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Old 02-21-2016, 12:18 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
The 120v heater is for operating the fridge. The 12V heater is for the condensation strip heater around the door seal. The 2652 schematic shows a switch for the condensation heater. I think it may be item #66 on page 7 of the attached parts document. Looks like it's kind of hidden under the control panel. I have 2652 also, but haven't seen the switch. I'll have to look when spring arrives.

Glad you corrected me on that. So the only heater for the condensation is the 12 volt heater on terminal J2.
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:09 AM   #12
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Glad you corrected me on that. So the only heater for the condensation is the 12 volt heater on terminal J2.
Correct.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:07 PM   #13
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I sniped and caped the wire behind the light to the heater last year, no issues so far. If need be I'll put a switch on it. Light still works.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289 View Post
I sniped and caped the wire behind the light to the heater last year, no issues so far. If need be I'll put a switch on it. Light still works.
So you're saying that the wire to the heater and the wire to the light join in light enclosure somewhere, i.e., it's accessible "at the light?"

What model, and do you have a pic?
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Old 02-21-2016, 04:56 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
So you're saying that the wire to the heater and the wire to the light join in light enclosure somewhere, i.e., it's accessible "at the light?"
What model, and do you have a pic?
I pulled the cover off my light and snipped the wire going to the anti-condensation heater.
Light works but no battery sucking heater.
Yes it sweats a little in hot humid weather but it's never been a problem
for us.
Plus our fridge cools only marginally in hot weather and having a hot strip
of metal next to the cold area is not in the best interest of cold beer.
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Old 02-21-2016, 05:16 PM   #16
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In another forum there is a discussion about this along with pictures. Here is the link. I'm not sure if there is an issue so it might get removed. Jerry
http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113116



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Old 02-21-2016, 07:03 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
So you're saying that the wire to the heater and the wire to the light join in light enclosure somewhere, i.e., it's accessible "at the light?"

What model, and do you have a pic?
Dometic 2652, didn't take pictures when I did the mod. One thing I found strange was that the wires feeding the light and case warmer are of different gauges, the heavier gauge wire went to the light. I would have thought that the larger wire would have went to the heater.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:36 PM   #18
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Dometic 2652, didn't take pictures when I did the mod. One thing I found strange was that the wires feeding the light and case warmer are of different gauges, the heavier gauge wire went to the light. I would have thought that the larger wire would have went to the heater.
That's strange that the light would have a heavier wire, but I'm not surprised by anything these RV guys do.

I found the pic of the switch I was looking for. I don't know that every fridge with a switch has it here, but this is where it is on this guys fridge.
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:55 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
That's strange that the light would have a heavier wire, but I'm not surprised by anything these RV guys do.

I found the pic of the switch I was looking for. I don't know that every fridge with a switch has it here, but this is where it is on this guys fridge.
Hey-that looks like MY hand!!

Just to recap and maybe avoid confusion.

If you have the switch to shut off the heater - it will be found in the
area of the pointing finger! That is a foto of my previous unit. Note- in my
case I found that after traveling on an extra bumpy stretch of highway the
switch would be moved to a sort of center position where it was ON! I guessed
the freezer door trim was bouncing just enough to contact the
rocker and move it.
We boondocked one time and found our batteries sucked nearly dead in 2
days because I'd forgotten to check the switch. I popped the switch out
and taped off one of the wires to prevent that from happening again.

The OTHER switch we've been discussing is the interior light switch.
If you DO have the heater and don't have the little rocker switch (as
shown by the pointing finger) you can pull the cover off your light switch
and snip the wire going to the heater to permanently disable the 12v heater.

I've done that on my current unit and as mentioned I believe it was the
skinny wire going to the heater and the fatter wire powered the light.
Go figure- I'm not sure if the wire gauge was actually larger or the insulation was just thicker....

Finally if you decide to do this little mod be sure and disconnect shore
and battery power or you'll likely wind up looking to replace one of the fuses on back side
of the fridge! Ask me how I know....
Plus my fridge had an incandescent bulb and it would get hot enough to burn you
in mere seconds so you don't want it on with the light cover off.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:34 AM   #20
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For those without a switch:

Concept and photos from ZackDog at IRV2 -

1. Take the outside cover off and located the Junction box to find the J2 circuit and noted the diameter of the red wire.

2. Remove the light cover in the refrigerator and find the two red wires attached to the light switch. Pulled them out as far as possible and cut the one that is larger in diameter than the one identified in step 1.

3. Attach a female connector to the wire close to the switch and a male connector to the wire that goes through the hole in the refrigerator. Cover the male connector with electrical tape. If you need to use the heater in the future, just join the two connectors.

By doing it this way, the light still works.
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