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Old 06-15-2016, 09:05 AM   #11
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Himcules - I also installed the Gen II myself. You nicely listed the uninstall and install procedure. I however would suggest to self installers to make the final plumbing connections with the heater partially hanging out and prior to the final screwing down and caulking. This makes life more easy.

Also as I reported in my post ................

Love my Girard Gen III Water Heater

that my gas line was soft copper tubing which required a 90 bend. I mentioned not to make that bend without a tubing bender; otherwise the tubing will kink in a flash if a bender was not used. I had and still have a problem with the control pad. The back supposedly can be pried off so that it can be screwed to a wall. With concern of breaking the control, I simply Velcro'ed it.

So what are you doing about painting the door?
Hank
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:45 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by I-RV View Post
Himcules - I also installed the Gen II myself. You nicely listed the uninstall and install procedure. I however would suggest to self installers to make the final plumbing connections with the heater partially hanging out and prior to the final screwing down and caulking. This makes life more easy.

Also as I reported in my post ................

Love my Girard Gen III Water Heater

that my gas line was soft copper tubing which required a 90 bend. I mentioned not to make that bend without a tubing bender; otherwise the tubing will kink in a flash if a bender was not used. I had and still have a problem with the control pad. The back supposedly can be pried off so that it can be screwed to a wall. With concern of breaking the control, I simply Velcro'ed it.

So what are you doing about painting the door?
Hank
I will eventually get the door painted. I'm saving the old door for the painters to match. I have a trip to take next week so no time to get that painted now... just need to get the all the broken water lines from the winter freeze fixed first.

I have not decided on the location where the control pad will go and I'm still waiting on my retailer/greenrv to get me that missing control pad.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:25 AM   #13
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still waiting on the gen 3 to arrive (should be here in 2 days). my gen 2 didn't survive this past winter although the rv was plugged in the entire winter. there's a crack in the heating tube pipes inside the heater itself.
Having the RV plugged in and even if the heaters are on will not insure that the heater will not freeze up. The water heater is in a precarious location; only a sheet metal panel from being outside. The best freeze prevention is either filling the lines with anti freeze or having them blown out.
Hank
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Old 06-18-2016, 02:13 PM   #14
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got the control panel in yesterday in the mail and installed it today.

so, here's a little tip. my gen2 has only 3 wires. a red, a black/white, and a white. when i hooked it up to my volt meter, the red is the positive 12v. both the black/white and white wires were ground. i initially connected the black/white to the heater and when i connected the control panel (both blue wires and doesn't matter which one goes to which), the control panel would not light up. when i opened the water heater and pulled off the access panel, i see a green led and a red led. meaning it had power. so i changed the black/white for the all white ground and everything works.

so for folks that have gen2 wiring like mine, the red is 12v+. the white is 12v-. the black/white is the controller from the gen2 remote dial knob.

you can verify this with a volt meter as the remote dial control knob's voltage will vary as you turn the knob (with the volt meter connected to the red and the black/white).

i ended up putting the control unit right outside the wood access panel under the closet/washer door. that way i could see it from the kitchen or bathroom to make sure it's running. no super long wires to fish around or fancy hiding of the wires.. just a short 12" run of wires so nothing binds. the wardrobe slides in just fine without hitting it so no worries there.
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