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Old 05-02-2014, 12:10 PM   #11
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The FR Schematic and the SDC Schematics HERK provided, definitely apply
to a gas chassis, however I would check with FR to confirm their application
to a diesel chassis.

Gary
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:30 PM   #12
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I seem to see the same behavior that Boohoo does, and what SuperChief is describing...that the alternator won't charge my house batteries. However, I read the cross post from the factory visit (in this thread), and I also read in the manual that the alternator would charge the house after the chassis battery while driving!

Now I'm going to have to dig into the PDFs posted just above me to see if mine is installed/working correctly. Something is certainly seeming to not charge the batteries, or to drain them. I just parked from driving most if the day, and with everything off, my batts show 12.4 volts. That should be higher, imo.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by chesterhull View Post
I just parked from driving most if the day, and with everything off, my batts show 12.4 volts. That should be higher, imo.
I agree....... When my batts are completely charged (from the Magnum inverter/charger) they are at 12.7+ volts. I would think that 8-9 hours from the chassis alternator would do the same thing.

And I'm still curious as to why my batts willl drop from 12.7+ to 12.2 after running the inverter for less than 4 hours at a 9 Amp draw. I previously thought that it was because my original batts were completely "cooked", but now I have 4 brand new Trojans and I still don't get the capacity I think I should.

Guess I'll try equalizing next, but since the batts are less than 3 months old, I doubt that will help.

Boowho??
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:55 PM   #14
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I had an issue with my 2014 berkshire chassis batteries being dead after my coach sat for a few weeks (plugged into a 50amp plug at my house). I brought it in to service and they had to call Randy to figure it out. Randy sent them the info and my isolator was bad. Like all the previous posts stated, your chassis batteries charge after the house batteries are full if plugged into shore power or gen set running and the opposite while the coach is running. This was what Randy told me over the phone and also told my service place. Hope this helps

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Old 05-03-2014, 11:50 AM   #15
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Been doing some research after Janson's post about the bad isolator. I looked on the internet for a picture of a isolator, so that I could find mine. Thought I could find it from the pictures that I saw. I just went out to my unit and found this;Click image for larger version

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ID:	51493. Nothing like I had seen on the internet (Fin looking things with three wire posts). I also looked at the wiring diagram on the inside of the door to the inverter compartment:Click image for larger version

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ID:	51495. Have I found the right thing? Also how do you test it to see if it ok? I had thought to test to see if my charging system worked both ways, was to discount shore power, start the engine and see if the alternator was sending a charge to the inverter/charger to charge the house batteries. My only concerns there: 1) how long will I have to run the engine before the alternator has the chassis batteries charged to start charging the house batteries, and 2) Does the alternator charge even pass through the inverter/charger when and if it charges the house batteries? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks! Craig
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:25 PM   #16
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Here is the Isolation Manager document: Click image for larger version

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ID:	51499Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByForest River Forums1399137840.553903.jpg
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ID:	51500. In looking at some Internet posts about problems that others were having with this system, they traced out the ignition wire from the Isolation Manager was not connected. Going to trace mine out.
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:52 PM   #17
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Craig,
Hopefully it will just be a matter of connecting the wire. Hope it is that simple and an easy fix.
Tom
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:54 AM   #18
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I don't think my house batteries get charged by the alternator at all. I think those two systems are separate unless you hold down that switch on the front panel.

Boohoo, on the expected output of the batteries...the voltage does not drop linearly with the total current output. So, you will see a voltage drop down into the design range with a smaller total amp-hr draw, then it will stay in the design voltage range for a long time, getting the majority of the rated amp-hrs, then the voltage will fall more dramatically when the batteries become rather depleted. I'm sure Herk will chime in if I'm not remembering this correctly (disclaimer: I am a trained civil engineer with limited electrical knowledge)
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:19 AM   #19
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You kids have everything. I did not get a electrical diagram with my 2008 39QS. I have to trace out the wiring and figure it out for my self. I also have two mystery fuses coming out of a black box in my Magnum compartment.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:20 AM   #20
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Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks! Craig
Check for corrosion under the terminals before you buy a new one.
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