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Old 08-08-2016, 05:15 PM   #11
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What you have is described is if your fan is set to on, then only the compressor will cycle. in auto mode the fan should cycle with the compressor. Do I understand you correctly Kenny? Also if your sensor in the fin is not set correctly you could be freezing up then when it thaws it comes back on. You could be getting a false reading. Dometic has those both pronounced problems to start with.



I was getting quite a bit of condensation on the unit last week.

When it did shut down, I could cycle it back on with the t stat.


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Old 08-15-2016, 12:18 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Witch Doctor View Post
What you have is described is if your fan is set to on, then only the compressor will cycle. in auto mode the fan should cycle with the compressor. Do I understand you correctly Kenny? Also if your sensor in the fin is not set correctly you could be freezing up then when it thaws it comes back on. You could be getting a false reading. Dometic has those both pronounced problems to start with.

Can you elaborate more on this? Mine shut down the last time out and the thermostat read 32* when you pressed the inside temperature button. I ran the fan for about 20 minutes and then it came back on. Curious what you mean by the sensor in the fin.

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Old 08-15-2016, 01:40 PM   #13
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Can you elaborate more on this? Mine shut down the last time out and the thermostat read 32* when you pressed the inside temperature button. I ran the fan for about 20 minutes and then it came back on. Curious what you mean by the sensor in the fin.

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Dometic has a sensor on a wire that is between your fins on the evaporator side. If it senses that the coil is froze up like a block of ice you can't get air flow through it. So the unit shuts down until it defrosts. Then it will start again, the sensor will fall out or give you false readings you need to push it back in the finnes again. It could be out of place and shutting you down even if the coil is not frozen up. Pull your R/A grill off and look up in there, That sensor will go off for being out of placement, and other things if it is set in the right position, things that make a coil freeze are low on freon and dirty air filters. It will also freeze if the outside temp at night is to low and your TT is set to low and you do not have enough heat transfer. (low temp inside and low temp outside.) Your unit can work great at 80 degrees outside being low on freon but you will notice it when the hotter it gets outside, once it starts to freeze you can't stop it until you turn the unit off and just run the fan to help defrost the coil, you will have alot of condensation at that point, that's just the coil defrosting..
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Old 08-15-2016, 01:44 PM   #14
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Thanks. I understand the freezing up part and low on freon. I fight it with my leaking coil at home once a year. As long as I still have some in the tank and a means to re-fill it, I'm not replacing it. Too cheap. Once the tank I have is empty, we will look at other options. Although I did put some stop leak material in this year.

I do not have an access panel inside, only two air returns and vents. I'll have to pull the cover off the unit up top (and maybe remove the unit) to check the sensor. I'm going to be doing it anyway to check that the duct work is properly connected.

Thanks for the help.


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Old 08-16-2016, 09:51 AM   #15
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There's a freeze sensor embedded in the evap cooler section of the outside unit of the a/c. It's with a fan under a molded cover. Purpose to prevent sub cooing and freeze up of the circ inside air. Often found loose and dangling.
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