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Old 06-10-2012, 12:49 AM   #1
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Speaker Replacement

Purchased a 2013 Berkshire 390BH about two weeks ago and the coach speakers are horrible. Has anyone replaced their coach speakers? If so, what type (model) did you replace them with?
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:18 AM   #2
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I had the same opinion with my 2011 390BH and swapped mine out with Infinity Reference 3032cf 3-1/2" 2-way speakers. There are no 2" speakers (size of the stock ones I had) that will plug and play - the Infinity's were the closest I could find that I could make fit (a key factor is how shallow the mounting area in the roof is). I had to dremel out the ceiling area where they mount to get them to fit and I stil have to make speaker grills, but they sound 100% better. I also added a 10" JL Audio 10W1v2-4 subwoofer and sub amp, which also made a huge difference and fit neatly in a premade enclosure under the couch. I actually enjoy listening to it now, whereas before I had to turn it off after a few minutes. :-) A good stereo shop can do all the things I just mentioned including custom mounting, which will save you a bunch of time and headache.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:45 PM   #3
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Thanks Motowood - I found the same speakers on Crutchfiled's website.

Infinity Reference 3032cf 3-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com

I plan to order them once I return from our maiden voyage in two weeks. What other changes have you made to your 390BH?

I thought about adding the Winegard RoadTrip Satellite, but I am afraid that the local Camping World may mess something up.

Once again, thanks for your help.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:18 AM   #4
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I've done a number of mods to my coach, many of which I am sure I have forgotten by now. :-) Most are just for my personal preference, plus a few fixes. What I can remember:

- Replaced ceiling speakers
- Added sub & amp
- Replaced B&W cameras w/ color
- Added solar charging system
- Added satellite (Winegard RoadTrip MiniMax, though I kinda wish I got the Winegard TRAV'LER SK-3005 since HD on DirecTV is more important than in-motion, especially since most the TV's are not really visible or controllable when driving anyway)
- Added power and air connections in "tool bay" (first bay, with shelves, on passenger side)
- Added trailer brake
- Replaced water pump (and have spare on hand)
- Increased battery capacity 50%+
- Replaced master TV with unit having built-in DVD
- Replaced entertainment receiver w/better unit + DVD
- Added iPod/iPhone interface to in-dash receiver
- Fixed squeaky door
- Sealed open sewer connection at W/D unit in rear
- Added venturi-style vent caps
- Added 3rd air conditioner
- Converted bath fan to fantastic fan w/remote
- Added on/off valve to shower head
- Added felt on top of sliding door retainers to quiet slides and reduce sawdust
- Replaced master matress w/good memory foam
- Permanently fixed dinette table mouting bracket (liked to come loose where it attaches to table)
- Replace all interior and bay lights with LED bulbs
- Added power surge protection system
- Fixed dash A/C
- Fixed engine coolant leak (loose hose)
- etc....
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:16 AM   #5
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A couple questions, Moto:
1. Where did they put the 3rd AC? FR was giving my dealer grief about locating my 3rd unit.
2. How did you fix the dinette table mount connection? I was thinking of adding toothpick wood into the existing holes and doubling the number of attachment screws.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:39 AM   #6
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I had the 3rd AC mounted where the existing ceiling vent/fan was in the kitchen area. No new holes, though the tech had to run power and control cables. The control might be slaved off the front AC unit, though it shows up as Zone 3 on the thermostat. He might have able to pull power from the front AC as well. He did the calcs and the 8K generator can support all 3 plus microwave, etc just fine.

For the dinette top mounting screws, I tried everything including adding wood, various glues, etc. None worked. My current solution, which apears to be permanent, was to put in longer screws at all available holes in both plates under the tabletop. The factory screws are only long enough to go into the soft wood laminate layer underneath - the screws I replaced them with go into the MDF that the tabletop is glued to (pilot holes needed), which is a much stronger material. I am confident this finally solved the problem.
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:44 PM   #7
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I'm working on the table now. What a poorly built table. I will put longer screws with wood glue and also cut the trim piece down. My two year old grandson handed it to me in the morning telling me broken grandpa. Of course a two year old should not be able two rip of a wood trim piece that is designed for a kids sleep area.
I'm wondering about the need to add a third A/C unit. We had temps in the upper 80 and had no problem keeping up. We do plan to travel south and west with this MH will we have issues? Why did you add a unit instead of replacing the front with a larger unit? Not questioning you just wanting your experience.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:11 PM   #8
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The master cools fine, but when we camp in the desert in the direct sun, the front AC could only bring temps down 8-10 degrees. With the add'l unit, they can pull it down 20 or so. If you have any kind of shade to work with it's not bad. It's expensive, so I'd suggest waiting until you think you need it.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:07 PM   #9
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I'll just plan on using longer screws from the start then. I had tightened the existing screws and that lasted about 3 days!
I too had my third AC installed in the existing exhaust vent slot. They reprogrammed the control so that the systems are 1,2,3 from front to rear. I plan on having the vent re-installed in the roof a little more toward the passenger side. Apparently there is a vent requirement due to the presence of the stovetop inside the RV. I also use it to help circulate air on cool but calm days.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:09 PM   #10
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The 3rd AC has helped greatly in the South. I went with a 3rd AC (15k btu) because you get an increased capacity of 15k instead of 1.5k.
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