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Old 04-08-2015, 10:10 AM   #1
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Storage Door Plunger

After two and one half years of being careful when closing the storage doors, I have now managed to break two of the plastic plungers which lock the doors. One on the side opening door where the slide-out tray is located, and another on an upward swinging door where the batteries are stored. I have ordered several new plungers with cable for replacement. I was wondering if anyone out there has replaced any of these before. Any tips or tricks on how to install them would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:14 AM   #2
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I remember reading where a poster here replaced one and it seems that he had quite a time with it. If I remember correctly, he had to bend the bottom of the door slightly in order to get the new latches in. If I get a chance, I will do a search and see what I can find.
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:12 AM   #3
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Maybe this thread will help with your latch replacement.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ken-36869.html
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:27 AM   #4
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When at Goshen rally, had two replaced, both downwards ones, the tech had to gently bend the bottom curve with a very wide set of plyers and them bend back.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:26 PM   #5
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I read the previous thread on the door latches. Doesn't help much, other than the post that said the FR tech actually had to "slightly" bend the door skin and then bend it back. I really can't believe that Forest River would; 1. Use plastic plungers in the first place. They should be aluminum. and 2. Design the lower or downward latches so that the curved door skin obstructs the removal and replacement of them. Unbelievable!
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Old 04-08-2015, 07:06 PM   #6
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I've replaced the latch on the wet bay on my 2013 390RB. Andy at FR said he thought I would have to bend the bottom of the door but I managed to get it out without bending anything except the metal rod on the plunger. Had to bend the new one slightly too in order to get it back in. I actually have in my possession two replacement latches with metal plungers rather than plastic. I plan on giving those a try next time I have a failure.
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Old 04-09-2015, 07:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgewant View Post
I've replaced the latch on the wet bay on my 2013 390RB. Andy at FR said he thought I would have to bend the bottom of the door but I managed to get it out without bending anything except the metal rod on the plunger. Had to bend the new one slightly too in order to get it back in. I actually have in my possession two replacement latches with metal plungers rather than plastic. I plan on giving those a try next time I have a failure.
Where did you get the metal plungers?
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:52 AM   #8
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When at Goshen rally, had two replaced, both downwards ones, the tech had to gently bend the bottom curve with a very wide set of plyers and them bend back.
Not sure of this, but I looked at the back of my doors on the bottom latches. It appears to me that one could cut a small amount of metal (the back of the door about one inch square) with something like a Dremel tool (small cut off type of wheel).

Then you could place a small piece of aluminum stock over the cut out area after the latch was replaced.

Not sure if this is do-able, but if I ever (when??) break a lower one, this what I plan to attempt. I've already replaced two of the upper ones.

Why in hell they don't offer a "deluxe" latch where the plunger is made of metal instead of plastic is beyond my comprehension.

I've actually thought of taking a plastic one to a metal shop and having some made up, so as to fix the problem once and for all.

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Old 04-09-2015, 12:34 PM   #9
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I found this place in the recent FMCA magazine. It is called RB Machining/RV Division. They advertise replacement latches with aluminum plungers. It states he has new and rebuilt kits for Fleetwood, Winnebago, Tiffin, Monaco, and Tri-Mark. I believe someone said all of our latches are made by Tri-Mark. Their phone is 661-274-1966. Web site is
www.motorhomelatches.com . Will call and check them out. Maybe they have aluminum replacements for these plastic units. If I'm going to have to replace them, it may as well be with a aluminum plunger that will not break again.
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Old 04-09-2015, 01:45 PM   #10
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Home page :: Motorhome compartment latches guaranteed for life They have them with aluminum plungers.
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Old 04-09-2015, 02:40 PM   #11
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"Not sure of this, but I looked at the back of my doors on the bottom latches. It appears to me that one could cut a small amount of metal (the back of the door about one inch square) with something like a Dremel tool (small cut off type of wheel)." Seems like a great idea for replacement, but wouldn't it give easy access for a thief to easily open the compartment with the door closed?


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Old 04-09-2015, 08:58 PM   #12
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Thanks for the info... I was told that metal ones are not available "off the shelf". I will be changing all my plastic ones as they fail.

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Old 04-12-2015, 02:17 PM   #13
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Replace one of mine. Maybe this will help.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ad.php?t=48916




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Old 04-15-2015, 11:30 AM   #14
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A final note and information on this topic. I received the new plungers from Forest River. Problem is, they have mounting brackets with 3 inch on center mounting holes. The plungers on my coach have 2 inch on center mounting holes. Apparently, the 2 inch are no longer available. The best way to try and use these new plungers, is to drill two new holes in the mounting bracket so the holes are 2 inch on center. That certainly is easier than trying to drill new holes in the door frame, especially when you are working on the lower latches which are covered by the curved door skin. Hopefully this will work. The challenge is still getting the old plunger out, and the new one in without damaging the curves door skin.


Also, I contacted RB Machining/RV Division, motorhomelatches.com and they tell me that the latches for Winnebago are the best match for our Tri-Mark latches. They come with four holes in the mounting bracket, both 2 inch and 3 inch. However, they do not come with new cables. You must reuse your old cable, or find a replacement on your own. Price is $16 each for the aluminum plunger.


Hope this helps anyone else faced with replacement issues.
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