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Old 07-28-2014, 04:32 PM   #1
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Breaker problem

I have a 2014 Wildwood 27RKSS, Anyone else having issues with the 30amp main breaker tripping? It happens when the A/C and electric water heater are on and try to run anything else.
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Old 07-28-2014, 04:41 PM   #2
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I have a 2014 Wildwood 27RKSS, Anyone else having issues with the 30amp main breaker tripping? It happens when the A/C and electric water heater are on and try to run anything else.
You are right at the max if both came on the same time. Your breaker could be weak and replace it other then that just run you w/h on propane and take it out of the total circuit. Problem solved you really use very little propane to heat water.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:11 PM   #3
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I have a 2014 Wildwood 27RKSS, Anyone else having issues with the 30amp main breaker tripping? It happens when the A/C and electric water heater are on and try to run anything else.
(Are you at a campground or at home? If at home and running on a 110 cord, then you only have 15 amps)
You are at a tipping point for the 30 Amp with the AC and the Electric WH on. Other systems are pulling Amps that may not come to mind.... your Fridge... your converter charging your batts... In my mind your main breaker is working as it should. As stated, turn you Electric WH off while the AC is running.

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How do you know which appliances you can run? Without getting too technical, the appliances that generate heat or coolness (air conditioner, microwave, coffee maker, toaster, blow dryer, water heater, furnace, etc.) will use more electricity. The more of those items you run a t the same time, the more likely you are to trip a breaker. Even I know what breakers are, so I will assume the majority of our readers do as well.

Many people determine what items can be used simultaneously by trial and error. They keep turning on appliances until the breaker trips. Later on, in the "Further Understanding Your RV Electrical System", we will discuss how you can figure out exactly which items you can run by using a little math.
RV Electrical Systems
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:25 PM   #4
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I had a 2000 Gulf Stream Conquest before the Wildwood,and never had an issue running the same items as I stated, I think there's another issue.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:46 PM   #5
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Most RV electric water heater elements are 1440 watts (12.5 amps at 115V) and depending on whether you have a 13K5 or 15K BTU A/C that will be another 15.1 or 15.9 amps (Dometic Brisk II spec sheet). That's either 27.6 or 28.4 amps and the starting draw of the A/C will likely put you over 30 amps. Add in that your converter is probably drawing some just to keep the battery on float charge and run the parasitic loads (propane/CO detector, stereo standby, fridge control board). Add in any lights you have on, the clock in the microwave and if the fridge electric element is on... you see the problem?

As the others are saying - run the WH on propane if you expect to have the A/C running.
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:25 PM   #6
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P.S. There are electric elements that are used to add electric to a propane-only WH by replacing the anode rod or drain plug. This one is only 450 watts and while it would take almost 3x as long to recover you probably wouldn't have a problem with it being on concurrent to the A/C.
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