AC blowing hot air - Page 2

SCThunderBolt · 01-31-2016, 10:36 AM

I'm going to try to charge the systems before I bite the bullet on new units. I need to review all my paperwork to see exactly which units are on my travel trailer. I figured they were 15K units, however I may be wrong since I have two.

TURBS · 01-31-2016, 10:56 AM

One is probably a 15k "living room" and a 13.5k in the bedroom.

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"

fincher · 01-31-2016, 11:00 AM

I have been having the same problem with ours since we bought it. I have complained about it to Forest River since we got it 3 years ago. They do not stand behind it. They told me that since our camper was prepped and wired for the 2nd AC unit that needs to be installed. Nothing said that the AC unit might be faulty.

TURBS I am going to add the 2nd AC unit myself but I've been trying to figure out if I should go with a ducted or non ducted? Also I want to know if you can install a thermostat on the wall or you have to just go with the switches on the unit? I have a fifth wheel and the switches would be out of reach.

TURBS · 01-31-2016, 11:29 AM

Go ducted.
If it's wired for second a/c it should have a dual climate thermostat.

You'll also need the cccII dual climate control module.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/c...H7RxoCetXw_wcB

Hopefully it'll start warming up some and I can start installing mine.
I'll likely start a thread in doing so.

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"

fincher · 01-31-2016, 01:19 PM

Super! Thanks

SCThunderBolt · 01-31-2016, 06:00 PM

TURBS, I found this on Youtube. Would something like this work?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzowQ9Lgbhg

TURBS · 01-31-2016, 06:40 PM

I don't see why not!

2015 Columbus 320RS
2008 2500HD Duramax
2015 nights camped "34"

SCThunderBolt · 01-31-2016, 07:22 PM

Thanks. I'm going to dig into this a little deeper.

Witch Doctor · 02-01-2016, 06:53 AM

Those work well, but they have a tendency to leak. It is best to have someone solder them in. Also To get back to the correct charge if your doing it yourself it's best to read the name plate. It will tell you the exact charge needed. As an example it might say 28 oz or so. That is the correct amount to put in. you might have to dump the charge and then recharge the system to the name plate. Then you will not be over or under charged. Hope that helps you out. If you have a tech do it with the soldered in ones make sure he pulls a vacuum on the system, because you will get air in it and it has to be evacuated. You will NOT get air in the system with the one shown.

SCThunderBolt · 02-01-2016, 08:26 AM

Thanks. My plan is to get a technician to solder one in before I go with the saddle valve.

SCThunderBolt · 02-01-2016, 10:20 AM

I've been doing more research. It appears regular basic maintenance is required. Since owning my travel trailer 3 years now I have never cleaned the coils and filters. Since my units are working this seems like a good place to start. =)

Witch Doctor · 02-02-2016, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCThunderBolt

I've been doing more research. It appears regular basic maintenance is required. Since owning my travel trailer 3 years now I have never cleaned the coils and filters. Since my units are working this seems like a good place to start. =)

Yep Very good place to start, don't use any harsh chemicals on your coils, and don't forget the drain pan...

bob dirt · 02-03-2016, 12:19 AM

Being an HVAC contractor in Phoenix, I'd wash the outdoor coil to start. Maybe dirty enough to cycle the compressor off on high pressure and over heat during the day and work fine at cooler temps at night. Medium pressure from a garden hose is good enough. That's about all the maintenance a homeowner would be able to do besides keeping the indoor air filter clean. Also, as long as it is a copper line and not aluminum, a tech can sweat on a saddle valve while under pressure and see if the charge is low. If it is low, a leak should be located. If no leak is found the unit could be evacuated and recharged. Depending on how long the charge last, you could make a decision on looking deeper for a leak or just to replace it...just my 2 cents

SCThunderBolt · 02-03-2016, 06:05 PM

Thanks fellas. I appreciate the feedback!

MNtraveler · 02-06-2016, 10:40 PM

<~However while at the RV dealer the rear AC unit stopped working and they removed it and replaced it with a new unit.~>

That's funny but only in the most evil sense of the word. That it happened right at the dealership is so fitting. Glad they fixed it for you!

Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

VinceU · 02-08-2016, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNtraveler

<~However while at the RV dealer the rear AC unit stopped working and they removed it and replaced it with a new unit.~>

That's funny but only in the most evil sense of the word. That it happened right at the dealership is so fitting. Glad they fixed it for you!

Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

Refer to post 4, Dometic having mfg problems and often elect to change.

Rich5117 · 02-10-2016, 07:13 PM

I would like to comment on adding the AC ports to a non working unit. Unless it is specifically spelled out that no repairs can be completed on the unit such as adding freon. Providing the repairs are completed by a trained technician, the manufacturer can not just void the warranty.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act was passed just for this reason. All to often the manufacturer will use this cancellation of warranty claim if you have a repair made or you do something to improve how something functions.

If you have a unit under warranty you should know this act it will get you results especially if someone says we will void your warranty. Quoting that act to a warranty claim person makes them stutter.

Thurman · 03-23-2016, 09:45 PM

My 2 cents worth: NO I am not an A/C certified repair person. I have worked on auto A/C's and domestic refrigerators with a highly skilled A/C person. Placing a "tap valve aka bullet valve" is not the answer. IF one would want to place a valve for testing refrigerant pressures then one would need to add the solder-in brass valves on both the suction and supply side lines. Placing one valve on the suction can, and will, give you incorrect pressure readings. It is important to know what the pressures on both the supply side and suction side are doing. I have never seen one of those two piece valves be placed on a line and not leak withing six (6) months at the most. Windex sprayed onto the valve will confirm this somewhere around four (4) months. One of the most important things one can do for a unit that has apparently lost it's refrigerant is to have a vacuum drawn on the unit. IF there is a leak which would allow the refrigerant to leak out--then moisture can leak in. You just cannot properly charge a system with one of the DIY kits IF the system has moisture within it. Drawing vacuum is the only way to remove the moisture. A vacuum pump is not cheap and they don't sell them at Wally-World either--for a reason. Then you get into: "How long has the system not been working?" This is a need to know question because most times that the refrigerant leaks the special oil for the compressor leaks out also. Then one will have to know how to add just the correct amount of compressor oil to the system before adding the new refrigerant. It actually can get complicated to properly prepare a system for charging and doing the charge itself.

Witch Doctor · 03-24-2016, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob dirt

Being an HVAC contractor in Phoenix, I'd wash the outdoor coil to start. Maybe dirty enough to cycle the compressor off on high pressure and over heat during the day and work fine at cooler temps at night. Medium pressure from a garden hose is good enough. That's about all the maintenance a homeowner would be able to do besides keeping the indoor air filter clean. Also, as long as it is a copper line and not aluminum, a tech can sweat on a saddle valve while under pressure and see if the charge is low. If it is low, a leak should be located. If no leak is found the unit could be evacuated and recharged. Depending on how long the charge last, you could make a decision on looking deeper for a leak or just to replace it...just my 2 cents

Bob dirt, just a question for you on the new Freon used. You stated that you would beable to pierce a copper line while it still held freon in it and solder in a valve. I know with the old freon r-22 that would not work. Don't know with the new freon it's been that long since my time working on units. Also I remember alum coils and lines when they first came out. We use to solder alum coils or lines for repair, I know they used to make a kit to do that. Is any of this stuff still around or have we just become a throw away society. I know for a fact if I pressure tested a system and found a leak at a fitting I had to blow out the lines before I could resolder a fitting, so you have my curiosity up, that's all. That was before all this EPA crap. They were just changing the r-12 and r-22 band, that's how long it's been. Thanks for your answer and information...

bob dirt · 03-24-2016, 08:47 AM

New freon....that's funny. It's been around for a long time now (R410A)

I've soldered temp taps on R-22 system a lot in the past. Some of the new units (residential) back then came sealed. You couldn't troubleshoot them well without knowing pressures. Bad valves on compressor could seem like low charge without knowing more. The new R-410A runs a lot higher pressure than 22. The only things I see sealed nowadays are the small cabinet units for telecommunications, RV's, etc. All the new high efficiency stuff is charged by weight and checked by sub-cooling stamped on the name plate. This process is more time consuming AND is a pita. Anyhow, we don't leave temporary taps in the lines, they are just used for trouble shooting.
btw, the EPA has made us "pump out" systems for over 20 years now...

Another thing, most of the indoor coils now are aluminum and there is no repairing them

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