Trouble Staying Warm?

[rvdrmin]

Had our '13 360QL-40 out this weekend w/ outside temps of 40 degrees. Set inside temps on AUTO 70 degrees in both zones, but it never warmed up above 62 on monitor. Front portion of coach the coldest, but airflow from heat pumps didn't' move much air at all. Anybody have same experience or have ideas for us?

[DanielJ]

It would seem to me that 40 degrees is getting borderline for effectiveness of a heat pump. I've seen 37 degrees given as a lower limit before. I would suggest using the furnace rather than the heat pumps at that temperature.

I was camping in CT over Easter in our 2008 390TS. I ran the heat pumps during the day but switched to furnace at night.

[NO3putt]

Our heat pumps don't work very well when it gets down near 40 either. We have a small electric heater we use to take the chill off. Use furnace when it get's cold.

[rvdrmin]

That makes sense now. Like the idea of small ceramic heater and using the furnaces. Sure was windy too, but that's Michigan in the spring!

[RoadTrip]

I know this answer!!! Finally - my months of experience will come in handy!

A front screen thing (reflectix). That's the answer.

I know you were asking about the heat pumps and wanting to see about the efficiency of that type of heat....but this one mod - i know there's a term for what they are, but this changed the temp of our coach within minutes. We have used this front thermal break several times, but this past weekend it was obvious the difference just that one item made.

First night of camping, we were cold. About high 30's/low 40s outside temp overnight. Couldn't keep the camper comfy. Second night (same temps), we installed this thermal break around the front cab, and within 5 minutes had the camper toasty.

It was weird how well and how fast this worked (and clearly not air tight), but all the other vent covers and window covers were the same from night one to night two. The front cover was the only difference.

Btw - anyone know what this is called? It has to have a name b/c our camper came equipped with built-in velcro tabs to attach one.

Here's the pics
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...dyi-34074.html

[SabreDoc]

We put an electric mattress pad from Wal-Mart on our queen bed in our 5er and it's made all the difference. It has dual-zone heating so we both have our comfort zones. Best camper addition we've made so far.
Doc

[EJM4]

Our 2013 is only equipped with a heat pump in the front unit.


We have used the unit in 20 degree weather and use the propane furnances if boondocking and no problem keeping the coach 70 inside.

If we have electric we will normally run one furnace and an electric heater if below 30.

[hotshott]

Originally Posted by rvdrmin

Had our '13 360QL-40 out this weekend w/ outside temps of 40 degrees. Set inside temps on AUTO 70 degrees in both zones, but it never warmed up above 62 on monitor. Front portion of coach the coldest, but airflow from heat pumps didn't' move much air at all. Anybody have same experience or have ideas for us?

1 furnace/2 zones??? In line duct louvers are not functioning properly. Or could be obstructed. How is the air flow?? Do you have a propane furnace? The main trunk line from my furnace to the duct work was packed full of plastic from the appliance installation. As a result I got a 600.00 dollar rv cover from the dealer. I noticed this while the Artic package was being installed and I just happened to show up to inspect the job.

[rvdrmin]

Originally Posted by hotshott

1 furnace/2 zones??? In line duct louvers are not functioning properly. Or could be obstructed. How is the air flow?? Do you have a propane furnace? The main trunk line from my furnace to the duct work was packed full of plastic from the appliance installation. As a result I got a 600.00 dollar rv cover from the dealer. I noticed this while the Artic package was being installed and I just happened to show up to inspect the job.

Thanks didn't check ducts. I have 2 furnaces w/heat pump in front. Do you mean ducts in the floor from furnace. Only felt air from ceiling vents from the heat pump. Just wasn't very much so that might be something to check..a blockage?

[frankatp]

Our 2013 Berk has a heat pump on the front and two furnaces. Our first trip was over Christmas. It was 25 degrees with a wind chill of 8. Nothing kept us warm including closing all the slides up. The heat is just inadequate for that size coach (40'). We ended up buying some ceramic heaters. They seem to make all the difference. Good luck and happy camping. Frank

[Phil57]

What's with two furnaces. I have one and a heat pump. I have the RB model. Any one with the RB have two?

[rvdrmin]

Originally Posted by rvdrmin

Thanks didn't check ducts. I have 2 furnaces w/heat pump in front. Do you mean ducts in the floor from furnace. Only felt air from ceiling vents from the heat pump. Just wasn't very much so that might be something to check..a blockage?

Confirm 2furnaces -1under cook top 1-in toilet room. The front furnace blows air down to floor through 2slots cut under cabinets no duct work in floor to move air across to sofa side of salon or towards the front. Rear furnace has vents to bedroom & bath hall area mounted in walls to direct the air. Also found outside rubber strip seal mounted under full length of kitchen slide poorly installed with a 1/2 inch air gap running about 6 inches letting major heat outside and cold air in when slide extended. Should be an easy fix before next trip.

[frankatp]

Morning,
We just had the slide seal replaced under our bedroom slide out. Same thing. Big gap underneath. They did a bang up job fixing it. Frank

[frankatp]

Morning Phil,
We have the FL390 and it came with 2 furnaces plus the option of running the heat pump first to save gas. Frank

[edgewant]

rvdrmin:

I'm considering reworking the wiper seal under my kitchen slide. It has a very loose fit and is probably leaking. What kind of fix did you make? I am considering removing and then re-installing the existing seal. I think if I mount it about 3/4" higher it will make much better contact with the bottom of the slide. But if you have a better solution would like to hear it.

Thanks

[rvdrmin]

Originally Posted by edgewant

rvdrmin:

I'm considering reworking the wiper seal under my kitchen slide. It has a very loose fit and is probably leaking. What kind of fix did you make? I am considering removing and then re-installing the existing seal. I think if I mount it about 3/4" higher it will make much better contact with the bottom of the slide. But if you have a better solution would like to hear it.

Thanks

Thanks for your reply! Just got my RV back from dealer fix. They reinstalled bottom seal but not high enough so still slight air gaps. I'll take off myself and reattach higher with more pressure on the bottom slider surface. Make sure screws are inserted in different holes in the rubber strip & in wood frame along bottom base. Consider filling old screw holes with light silicon caulking. My thoughts.

[edgewant]

Moved mine up about 3/4". Used the same holes in strip. Filled holes from original installation with a JB Weld Quiksteel epoxy. Sanded and repainted. Can't tell where it was originally. Makes much better contact with bottom of slide. I guess if I ever have difficulty heating or cooling the MH this is the first area I will check for leakage.

[Joker]

That fix should improve gross leakage if air, but it is still a thin rubber barrier for preventing conduction/radiation. You may also consider something like a "draft dodger" (a cloth roll thong) to wedge under the kitchen slide cabinets when you are parked.

I have a problem with the seam under the bunk slide. It somehow broke free and gets run over by the slide roller. Still mostly seals but doesn't look pretty and will probably break later this year.