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Old 05-10-2013, 08:41 PM   #1
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15A fuse keeps blowing/fridge not working

2008 Flagstaff HW. Fridge not working on on AC, checked fuse panel there is a red light beside 15a fuse. Each time my husband changes it, it blows. Any idea why it would do this and could that be the reason why our fridge isn't working? Would love some advise on this! Thank you!
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:45 PM   #2
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2008 Flagstaff HW. Fridge not working on on AC, checked fuse panel there is a red light beside 15a fuse. Each time my husband changes it, it blows. Any idea why it would do this and could that be the reason why our fridge isn't working? Would love some advise on this! Thank you!
Suspect something in the control wiring, those fuses are 12v, not 110v. Try turning it off completely, replace fuse, try it on propane and see if it still blows.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #3
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While I was at the shop earlier this week, we had a similar issue with a fuse blowing constantly. I was told that it was because the battery was fully discharged so the unit was drawing to many amps. I am not sure how that works, but after a few minutes of the battery charging our fuse stopped popping.

While it is frustrating when things go wrong, I m somewhat glad they do so I learn how to fix it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:18 PM   #4
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If she is trying the frig on AC, one would assume it is plugged into shore power and the converter is charging the battery.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:18 PM   #5
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While I was at the shop earlier this week, we had a similar issue with a fuse blowing constantly. I was told that it was because the battery was fully discharged so the unit was drawing to many amps. I am not sure how that works, but after a few minutes of the battery charging our fuse stopped popping.

While it is frustrating when things go wrong, I m somewhat glad they do so I learn how to fix it.
??? That reason does not make any sense. A fuse is rated for current in amps and voltage has nothing to do with it. Stay away from that shop. I think you were being fed a line.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:56 PM   #6
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??? That reason does not make any sense. A fuse is rated for current in amps and voltage has nothing to do with it. Stay away from that shop. I think you were being fed a line.
Well in a fashion it can makes sense. According to law of Power in Watts = Voltage multiplied by current. If voltage supplied is low to many devices it will attempt to draw more current to keep the circuit the same. (P=EI) Not sure in this case with a low power draw, it would ever reach 15 amps with low voltage. However they fixed it!
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:56 PM   #7
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??? That reason does not make any sense. A fuse is rated for current in amps and voltage has nothing to do with it. Stay away from that shop. I think you were being fed a line.
Garbonz, voltage has everything to do with it. Think about it this way. Amps are like water through a pipe and voltage is the pressure. Increase pressure and flow goes up. Decrease pressure and flow goes down. The same is true if you raise and lower voltage. Amps go up and down.

Now with that said, normally low battery will reduce current. i.e, light bulbs will dim, because there is not enough voltage to push the correct current through the bulbs resistance.
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:09 PM   #8
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2008 Flagstaff HW. Fridge not working on on AC, checked fuse panel there is a red light beside 15a fuse. Each time my husband changes it, it blows. Any idea why it would do this and could that be the reason why our fridge isn't working? Would love some advise on this! Thank you!
I have the same issue, Ckt#7 right?

I used a volt meter, seems like that wire is grounded somewhere...
on the volt meter, I had the RED wire on + (big batter cable) on the fuse box,
when I touch that wire with - on the meter, I read 13v...this is wrong...
all those wires (ckt #s) are +...

Getting No DC at the refrigerator...I unplugged the + from the terminal block (behind the refrigerator) and the cable that goes in circuit #7, ran a cable from the there to the + on the Refrigerator, it worked, refregrator works on the LP, still can't get it to run on 110v...

even the wire (brown) + unplugged from both ends, refrigerator and main fuse box, still grounded...must be in the middle somewhere...

how do I run a clean wire (not exposed) from the fuse box to the refrigerator?
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:51 PM   #9
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I have the same issue, Ckt#7 right?

I used a volt meter, seems like that wire is grounded somewhere...
on the volt meter, I had the RED wire on + (big batter cable) on the fuse box,
when I touch that wire with - on the meter, I read 13v...this is wrong...
all those wires (ckt #s) are +...

Getting No DC at the refrigerator...I unplugged the + from the terminal block (behind the refrigerator) and the cable that goes in circuit #7, ran a cable from the there to the + on the Refrigerator, it worked, refregrator works on the LP, still can't get it to run on 110v...

even the wire (brown) + unplugged from both ends, refrigerator and main fuse box, still grounded...must be in the middle somewhere...

how do I run a clean wire (not exposed) from the fuse box to the refrigerator?
Don't know your routing or distance from panel to fridge, but I would route a new wire with heavy outdoor insulation below the trailer. find a safe place to drill a 1/8" hole in the floor near the fuse panel and behind the fridge. Run the wire (calls for #14 but use a #12 single conductor for less voltage drop). When run is complete install lead at reefer, then at fuse and install fuse. Cut back original run to penetration. Secure the wire below securely and out of sight wherever possible to prevent damage. Your original wire probably rubbed through to structure. Seal both drillings top and bottom with silicon or foam.
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