X2 What Flybob said. I used to own a Keystone Raptor TH and had the same problem. CO2 was the usual culprit even with battery disconnect. The breakaway will drain you quickly.
__________________
Dave Hammond
2017 FR Forester 3011 DSF
You may have a door condensation heater on your fridge. If so, it's pulling 0.5 amps all the time. Since your fridge is probably 10 years old, it MAY have a switch located between the fridge and freezer doors to turn it off; they've removed the switch in recent years, so if you don't have the switch, you may still have the heater. See post #5 here for how to see if you have it and how to disable it:
Didn't find any drain will the battery charged and all circuits off.
Haven't turned anything on to draw power but here is where we are at:
3:36 12.85 turn on main
3:59 12.85 turn on air con
4:28 12.85 turn on micro
5:21 12.85 turn onGFI
7:23 12.86 turn on general 1 nose side
You're turning on AC loads not DC ones. There will be no AC drain EVER on your battery since that comes from your plug in or generator. Oh...and measuring voltage does NOT tell you your battery drain amount OR source. You must measure AMPS. You also need to PULL FUSES for telling where the DC drains are AFTER you buy a AC/DC clamp meter that can measure AMP drain.
12.86 V means you still have a "fake" voltage reading on your batteries after charging (called a surface charge) so even that is wrong. You must DICONNECT the black wire from your battery for 24 hours OR use a battery load tester ($20 Harbor Freight) to wipe out the surface charge and get a true reading from a DISCONNECTED battery.
You're turning on AC loads not DC ones. There will be no AC drain EVER on your battery since that comes from your plug in or generator. Oh...and measuring voltage does NOT tell you your battery drain amount OR source. You must measure AMPS. You also need to PULL FUSES for telling where the DC drains are AFTER you buy a AC/DC clamp meter that can measure AMP drain.
12.86 V means you still have a "fake" voltage reading on your batteries after charging (called a surface charge) so even that is wrong. You must DICONNECT the black wire from your battery for 24 hours OR use a battery load tester ($20 Harbor Freight) to wipe out the surface charge and get a true reading from a DISCONNECTED battery.
Didn't find any drain will the battery charged and all circuits off.
Haven't turned anything on to draw power but here is where we are at:
3:36 12.85 turn on main
3:59 12.85 turn on air con
4:28 12.85 turn on micro
5:21 12.85 turn onGFI
7:23 12.86 turn on general 1 nose side
Like other's have tried to tell you, the breakers are for 120 volt AC things and the source is shore OR generator. Forget the AC breakers. Not getting this, probably means you are over your head trying to fix this yourself. You could damage things or worse - yourself, if you don't know what you are doing.
If there is in fact something to be fixed, rather than a normal "parasitic" battery drain, which a battery cut off being added will "fix". If your parasitic load is in the order of .5 DC amps, simply get and install a battery cut off switch. If more, track it down, but have a cut off switch in any case.
You probably do have DC breakers but they won't be in the dist. panel. DC breakers could be manual or auto reset and are located here an there. Mine were originally down on the front of the frame.
Like mentioned, that 12.85 volts is higher due to having been charged and not having rested, but that doesn't matter for what you are doing. Don't know the number that look like time, means. I also would bet money you are not getting these batteries charged with a small charger, but not going down that rabbit trail. You cannot accurately tell the state of charge of a battery with a volt meter, but close enough.
So we both have toyhaulers, and there could be some similarities between them and probably many differences. On my 29HFS with nothing on... (NOTHING), NO shore power... but EVERYTHING CONNECTED. I see about .5 amps total load; what some call parasitic load. This is not broken; this is NORMAL and a battery disconnect properly wired solves the problem when in storage.
If you have 200 Ah deep cycle batteries, and they are fully charged, that means 100 Ah is all you ever want to use and that "normal" .5 amp load would NOT present a problem for around 8 days or so. It would take in the order of 2 weeks to kill the batteries at this rate. Something you never want to do.
When I read DC amps, I would clamp onto the negative B- or ground from the batteries, not the + since you could have multiple cables.
Of that .5 amp load, on MY toyhauler...
Slide controller - it was connected at the battery buss on the front lower frame via a DC breaker - it uses very little power while resting. No one has mentioned this yet. I don't know if you have a slide out.
Distribution panel (yes, the panel itself uses a tiny bit of power). It monitors and can turn on LEDs to indicate a blown fuse... what ever, it uses a little power.
CO detector - mine WAS NOT hard wired, but is connected via a 15 amp fuse that also feeds the bedroom area. Of all the normal parasitic loads, this uses the most.
Radio - extremely small load - less than .05 amps. Some draw a higher load than this, so I've read.
That was it. Nothing in the fridge, WH, MW, lights, or water pump using DC when turned off.
What could be on that shouldn't be on, probably already mentioned here. A light somewhere... cargo bay, or where ever. Break away switch that activates your trailer brakes; would use a substantial amount of DC if accidentally engaged. Very corroded / leaking connections at battery bus where DC breakers might be.
attaching picture of the DC breakers just to show you what they look like... your's will be different, I would imagine. IGNORE the note on the picture.
Again, I caution you. First don't have trailer connected to AC or generator, then be careful. 12 volt batteries have a high current potential and can hurt you.
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
Is anyone sure what size battery's they have in there unites ???
I have to open ours up again and measure again,,, but I am think Maybe we have Group #65 ??? I do not think Group 27 would fit,,, maybe to high to fit in the step ???
I know ours are appropriately 12' long !!! And I think about 7 X 7 ???
Is anyone sure what size battery's they have in there unites ???
I have to open ours up again and measure again,,, but I am think Maybe we have Group #65 ??? I do not think Group 27 would fit,,, maybe to high to fit in the step ???
I know ours are appropriately 12' long !!! And I think about 7 X 7 ???
Yes
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
Like other's have tried to tell you, the breakers are for 120 volt AC things and the source is shore OR generator. Forget the AC breakers. Not getting this, probably means you are over your head trying to fix this yourself. You could damage things or worse - yourself, if you don't know what you are doing.
If there is in fact something to be fixed, rather than a normal "parasitic" battery drain, which a battery cut off being added will "fix". If your parasitic load is in the order of .5 DC amps, simply get and install a battery cut off switch. If more, track it down, but have a cut off switch in any case.
You probably do have DC breakers but they won't be in the dist. panel. DC breakers could be manual or auto reset and are located here an there. Mine were originally down on the front of the frame.
Like mentioned, that 12.85 volts is higher due to having been charged and not having rested, but that doesn't matter for what you are doing. Don't know the number that look like time, means. I also would bet money you are not getting these batteries charged with a small charger, but not going down that rabbit trail. You cannot accurately tell the state of charge of a battery with a volt meter, but close enough.
So we both have toyhaulers, and there could be some similarities between them and probably many differences. On my 29HFS with nothing on... (NOTHING), NO shore power... but EVERYTHING CONNECTED. I see about .5 amps total load; what some call parasitic load. This is not broken; this is NORMAL and a battery disconnect properly wired solves the problem when in storage.
If you have 200 Ah deep cycle batteries, and they are fully charged, that means 100 Ah is all you ever want to use and that "normal" .5 amp load would NOT present a problem for around 8 days or so. It would take in the order of 2 weeks to kill the batteries at this rate. Something you never want to do.
When I read DC amps, I would clamp onto the negative B- or ground from the batteries, not the + since you could have multiple cables.
Of that .5 amp load, on MY toyhauler...
Slide controller - it was connected at the battery buss on the front lower frame via a DC breaker - it uses very little power while resting. No one has mentioned this yet. I don't know if you have a slide out.
Distribution panel (yes, the panel itself uses a tiny bit of power). It monitors and can turn on LEDs to indicate a blown fuse... what ever, it uses a little power.
CO detector - mine WAS NOT hard wired, but is connected via a 15 amp fuse that also feeds the bedroom area. Of all the normal parasitic loads, this uses the most.
Radio - extremely small load - less than .05 amps. Some draw a higher load than this, so I've read.
That was it. Nothing in the fridge, WH, MW, lights, or water pump using DC when turned off.
What could be on that shouldn't be on, probably already mentioned here. A light somewhere... cargo bay, or where ever. Break away switch that activates your trailer brakes; would use a substantial amount of DC if accidentally engaged. Very corroded / leaking connections at battery bus where DC breakers might be.
attaching picture of the DC breakers just to show you what they look like... your's will be different, I would imagine. IGNORE the note on the picture.
Again, I caution you. First don't have trailer connected to AC or generator, then be careful. 12 volt batteries have a high current potential and can hurt you.
WW
Wolf whistle,
Thank you. I am by no means an electrician, and this is all very helpful. Our original concern was that the charge controller went bad and causing some of the issues. This is why we thought the 110 breakers may be involved. But it appears we have our heads in our butts and talking crazy talk.
We have been busy with a move to another state so have not been able to continue but will update when we can.
__________________
26' Forrest Sierra Toy Hauler
26FBSP
Pulling toys for my boys!
Be aware that if you have a Dometic fridge, it may have a door heater that pulls about 0.5 amps all the time. See here for info on the heater and how to disable it if desired.
lots of things have been mentioned. co detector and lp detector were hardwired to the battery. also the level up system was hardwired to the battery. the level up system has a remote control device so the receiver in the system is always drawing some power as it is always listening for commands from the remote controller. these would draw down out batteries in about a week. I installed a disconnect on the batteries to remove all loads and now the batteries last for months. one caution. if you install a disconnect to remove all loads make sure you either wire the breakaway switch directly to the battery or ensure that you cannot tow with out batteries connected as the breakaway switch requires battery power when towing.
__________________
2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
Linear Mode
