Solar Battery Tender for Berkshire

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by Mmnsc

The house batteries will go dead even when you use the battery cut off switch UNLESS you turn off the inverter on the Magnum controller inside the Motorhome

Yup, learned that one the hard way . . .
I think what formerFR was saying is there is still a small parasitic draw on the house batteries, even when using the main battery disconnect switch. That's what I was hoping to address in a quick and easy way (aka pipedream . . .)

[formerFR]

the term 'disconnect switch' is really a misnomer, since it's purpose is really as a 'salesman's' switch...in order to allow one to easily turn off all lights and 12v devices that might be left on when showing the coach on the lot, or easily turn 'everything' on as they enter - have you ever tried to find all the light switches in a new coach or one you don't know much about? It's crazy where they put them - so a single 'switch' at the door is a simple way to take care of that.

Yes, there will always be things that demand 12v power in order to save memory, or provide safety, etc., so it's always possible to have some draining of the house batteries over time. A true disconnect switch at the batteries is the only real way to combat this, and some coaches come with it, as well as one for the chassis batteries. Mine does not, so I just remove the NEG main battery cable, but, that's rare, since I have some solar that keeps the batteries from falling too low. I've never had any issue with my chassis batteries.

[Mmnsc]

Originally Posted by formerFR

the term 'disconnect switch' is really a misnomer, since it's purpose is really as a 'salesman's' switch...in order to allow one to easily turn off all lights and 12v devices that might be left on when showing the coach on the lot, or easily turn 'everything' on as they enter - have you ever tried to find all the light switches in a new coach or one you don't know much about? It's crazy where they put them - so a single 'switch' at the door is a simple way to take care of that.

Yes, there will always be things that demand 12v power in order to save memory, or provide safety, etc., so it's always possible to have some draining of the house batteries over time. A true disconnect switch at the batteries is the only real way to combat this, and some coaches come with it, as well as one for the chassis batteries. Mine does not, so I just remove the NEG main battery cable, but, that's rare, since I have some solar that keeps the batteries from falling too low. I've never had any issue with my chassis batteries.

Berkshires have a Battery Disconnect switch located on the side wall in the cabinet where the House Batteries are contained. The “salesman switch” at the front door is not effective in cutting off all power to the coach.
Even with the Battery Disconnect switch off in the battery compartment the inverter is still active unless you deliberately turn it off by pressing the button on the Magnum controller

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by Mmnsc

Even with the Battery Disconnect switch off in the battery compartment the inverter is still active unless you deliberately turn it off by pressing the button on the Magnum controller

This is correct.

My Berk has a schematic for the high Amp part of the 12V system including batteries on the inside of the house bank compartment door. (see below...the color markings are mine) It clearly shows the inverter directly connected to one end of the battery bank, with it's own large fuse, whereas the house feed is off the other end through it's own fuse and then the disconnect switch.

[formerFR]

what does your House battery disconnect switch look like? are you referring to the switch at the coach door, or a rotary switch in the battery bay?

I may be having an issue with mine... I’ve experienced recently the Inverter dropping out(turning itself off) after a little while, for no known reason. When turned it back on, it immediately goes back off, and sometimes also cause the 12v lights to flicker, or I even lose power to everything.
If I then push the ‘Store/Use’ switch to ‘Use’, nothing happens - its dead.

but, on shore power or generator, the Inverter passes thru power fine, and even if I’m on the engine Alternator while traveling, the Inverter works with no issues ...

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by formerFR

what does your House battery disconnect switch look like? are you referring to the switch at the coach door, or a rotary switch in the battery bay?

Speaking for myself, when I refer to the "main [house/chassis] battery disconnect switch", I'm referring to the rotary switch located inside the battery bay itself. The chassis battery version is a bit larger than the house battery version. The switches themselves have two positions: "On" (batteries connected) and "Off" (batteries disconnected).
I like the designation "salesman switch" for the mystery button of front by the front door step well.

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by Oscarvan

This is correct.

My Berk has a schematic for the high Amp part of the 12V system including batteries on the inside of the house bank compartment door. (see below...the color markings are mine) It clearly shows the inverter directly connected to one end of the battery bank, with it's own large fuse, whereas the house feed is off the other end through it's own fuse and then the disconnect switch.

Hmmmm, it's been a long time since my "150 Electronics Projects" kit I got for Christmas as a kid, so my schematic reading may be a little rusty, but looking at your chassis batteries hook up, shouldn't you be able to start the coach with the main chassis battery disconnect switch off? Or is it saying that the starter will always have power, but without power to the main distribution panel, there's no way for the ignition to "tell" the starter to "start" (even if it has power)? (Sorry to all the automotive purists out there for whom that last sentence was like fingernails down a chalkboard!!!)

Thanks for the schematic - very helpful . . .

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by GoneSouth10

Finally, with respect to " . . . several good days of overcast or rainy weather and you're right back to the same low battery problem" - Pffffftttttttt . . . it never rains in Southern California!!

Thanks formerFR, you've caused me to jinx myself! I put the solar on the roof yesterday to give it a try - and it's raining today in Southern California!!!!

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by formerFR

what does your House battery disconnect switch look like? are you referring to the switch at the coach door, or a rotary switch in the battery bay?

I may be having an issue with mine... I’ve experienced recently the Inverter dropping out(turning itself off) after a little while, for no known reason. When turned it back on, it immediately goes back off, and sometimes also cause the 12v lights to flicker, or I even lose power to everything.
If I then push the ‘Store/Use’ switch to ‘Use’, nothing happens - its dead.

but, on shore power or generator, the Inverter passes thru power fine, and even if I’m on the engine Alternator while traveling, the Inverter works with no issues ...

Sounds like your house batteries are discharged, or possibly there's a bad ground. On shore power or generator the 120V passes through the inverter to it's respective circuits, no 12V required. When the engine is running the alternator charges the chassis bank and then the house bank which then at the same time provides 12V to the inverter to make 120V for it's circuits. When none of the above are present the only source of energy for the inverter is the house bank. You may want to take a look at the remote panel and see what the voltage is at that point. I think the inverter cuts out at 11V or so...... The fact that your (house) lights flicker confirms this scenario. By themselves they will work longer as the LED's have broader voltage band where they will work.

Time to check out the house bank.

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by GoneSouth10

Or is it saying that the starter will always have power, but without power to the main distribution panel, there's no way for the ignition to "tell" the starter to "start"

This.

There is always power to the starter solenoid which is a remotely controlled high amperage switch mounted on the starter. When you turn the ignition switch to start, a 12V "signal" goes to the solenoid which then closes it's high amperage switch and sends the power to the starter itself.

For the ignition switch to have power, or for that matter the variety of electronics needed to run this engine, the chassis battery switch needs to be on.

Running a fat high amperage cable to an equally heavy duty starter switch at the dash would be impractical.

[formerFR]

the Inverter is powered by the HOUSE batteries - nothing to do with the Chassis battery bank...

I’m beginning to think that it’s a ‘continuouse 12v Coil Solenoid’ that might be failing - I have Two: a White Rodgers and a Trombetta...both in the Inverter bay.

[GoneSouth10]

Originally Posted by Oscarvan

This.

There is always power to the starter solenoid which is a remotely controlled high amperage switch mounted on the starter. When you turn the ignition switch to start, a 12V "signal" goes to the solenoid which then closes it's high amperage switch and sends the power to the starter itself.

For the ignition switch to have power, or for that matter the variety of electronics needed to run this engine, the chassis battery switch needs to be on.

Running a fat high amperage cable to an equally heavy duty starter switch at the dash would be impractical.

Roger that - thanks for the info. That was my suspicion, but nice to get confirmation from someone who actually knows!

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by formerFR

the Inverter is powered by the HOUSE batteries - nothing to do with the Chassis battery bank...

Yeah, I fixed that but you beat me to it.... Senior moment.

[Oscarvan]

Originally Posted by formerFR

I’m beginning to think that it’s a ‘continuouse 12v Coil Solenoid’ that might be failing - I have Two: a White Rodgers and a Trombetta...both in the Inverter bay.

NOTE TO OTHERS, we are not talking about a BERK here. Don't get confused.

As to what you have..... Maybe Thor provides a schematic? If there is a solenoid type shutoff that's failing (similar to our salesman switches) the ceiling lights would not be on, right?

As far as "thinking" what's failing.... a multi meter would clear that up in short order.