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Old 02-25-2019, 12:17 AM   #1
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Antenna booster

Is the Factory antenna booster of any value?

Does anyone know it the jack that says ANT2 (on the circuit board inside the wall) is boosted when the red boost button is pressed on the front and the led light comes on? I am assuming the jack that comes out the front of the faceplate is boosted when the red boost button is pressed and the led light comes on.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:36 AM   #2
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It would help if you posted year, make and model of RV you have, since you don't have it listed in your profile.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:44 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Quail View Post
Is the Factory antenna booster of any value?

Does anyone know it the jack that says ANT2 (on the circuit board inside the wall) is boosted when the red boost button is pressed on the front and the led light comes on? I am assuming the jack that comes out the front of the faceplate is boosted when the red boost button is pressed and the led light comes on.

Yes, both TV1 and TV2 connections are boosted if it's the standard Winegard power injector. If you are not getting a good signal to TV2 then you probably have a loose connection or bad cable.
See page 6 of the attached document.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2452013.pdf (3.15 MB, 36 views)
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:30 AM   #4
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Yes, both TV1 and TV2 connections are boosted if it's the standard Winegard power injector. If you are not getting a good signal to TV2 then you probably have a loose connection or bad cable.
See page 6 of the attached document.
Thank you for the PDF file. It is a Winegard. Still have hope someone can tell me how to test the Coaxial cable with my fluke. How to tell if my antenna is working at all. I get no channels at all.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #5
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More information needed!
Do you get reception out of the TV antenna jack at the booster???

I donno how test an antenna with an ohmmeter..... If you're trying to track down a loss of signal 1st thing is a visual inspection of all connectors you can find.
It's not uncommon to find missing center leads or improperly attached F connectors anywhere in the rig.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:04 AM   #6
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Disconnect both ends of the coax cable that goes from the booster plate to the antenna and ohms check between the center conductor and the connector at either end. You should read an open. If open (assuming cable assembly is properly terminated) the coax cable assembly is good.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:52 AM   #7
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Disconnect both ends of the coax cable that goes from the booster plate to the antenna and ohms check between the center conductor and the connector at either end. You should read an open. If open (assuming cable assembly is properly terminated) the coax cable assembly is good.
I had a trailer where the f connections were bad. There was no short in the system but there was no continuity either.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:56 AM   #8
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I had a trailer where the f connections were bad. There was no short in the system but there was no continuity either.
That's why I said "(assuming cable assembly is properly terminated)".
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:31 PM   #9
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That's why I said "(assuming cable assembly is properly terminated)".

But you can't assume that.
There are possibly hidden splitters in the rig. I don't see any good way to test the system with an ohm meter.
An open reading doesn't necessarily mean the system is good and resistance between center and ground doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.


We need more information from Quail.
Are you getting reception at one outlet but nothing at another or do you mean you have no reception at all, anywhere?
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:04 PM   #10
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But you can't assume that.
There are possibly hidden splitters in the rig. I don't see any good way to test the system with an ohm meter.
An open reading doesn't necessarily mean the system is good and resistance between center and ground doesn't necessarily mean it's bad.


We need more information from Quail.
Are you getting reception at one outlet but nothing at another or do you mean you have no reception at all, anywhere?
You're right can't assume everything but one assumption I think that can be made is that the over the air antenna coax is routed from the antenna to the booster power panel directly (no hidden splitters etc.) and that's what I'm referencing. The OP asked how to check that cable and that's what I have presented.
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