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Old 09-18-2014, 08:42 AM   #1
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Slide-Out Drifting Troubleshooting

Talked with Equalizer Systems (ES) once and having problems getting them on the line; perhaps you can help me. ES suggested that I swap a good solenoid valve with the Slide having the problem. If drifting stops, then the valve is the problem. If not, then it probably is the hydraulic piston.

Can anyone give me some instructions on how to remove the a solenoid valve?

I also found that the always exposed portion of the piston on the drifting slide is very badly rusted and deeply pitted. The white plastic block to prevent the piston from touching the timing shaft, shows some wear on it. I have a 2012 390BH; and all the other slide piston isn't rusted. I suspect a bad plating job on the rusted piston. There is also a Anti-Creep valve on each cylinder. Do not know if this could be the problem.

A secondary problem is that the safety slide locking bars do not work when put on top of the slide, since it is the bottom that kicks out. When trying to put the safety bar at the bottom, there just isn't a good enough strong flange to put the bar's foot against.

Any help would be appreciated
Hank



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Old 09-18-2014, 09:15 AM   #2
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I like some others on here have had slide creep in the past. I ended up replacing the anti-creep valve, at Equalizers recommendation. I believe that Marty (Mmnsc) replaced his anti-creep valve and his hydraulic pump. I ended up burning my hydraulic pump out trying to get the air out of my system by continually opening and closing the slide and leaving the pump running for 10 seconds after each cycle. Since replacing the pump, anti-creep valve and using the slide lock for a few months, the "creep" has gone away. I did put the locks on both ends of the slide at the bottom. When I initially got my unit, I noticed that the molding on the slide was loose. I had the dealer reinforce it. I am not sure how they did that though. Hope that helps. Also you can download the installation manual for the hydraulic pump at the Equalizer website. Craig


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Old 09-18-2014, 09:39 AM   #3
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I don't know who you talked to at Equalizer but I dealt exclusively with Jamie Lehman at extenion 339. He was most knowledgable about the slide on the 390 bh. I finally had to have the cylindar changed after having the anti creep valve changed first. The replacement cylindar is a larger cylinder than the original cylinder. Also what made the original cylinder go bad is that paint on the shaft destroyed the seal on the cylinder allowing pressure blow by and eventual creeping. I think you will not get the issue resolved until you change to the upgraded larger replacement cylinder. Good luck and i hope this helps


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Old 09-18-2014, 06:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mmnsc View Post
I don't know who you talked to at Equalizer but I dealt exclusively with Jamie Lehman at extenion 339. He was most knowledgable about the slide on the 390 bh. I finally had to have the cylindar changed after having the anti creep valve changed first. The replacement cylindar is a larger cylinder than the original cylinder. Also what made the original cylinder go bad is that paint on the shaft destroyed the seal on the cylinder allowing pressure blow by and eventual creeping. I think you will not get the issue resolved until you change to the upgraded larger replacement cylinder. Good luck and i hope this helps


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I had a day of frustration. I removed one of the two slide's solenoid and the valve, to only find the valve's o-ring in two halves. Jamie was indeed great help. Fixed the valve to find It was the slide that doesn't creep. I feel along with Jamie, that the hydraulic cylinder will need replacing. I feel that what made the cylinder go is a prying action that a plastic block places on the cylinder's. Piston during part of the travel. The plastic block is meant to keep the piston rod from rubbing on on the timing shaft. Something just isn't right there. Thanks for the replies.

Hank


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