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Old 03-04-2015, 08:45 PM   #11
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I see you are from Bush, if the suggestions above don't help, you can bring it to Berryland in Hammond. That's where I bought mine and they have done good by me so far.
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:33 AM   #12
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Silver; great photos and fixture that you built. I'd like to warn that anyone tightening the bolts, that it is very easy to strip the threads of the motor's housing; which is either aluminum or pot metal. Because the bolts cannot be torqued down hard, they loosen and thus the problem. I suggest that Loctite Blue be used on the bolt threads.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:09 PM   #13
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Thanks IR-V. Mine loosened three times over 5 years even with the lock tit blue. The last time it was hanging and while driving I suspect the bouncing of the motor cracked the pot metal of the housing. When I went to tighten the ear snapped right off. The motor weighs a lot to be hanging by those pot metal ears. In any event as the motor still worked I hated to pay big bucks for a new one. JB Weld to repair pot metal housing and bracket have been in place for a year and knock wood still working.
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Old 03-05-2015, 02:18 PM   #14
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Silver; looks like your fix will last.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:54 AM   #15
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Where is the anti creep valve located?
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:10 PM   #16
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Ours made a bang sounds twice, got in there and found the bolts loose, tighted them down snug and hopes that solves it.
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Old 03-11-2015, 04:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmgllt View Post
Where is the anti creep valve located?
I found these files in my notes. Perhaps they will help. Let us know what you find.
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File Type: pdf Slide- Out Drifting Troubleshooting 12-2010.pdf (468.4 KB, 80 views)
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Old 03-20-2015, 04:58 PM   #18
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Boy talk about a poor design!
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Old 03-20-2015, 05:01 PM   #19
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Sliver,
From bottom to top what it the thickness. Bottom of motor to the floor?
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