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Old 08-07-2012, 07:23 PM   #11
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Just to confirm.

What SCALE are you using on your meter? It should be one of the ones that has a little "earphone" symbol on it. This meter has only 3 OHM ranges (200 OHMS; 2000 OHMS and 20K (20,000) OHMS) for example. The next one counterclockwise from the Ohms scales is the diode continuity check setting and is not the one you should be using for this test.

Are there one or two ears on your heating element?

You should be measuring the ohms between the ears (provided there are two there) NOT between one ear and chassis ground.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:39 PM   #12
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OHMS or 'Little earphones' setting is 200k.
Water heater has 2 ears or terminals where the wires connect to it.
With one wire attached to the heater element I get a reading of 1. When I switch the ear the red and black probes touch I get -49.5.
When I remove the wire (no wires attached to the heater element) I get the same readings. 1 and if I switch the ear the red and black probes touch I get -49.5
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmmar View Post
OHMS or 'Little earphones' setting is 200k.
Water heater has 2 ears or terminals where the wires connect to it.
With one wire attached to the heater element I get a reading of 1. When I switch the ear the red and black probes touch I get -49.5.
When I remove the wire (no wires attached to the heater element) I get the same readings. 1 and if I switch the ear the red and black probes touch I get -49.5
WAY to high. Move it to 200 ohms. You are looking for 14 ohms.

On a 200K scale 14 ohms will look like a dead short.

When the black and read probes touch each other you get -49.5 right?
You need to adjust your zero.
When the probes are touching each other they should read zero.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:54 PM   #14
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OK- now I get the reading of 1 no matter how I test it. Looks like I will be looking for a new heater element.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:00 PM   #15
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OK- now I get the reading of 1 no matter how I test it. Looks like I will be looking for a new heater element.
This is on the 200 ohm setting?
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #16
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Yes - 200 ohm. Reading of 1 comes up when I turn the meter on. When I touch the probes together, it goes to 0 (zero).

As I said, I get a reading of 1 no matter how I check.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #17
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Maybe fuse is out on meter from 1st test. Herk you will get 120 VAC across element if it is open, very simple test.
Yes, I see that. You will see the 120 volts potential whether the heater element is open or shorted. No?

You are just measuring the voltage potential across those two points. If you disconnect the wires from the heating element completely and measure across the two disconnected wires it will still read 120 volts, I am thinking.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:11 PM   #18
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Now I'm really lost. How does checking across the disconnected wires tell me if the heating element is shot?
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:34 PM   #19
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Yes, I see that. You will see the 120 volts potential whether the heater element is open or shorted. No?

You are just measuring the voltage potential across those two points. If you disconnect the wires from the heating element completely and measure across the two disconnected wires it will still read 120 volts, I am thinking.
Sorta the first test was to establish power to the element.
Now with the "hot" hooked back up connect the meter on 200vac scale and measure the 2nd terminal to the wire to common. that will put meter in series with power supply and measure power thru the element. However if the 1st test shows 120 to the element, test is over, with power, no heat, change element. Sorry for the confusion, just taking one step at a time for the OP.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:15 PM   #20
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Now I'm really lost. How does checking across the disconnected wires tell me if the heating element is shot?
It doesn't. It just verified you have power or not.If you have power then you can move on to the eleement itself by testing it with an ohm meter.
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