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Old 05-04-2014, 01:46 PM   #31
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Herk,
you may be right. I went back to the Boo's first post in this theread an it does sound like he was bookdocking.
My mistake.
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:18 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by boowho View Post
And I'm still curious as to why my batts willl drop from 12.7+ to 12.2 after running the inverter for less than 4 hours at a 9 Amp draw. I previously thought that it was because my original batts were completely "cooked", but now I have 4 brand new Trojans and I still don't get the capacity I think I should.

Guess I'll try equalizing next, but since the batts are less than 3 months old, I doubt that will help.

Boowho??
Sorry Boo.
I missed the 4 Trojans.
What is the total AH of the bank?
Are they 4 12 volt or 4 six volt?

There has to be more than a 9 amp draw going on to deplete a 200 or more AH stack in 4 hours. Is your battery computer (ammeter) set up properly?

Here is how the Trimetric is hooked up (a shunt on the ground terminal).
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:36 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Sorry Boo.
I missed the 4 Trojans.
What is the total AH of the bank?
Are they 4 12 volt or 4 six volt?

There has to be more than a 9 amp draw going on to deplete a 200 or more AH stack in 4 hours. Is your battery computer (ammeter) set up properly?

Here is how the Trimetric is hooked up (a shunt on the ground terminal).
Total stack (4 x 6V) gives 440AH at 12 volts. Considering a max drawdown at 50%, I should have 220 AH available. My "battery computer" is part of the Magnum 1200 watt inverter; at least as I understand it.

The Magnum as a control panel with about a "zillion" settings. As far as I know, I don't have anything that looks like what your picture shows. I did find the BI-directional isolator relay that was mentioned before. It's directly behind the CHASSIS batteries.

Boowho??
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boowho View Post
Total stack (4 x 6V) gives 440AH at 12 volts. Considering a max drawdown at 50%, I should have 220 AH available. My "battery computer" is part of the Magnum 1200 watt inverter; at least as I understand it.

The Magnum as a control panel with about a "zillion" settings. As far as I know, I don't have anything that looks like what your picture shows. I did find the BI-directional isolator relay that was mentioned before. It's directly behind the CHASSIS batteries.

Boowho??
So you have 220AH 6 volt batteries, right?
What model Trojans do you have?

Could you give me an idea of the Magnum model number?
The Magnum may not be "seeing" all the amperage being drawn from the battery bank.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:46 PM   #35
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Unless you added a splint at the main battery cable when you installed the new monitor, you are only seeing the amperage used by the inverter. This will not account for any of the 12v power in the coach. That would include the water pump, lights or refrigerator (of its not a residential one). From my personal experience, when our inverter broke last year and wouldn't charge the batteries, a 6 amp battery charger wouldn't keep up with the drain during a normal days use.

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Old 05-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #36
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Bingo..I think Herk & Beipers nailed it... you are not measuring full coach loads is my guess OR you have negative wires that bypass any shunt you have for measurement.
My suggestion would be to duplicate your 9 amp load conditions...i.e. same readout on the Magnum from the same sources. Then clamp meter your main battery positive and take a reading. If it is significantly diffferent ...you might want to install a real battery monitor (like the trimetric) using a shunt off the negative terminal for ALL negative connections.
For you to be reading 12.2 you must have used somewhere around 220 a/h at 12V.
I assume the slides barely pulling in the next AM means you were still running a load below 12.2V when you woke up as even at 12.2 the slides should work normally.
Once things start slowing down you have to be getting around the 80% discharge area. On the evidence... getting to 12.2V in 3 hours means you were pulling somewhere around 50-70 amps...which sounds pretty absurd. Something weird is going on. I'd do a specific gravity check on each cell of your 4 batts to insure that a bad cell is not causeing problems. Next step would be to figure out the real amperage being used with a clamp meter or battery monitor.
Do you have the residential fridge...and was it running during this period? That's about the only thing I can think of that would normally pull down that kind of amperage if it was warm on start up and ran most of the time. I assume you weren't trying to run your A/C's off the batteries...as that would do it too.
A real puzzle.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
So you have 220AH 6 volt batteries, right?
What model Trojans do you have?

Could you give me an idea of the Magnum model number?
The Magnum may not be "seeing" all the amperage being drawn from the battery bank.
Trojan T-105 Plus....... all 4 replaced together about 3 months ago.

Inverter is Magnum MM-1212 with the optional "super" control panel.

I do understand about some of the current from the house batts NOT going thru the inverter, so without an additional "battery computer" I will not see current being drawn by "native" 12 volt devices. My fridge is not household there does not draw thru the inverter; however, it does have cooling fans that run whenever the cooling unit (propane) is running. What else may be pulling off the house batts is somewhat unpredictable. My mascerating toilet is 12 V and of course all the LED lights.

Further, even when the inverter is not furnishing 110, there is still some draw on the batts; in other words the inverter itself draws some current, even when idle.

I THINK I understand everything that's been said so far. Perhaps I did get a bat with a bad cell, even though they're basically brand new. I will test that tomorrow with a load tester. Electrolyte on all 12 cells is where it should be and has been since they were installed.

Boowho??
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:23 PM   #38
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boowho...I think you understand things well based on your post. Most inverters are wired to batts directly but not exclusively...i.e they are an add on to the existing 12V system and are NOT the only draw on the system. So...the 9 amp reading you are seeing on your 1212 represents ONLY the amps the 1212 is drawing and converting to 120V at that moment in time...as your PANEL manual clearly states. So...assuming your 1212 is working correctly...and your batteries are nearly dead in the AM ...either the batts have a defect or something is putting a BIG amp draw on them...bigger than anything you mention would. I would use a turkey baster rather than a load tester to test the batts...you want to find a CELL that is out of kilter with the rest of them. Take a specific gravity reading of EACH battery fill hole. This is what you need:

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Old 05-04-2014, 10:28 PM   #39
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Boo

Dumb question. Were you running your lp furnace when you experienced your low voltage? It looks like from your other posts you've experienced cool weather lately.

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Old 05-05-2014, 07:51 AM   #40
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normal appliance amp draws

Note how much power incandescent lights require. After the inverter, the furnace, then lights are the biggest near continuous DC draw in the camper.

At over 2 amps, a single dual bulb light fixture can kill a normal battery overnight. (I forgot one in the front storage compartment once and woke up freezing when we normally have plenty of power - 150 AH).

I have since converted everything to LED.
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