Water heater and water pump questions

[JBoyer]

While relaxing at White Sands this week, I realized I didn't know as much as I thought I knew about several topics. Two topics I need some help with from my friends here. First, the water heater. I understand in my 2008 it is electric and lp. After setting up at our campsite, I noticed we didn't have any hot water - which was strange, as I had heard the water heater "working". After some trouble-shooting, I found that after de-winterizing, I somehow switched the bypass valve back to bypass. The tank was full of fresh, clean water, somehow I just had my head up you-know-where. Sorry, here is my first question. There is an exterior switch for the water heater (black toggle) - that is AC - I assume. Inside on the convenience is another rocker switch with a red breaker for the water heater - AC I assume. How do you control the LP source to the heater - or can you???

Second question - we were hooked up to park water and had good pressure. I wanted to bleed our fresh water tank down some for our return trip so I turned on the pump and walked to the other side of the motorhome to turn off the park supply. In the meantime, my wife was using some water to do dishes. When I went back inside, she mentioned that for a few minutes, we had "awesome" water pressure. I was always under the impression that the pump was somehow separate from the city water feed. How "wrong" am I??? Does anyone use the city feed and pump regularly??

Thanks all!

[WFD]

Your outside toggle switch is for the electric and the switch on the inside is your LP...the switch simply activates your direct spark to ignite the propane. Propane will heat up faster but once you have a full tank of hot water you may want to switch to electric and use the campsite electricity rather than your propane.

Rick

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by JBoyer

here is my first question. There is an exterior switch for the water heater (black toggle) - that is AC - I assume. Inside on the convenience is another rocker switch with a red breaker for the water heater - AC I assume. How do you control the LP source to the heater - or can you???

As WFD explained, the inside the RV switch is for the DC powered DSI/propane, and the outside the RV black switch is for the AC electric heating element.

Here is a more detailed explanation that may help you understand better:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

[JBoyer]

WFR and wmtire -

Thanks for your quick replies and the link. I'll give it a look. I guess the switch inside with the breaker light confused me.

Now to figure out the city water and on-board pump issue!

[boowho]

Originally Posted by JBoyer

WFR and wmtire -

Thanks for your quick replies and the link. I'll give it a look. I guess the switch inside with the breaker light confused me.

Now to figure out the city water and on-board pump issue!

I think the red light comes on when on propane only, something goes wrong, like the flame blows out or something like that..... When the red light comes on, I just "cycle" the propane switch off then on. The flame ignites and the red light goes out.

Boowho??

[Herk7769]

Yes, exactly right. The inside switch applies DC power to the DC/Propane side of the water heater. When the water is cold and calling for heat, the control board sends the "light" command to the igniter and opens the gas valve. The "light" or "reset" or "fault" (depending on label) will stay on until the water reached temperature and the control board shuts off the ignition. Then the light goes out until the water cools down enough to require heating up again.


The outside rocker switch controls the AC "side" of the water heater. They are independent systems and can work alone or together (for faster temperature recovery).

[JBoyer]

boohoo and Herk,

Thanks - one less head scratcher...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by JBoyer

While relaxing at White Sands this week, I realized I didn't know as much as I thought I knew about several topics. Two topics I need some help with from my friends here. First, the water heater. I understand in my 2008 it is electric and lp. After setting up at our campsite, I noticed we didn't have any hot water - which was strange, as I had heard the water heater "working". After some trouble-shooting, I found that after de-winterizing, I somehow switched the bypass valve back to bypass. The tank was full of fresh, clean water, somehow I just had my head up you-know-where. Sorry, here is my first question. There is an exterior switch for the water heater (black toggle) - that is AC - I assume. Inside on the convenience is another rocker switch with a red breaker for the water heater - AC I assume. How do you control the LP source to the heater - or can you???

Second question - we were hooked up to park water and had good pressure. I wanted to bleed our fresh water tank down some for our return trip so I turned on the pump and walked to the other side of the motorhome to turn off the park supply. In the meantime, my wife was using some water to do dishes. When I went back inside, she mentioned that for a few minutes, we had "awesome" water pressure. I was always under the impression that the pump was somehow separate from the city water feed. How "wrong" am I??? Does anyone use the city feed and pump regularly??

Thanks all!

Dependent on Shore water supply and where your water regulator is set,your onboard Water Pump can sometimes produce More PSI in your unit. Mine does. Youroo!!

[JTN8]

Never used both city and pump.... But if trying to use both, it makes sense it will boost your pressure. I have been to some campgrounds with low pressure and used my pump instead.....

[Witch Doctor]

Your city water by passes your water pump. The reason you got more pressure, is that you had the city water direct and at the same time you where pumping water through the same lines from the FW tank.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by JBoyer

Second question - we were hooked up to park water and had good pressure. I wanted to bleed our fresh water tank down some for our return trip so I turned on the pump and walked to the other side of the motorhome to turn off the park supply. In the meantime, my wife was using some water to do dishes. When I went back inside, she mentioned that for a few minutes, we had "awesome" water pressure. I was always under the impression that the pump was somehow separate from the city water feed. How "wrong" am I??? Does anyone use the city feed and pump regularly??

Thanks all!

Do you have a Pressure Reducer on your city water hose. If not, get one as you never know what kind of pressure these city lines have and you may end up blowing out your camper lines if the city pressure is too great.

[Herk7769]

I am not a hydraulics guy so forgive me if I am off base.

As I understood it, the pressure source (pump or city water connection) providing the highest pressure will supply all the volume used.

So if the city water has a higher pressure, the shurflo pump will run in a "no flow" condition (as such it does NOT contribute - add- its pressure to the system.

However, as pressure fluctuations in the incoming city water occur (taps open/close or high volume use on the campground supply pipe, momentary pressure drops at the output side of the pump can cause FW tank water pressure to momentarily exceed pipe pressure and open the reverse flow check valve; thus allowing the returning city water pressure to be forced back into the pump potentially damaging the check valve and fill the fresh water tank even if the pump is subsequently turned off.

I have been told that for the above reason, he pump should not be powered when city water is connected to ensure the check valve remains solidly closed while the lines are pressurized with city water pressure.