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Old 10-03-2015, 11:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tnbendr View Post
Funny you should mention the portable heaters, we were thinking about that while walking around at Menards the other day. What size are the ones you have and do they draw much amps?
They typically draw 11- 15 amps each.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:48 PM   #12
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The rear furnace in our Georgetown did basically the same thing. We could hear the igniter, but it wouldn't light. It turned out to be a bad circuit board. It's been fine since the replacement. The technician said he's seen that particular board go bad several times. Had it replaced by a local tech under warranty after FR approval, but still awaiting reimbursement almost 3 months later. Good luck.
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Old 10-04-2015, 01:43 PM   #13
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So my heater has been working inconsistantly...work fine last night except it took a while of cold blowing before it got hot. After the initial run it work fine wrt the thermostat setting, except in the early morning hours it did not even try to start (inside temp was 59, thermo was set at 70). Now tonight it just blows cold again for a few minutes and then shuts off. I went outside to examine the exhaust and I can hear the igniter trying to light periodically, not constant. I have read a bunch of forums about heaters and only one pertaining to berks. Most of the others can evidently get access to theirs, but mine is in the corner behind the fireplace, so I can't see where the board or igniter are. Any thoughts?
You might want to read this thread:

Suburban furnace won't stay running

Most electric heaters are 1500 watt heaters and draw about 13 amps. You can't run two on the same circuit unless they have a high / low switch. Both would have to be set on low, which is normally 750 watts, so the two together would draw 1500 watts. You may need to do this at night to add heat to the bedroom and still have some heat in the living area.

Look and see if you have two 15 amp receptacle circuits. If so you can run two on high but don't plan on running any thing else on those circuits. I like to run one on my kitchen circuit and shut it off when making coffee, or anything else that draws a lot of power.

Jim
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:02 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tnbendr View Post
So my heater has been working inconsistantly...work fine last night except it took a while of cold blowing before it got hot. After the initial run it work fine wrt the thermostat setting, except in the early morning hours it did not even try to start (inside temp was 59, thermo was set at 70). Now tonight it just blows cold again for a few minutes and then shuts off. I went outside to examine the exhaust and I can hear the igniter trying to light periodically, not constant. I have read a bunch of forums about heaters and only one pertaining to berks. Most of the others can evidently get access to theirs, but mine is in the corner behind the fireplace, so I can't see where the board or igniter are. Any thoughts?
Hi I believe that the problem is a proof of ignition or flame. The electronic ignition system looks for a small mil volts that is passed through the flame to prove that the LP gas has ignited thermocouples are not used any more with the electronic systems. You may have a bad electronic ignition control board or the flame or gas is not in full contact with the ignition/flame rod causing a week signal through the flame or no ignition. The control board will make 3 attempts to light the burner and then lock out the furnace controls. This can be reset by tuning the furnace off and then back on. Spiders love to build nest around LP burners for some reason and can cause the electronics to short out through the webs.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:38 PM   #15
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Hi I believe that the problem is a proof of ignition or flame. The electronic ignition system looks for a small mil volts that is passed through the flame to prove that the LP gas has ignited thermocouples are not used any more with the electronic systems. You may have a bad electronic ignition control board or the flame or gas is not in full contact with the ignition/flame rod causing a week signal through the flame or no ignition. The control board will make 3 attempts to light the burner and then lock out the furnace controls. This can be reset by tuning the furnace off and then back on. Spiders love to build nest around LP burners for some reason and can cause the electronics to short out through the webs.

Hope this helps Tim
Unfortunately you are right. Thermocouples are not in use on the new electronic systems. You can't light them with a match and a piece of steel wool or sandpaper can't fix the problem any more.

Two days ago I turned the heat on in my house. It blew fine but all cold air. Great, sense my surgery I can't get into the basement to look at the furnace so called my HVAC guy. A strange call because I taught him part of what he knows, oh well. He came out and I expected to have him replace the main board. He was here two minutes and came back upstairs. All he did was push a reset button and it is running fine now.

So what is better? I expected a big bill for a board but lucked out this time. But in my trailer I would take the old way any time. I doubt if there is a reset button on our trailers boards, an if there is we need to tear the whole thing apart to get to it. Why couldn't it be like the hw burner?

Jim
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by TimVWulp View Post
Hi I believe that the problem is a proof of ignition or flame. The electronic ignition system looks for a small mil volts that is passed through the flame to prove that the LP gas has ignited thermocouples are not used any more with the electronic systems. You may have a bad electronic ignition control board or the flame or gas is not in full contact with the ignition/flame rod causing a week signal through the flame or no ignition. The control board will make 3 attempts to light the burner and then lock out the furnace controls. This can be reset by tuning the furnace off and then back on. Spiders love to build nest around LP burners for some reason and can cause the electronics to short out through the webs.

Hope this helps Tim
That could explain the inconsistency, because it works fine and then doesn't. It's working right now.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:23 PM   #17
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I bought two tall Bionaire 1500 watt heaters. I have no idea what Amps they draw but they will not run on the same circuit. They have a safety switch on the bottom so tipping over is not a safety concern. I think I bought them at Costco.

Attachment 90599
Wow those are huge heaters! I was thinking of something smaller. On a good note, we're sitting hear looking at the Mackinac Bridge through our picture window and the heater is working!
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:37 PM   #18
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I have been about to reply to your thread for hours, then I read what other excellent posters have written and I can't add a thing that might help. We left your area a few days ago, near Grand Rapids tonight and in Elkhart tomorrow for a plant tour. Hope you can get it working before winter sets in, good thing we have common units and parts are easy to come by.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:50 PM   #19
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Talking heat

We use the Heat pump from the A/C. It doesn't heat the compartments down under but if that cold I turn on the heat switch for the water and holding tanks. Works fine and a lot less propane.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:28 PM   #20
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I have been about to reply to your thread for hours, then I read what other excellent posters have written and I can't add a thing that might help. We left your area a few days ago, near Grand Rapids tonight and in Elkhart tomorrow for a plant tour. Hope you can get it working before winter sets in, good thing we have common units and parts are easy to come by.

We are at Hidden Ridge in GR.
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