What did you do to your Berkshire today ?

[joet19711]

Originally Posted by BamaBob

Joe,

I don't think so - I am hoping the tank heaters and daily use will prevent any bad things from happening

Also, the park we are at has a sign posted in the laundry room that if the temperature drops below 32° to leave both hot and cold taps on at a trickle and the gray tank open. If I have to do that, hope for not too long - I can only imagine how much propane that would eat!

I think the city water will be ok, if we do just what you have described,
it is the fresh water tank and 12v pump and piping there in that bay that kinda concerns me. I am further North than you and we had heavy frost here today and it was 39 deg f in the coach this morning with no heat on.
We have our coach here at the house and have 50A service and water, just trying to avoid winterizing. Going out again next week to West Virginia for a week or so, it is in the mountains so it may be even colder, but that is camping.

[joet19711]

Bob,

Are you gonna put toilet chemicals in your black tank?
If so, What?.
I have been using Aqua Kem, but it will freeze, will tank pads keep it unfrozen?

Joe

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by joet19711

I think the city water will be ok, if we do just what you have described,
it is the fresh water tank and 12v pump and piping there in that bay that kinda concerns me. I am further North than you and we had heavy frost here today and it was 39 deg f in the coach this morning with no heat on.
We have our coach here at the house and have 50A service and water, just trying to avoid winterizing. Going out again next week to West Virginia for a week or so, it is in the mountains so it may be even colder, but that is camping.

Joe,

Did you do the mod with the R85 "Pink Panther" insulation that I did on our coach? I was told by Silver that the "next step" would be to install (or hang) a 60W incandescent shop light in each of the bays, I know some other folks who did that trick and they were good to go at -10°F

It turns out that the long pole in the tent is the tankless hot water heater. Not much can be done about that in below freezing temps except to keep the hot tap running (propane eater option) or turn of the HWH and drain the tank overnight.

Truma makes a unit that will work in sub zero weather and, if I were planning on doing this againm (this year should be the only one!) I would upgrade.

Originally Posted by joet19711

Bob,

Are you gonna put toilet chemicals in your black tank?
If so, What?.
I have been using Aqua Kem, but it will freeze, will tank pads keep it unfrozen?

We use the Bluestreak system:
https://www.bluestreakchem.net/

In addition to this I also add 2-ish OZ of RV Digest it per new tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Unique-Natura...ds=RV+Digestit

We refuse to use 1-ply TP and the RV Digest it has always worked in breaking down Charmin & Northern ultrasoft TP

If you have your tank heaters on, I do not think you should have a problem with your black tank - especially with the RV Digest It - since it is a biologic, it will generate heat as the organisms break the TP & solids down.

We have been doing some testing and it seems that we can go almost 3 weeks before needing to dump our black water tank (42 GAL). Keep in mind that even though we fulltime, we are at the office M-F so this is probably not that accurate - 24/7 Fulltime is probably more like 2 weeks.

Still, my theory is the more "stuff" in the tank, the more biologic activity; the more biologic activity (+ pad heater) the more heat; the more heat, less chance of freezing.

We will have empirical evidence to test this theory by February, so stay tuned

[joet19711]

Bob

Yes I am doing the mod that you did and also adding the 60w work lites in both of the water bays. I actually have work lites with glass globes (water and vapor proof).

Both toilet products look interesting and will have to try them.

Yes, the HW is an issue. I have an Atwood on demand it came with the winterizing kit on the water lines. My heater ignites on flow thru the heater so if I let the hot water drip, I don't think that the gas would come on. Mine has a pressure relief valve that can be opened and drained. But that still maybe the elephant in the room. The Truma heater looks interesting but don't know if it would fit in the space and the door looks different and would have to be repainted. I guess anything can be done. I heard that the Truma heater is now going to be standard on the Berkshire.

I am still gonna add some non-toxic anti freeze to the fresh water tank and blow out the 12V pump and lines around there for some added protection, but I think the insulation and the lamp in there will do the trick.
I only have to make it until after the new year and then weather permitting, head to Daytona for the rest of the winter, we are going to stay until Mid March or so.

Joe

[BamaBob]

Joe,


I think you are spot on - you should be fine with the precautions you are taking.


You are right about the Truma. I believe it fits the form factor of the HWH cutout, but the cover would require some bodywork and of course matching paint. Not a inexpensive prospect! For us (as I understand it) swapping to the 4 season model would be a simple switch but I would have to buy a new unit and I think the 4 season one goes for well over $1K not something I am willing to spend for just one season (we are outta here for FL next DEC )


Oh - yes - you are correct; Truma is the new tankless standard for the Berkshire (I bet the Charleston will have the 4 season model LOL!)


I am actually going to keep my water pump primed; if it gets too cold, I will take to filling the FWT as needed and running off the water pump and FWT. I took a look at our SurFlo pump (sorry forget the model NBR) but it is rated for 55PSI @ 4GPM - that is a pretty stout pump!


We'll weather this winter together brother!


Cheers,


Bob

[joet19711]

Bob

Yes, the Charlestown is the first https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22912-H...hose+for+rvrst

I also have one of these you might want to look into it.


We will get thru the winter together. I am north of you in Delaware so it may be colder...We shall see. I am parked here at my house so I can put a lot of stuff into play to keep things from freezing.
Keep in touch if you want to PM me I will give you my cell #.

Regards

Joe

[Phil57]

Originally Posted by BamaBob

Joe,

Did you do the mod with the R85 "Pink Panther" insulation that I did on our coach? I was told by Silver that the "next step" would be to install (or hang) a 60W incandescent shop light in each of the bays, I know some other folks who did that trick and they were good to go at -10°F

It turns out that the long pole in the tent is the tankless hot water heater. Not much can be done about that in below freezing temps except to keep the hot tap running (propane eater option) or turn of the HWH and drain the tank overnight.

Truma makes a unit that will work in sub zero weather and, if I were planning on doing this againm (this year should be the only one!) I would upgrade.



We use the Bluestreak system:
https://www.bluestreakchem.net/

In addition to this I also add 2-ish OZ of RV Digest it per new tank:
https://www.amazon.com/Unique-Natura...ds=RV+Digestit

We refuse to use 1-ply TP and the RV Digest it has always worked in breaking down Charmin & Northern ultrasoft TP

If you have your tank heaters on, I do not think you should have a problem with your black tank - especially with the RV Digest It - since it is a biologic, it will generate heat as the organisms break the TP & solids down.

We have been doing some testing and it seems that we can go almost 3 weeks before needing to dump our black water tank (42 GAL). Keep in mind that even though we fulltime, we are at the office M-F so this is probably not that accurate - 24/7 Fulltime is probably more like 2 weeks.

Still, my theory is the more "stuff" in the tank, the more biologic activity; the more biologic activity (+ pad heater) the more heat; the more heat, less chance of freezing.

We will have empirical evidence to test this theory by February, so stay tuned

No why not put some heat tape in the water heater compartment. I'm sure that you could wrap that around the input and the tank. Be careful where you put it so you don't have a fire.
Also thinking outside the box and assuming the freezing temps are rare would those hand warmers work? You know the ones that you activate by shaking or bending? Even those back cordless heating pads? Heck even a corded heating pad. Again not wanting to risk a fire. Maybe turn off the heater and run the water. My Atwood has a on off switch in side.
I have never had to deal with freezing temps in the motor home. People are right though a 60 watt bulb puts out a bunch of heat. We have relieved on them many times in the pump house in a stick and brick.

[I-RV]

The 60 watt light bulbs mentioned must be incandescent type and not LED or CFL. The incandescent bulbs are difficult to find. I hope that everyone has a stash of them.
Hank

[I-RV]

I had a hydraulic fluid leak in the hydraulic pump compartment. After wiping up the fluid, I had my DW raise the jacks while I searched for leaks. The leak was very evident; and fluid came out from around a brass fitting. The enclosed picture shows that it is just below the electrical ground stud. The brass fitting took an allen wrench and was I surprised how loose it was. Tightening it, solved the leakage problem.

That's what I did to my RV today. I only wish that all problems would be so easy to solve. Now if I could only get the faux leather from peeling, I would be happy.
Hank

[ChuckandJennr]

Replaced the tv in the main cabin today with a new 43" LG.
Spent hours chasing wires after I was convinced it was a power issue and not the TV. (Old unit worked every time I took it down and plug it into a different power source) only to find out the movement of pulling the TV down was just the right motion to fix the issue, unfortunately that reverse movement to put it back made it in operable nearly every time I put it back....
So new it was and of course had to go bigger.... had to remove the wood trim on the left, to get it in and reinstall it about an inch to the left.

[dave-g]

TV looks great!

This past weekend I spent a hour stopping the microwave from squeaking when driving down the road, It was driving me crazy. Took microwave down, put 2 strips of foam tape on top and back of microwave. Reinstalled- no more squeaking.
I now realize how load it must have been because now I have a squeak from the door I never hear before.

[dan-nickie]

Originally Posted by dave-g

TV looks great!

This past weekend I spent a hour stopping the microwave from squeaking when driving down the road, It was driving me crazy. Took microwave down, put 2 strips of foam tape on top and back of microwave. Reinstalled- no more squeaking.
I now realize how load it must have been because now I have a squeak from the door I never hear before.

Well I need to do that also. I'm just afraid to try it. Sure how to get to the bolts or hold it up there after the bolts are out.

[silver]

Originally Posted by dan-nickie

Well I need to do that also. I'm just afraid to try it. Sure how to get to the bolts or hold it up there after the bolts are out.

Dan,

I put a step stool with pillow on top under the microwave to hold it while taking it down. you have to remove the inside bottom of the cupboard above the microwave to get to the mounting screws.

[gasman94]

I have the glass rattling in the microwave, so I put one of the couch pillows in there to keep it firm and rattle free.


Rich

[outloud]

I'am trouble shooting my bed room tv at certain times the TV goes off then comes back on then goes off and comes back on, trouble shooting

[tmmar]

Unplug the tv for a couple of minutes. Plug it back in and it should be ok- at least for a while. If you are hooked up to the campground cable, it seems that the upper channels are the trouble some ones.

[gasman94]

Not to hijack here, but does anyone ever get a decent picture from campground cable tv?


Rich

[ChuckandJennr]

Originally Posted by gasman94

Not to hijack here, but does anyone ever get a decent picture from campground cable tv?





Rich

I had that issue too. Cable was horrible, bad contact on the cable in the power cord bay. Five minute fix and cleared up the picture. Still crappy, but now just campground crappy vice colored snow storm crappy.

[ChuckandJennr]

Originally Posted by dave-g

TV looks great!

This past weekend I spent a hour stopping the microwave from squeaking when driving down the road, It was driving me crazy. Took microwave down, put 2 strips of foam tape on top and back of microwave. Reinstalled- no more squeaking.
I now realize how load it must have been because now I have a squeak from the door I never hear before.

Thanks -
I had a squeak in the microwave just tightened the mount in the cabinet above while DW pushed up on the unit a bit, no more squeak.
I also keep a roll of foam handy to isolate squeaks in a pinch.

[RLloyd]

We had the same problem with the bedroom TV and the front TV . Never found A FIX , Had them both replaced .