The results were impressive. I also added wiring such that the step light would go on when the Aisle switch or the Porch switch was on. The light also comes on normally when the step is out and the Step switch on. With the Step switch off, the light doesn't come on, but buy adding control from the Aisle and Porch, it gives one choices.
I thought that that the LED conversion might be something everyone can consider, even without the extra functionality.
__________________
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
Way to go Hank.
Did you end up using that 'purple' wire to the control box?
I decided to go LED strip and waiting on a part to show up.
But since we are on the road, I'm not sure when I'll get it finished.
Dan, I did not use the purple wire, only the black. I have a LED strip and may add it on later to augment the step light. I will first have to live with what I got before doing that, though.
__________________
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
Dan the Aisle light switch has an open wire at the door handle. The clear plastic one. While you have the handle off you can add the led bulb there and make a splice to continue the wire to the step light.
Dan the Aisle light switch has an open wire at the door handle. The clear plastic one. While you have the handle off you can add the led bulb there and make a splice to continue the wire to the step light.
I just didn't know how to get the wire from there to the step. Continue down through the wall?
My main problem is probably that I'm parked in a CG's and can't crawl up under very far.
I'll figure it out.
Hank, Looks great can you post the wiring diagram for your setup?
Wayne
If you like to tinker, this mod. is a labor of love. The most difficult job was finding a way to get the wire from the stairway switch bank. I found a way
which will eliminate that part for you.
With the generator pulled out and the switch bank unloosened from the wall, I drilled a 1/4" hole as shown in the pic. from the front of the MH. It is 10" up and in line with the next to top stair riser (which can be seen from the front). There is two layers of sheet metal separated by foam. Therefore, the drill bit goes about 2 1/2" until you see it on the inside. I used tubing to insulate the wire and then flexible plastic conduit for the run.
Only one wire needs to be run for two switches. See the schematic. The LED light requires two holes and spacers for its wires, or a third middle 3/8" hole.
All the sources for the light require a diode and all the diode cathodes are tied together (the stripe end of the diode). You can run one or multiple lights.
__________________
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH
Very nice drawing and explanation. Can I skip installing the diodes, and just wire the position light common to the lighted handle? (aisle light, I think).
Allen
P.S: Even though I know that a diode is a one-way "valve" for electrons, it's still a challenging concept for a chemical engineer
Very nice drawing and explanation. Can I skip installing the diodes, and just wire the position light common to the lighted handle? (aisle light, I think).
Allen
P.S: Even though I know that a diode is a one-way "valve" for electrons, it's still a challenging concept for a chemical engineer
Allen - If you have one source for the light, no diode (or one-way valve for mechanical geeks) is necessary. If you have two or more sources controlling a light, there should be a diode in series with each source. Sometimes, depending upon the electrical make-up of the source (for example a transistor output) you can skip one diode. But not knowing the make-up of the source, a diode would be best on all multiple sources to the light.
__________________
Gale & Hank- 2012 Berkshire 390BH