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Old 08-06-2011, 01:34 PM   #1
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Concertone static

All,

Hi. I did some looking around on the forum and found some good information on trying to fix the static coming from my Concertone 75 model. I pulled it out and took a look at the wires. Here's what I found and need a little help. The black and red are connected to a blue and white wire, with white connected to the black. There is another black wire laying in the wall, not connected to anything. I see lots of post about grounding the unit. How to I do that properly? Any help would be great. My cell phone plays better music then my camper. Thanks,
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Old 08-06-2011, 01:50 PM   #2
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Do you have this static when you are not plugged into the 110 current? On our unit that was the only time we had very bad static - to fix it I went to Radio Shack & bought two choke sometimes they are called filters. Put one on the red or positive power wire & the other one on the larger black coax that runs to the antenna - no more noise!
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:14 PM   #3
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Static on the radio----------

Sounds like you antenna wire may be unplugged. Remove the radio from the wall or mount, check the antenna wire (THICK BLACK WITH A MOTOROLA MALE PLUG), make sure it is plugged in. In order to ground the radio you will need to attache a ground wire to the radio metal case. I do not know which wire F/R uses for ground (COLOR). But there should be a diagram on the case of the radio that shows earth ground wire. The black one you found loose may be the ground wire. But first I would use a VOLT meter to read the wire to make sure it is not hot (12VDC). Usually when there is no ground wire or the antenna is unplugged, you will receive the AM station with static but no FM stations.

What a lot of people do not know, the antenna that is used on the RV roofs will leak water down into the antenna wire just below the the mount. The wire that runs down inside the thick antenna wire is like a hair in size.
To prevent the mount from leaking water, you should remove the one half
of the adjustment ball (That adjust the am/fm antenna up and down) use silicone to seal the screw just below the ball (caution, do not, I repeat, do not loosen the screw in the bottom of the mount) You can tighten it if loose. This is what holds the whole mount in your roof ! Place silicone over the head of the screw to seal it. The screw has a copper counter sunk washer under the head of the screw. This is designed to insure a good contact between the top of the AM/FM antenna and the small hair thin wire that goes to the plug at your radio.

Earth ground symbol on the left is earth ground. The symbol in the center is chassis ground. the symbol on the right is component ground.



Ground Splice Pack Symbol
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:33 PM   #4
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All,
Thanks. The antenna is plugged in. I traced the black wire to the frame under the trailer. I runs straight from the upper area where the stereo is located, down through the floor to the frame. Not sure why FR did not connect this to the unit, but its there. I was able to get the unit to work better, but not good. I am very unhappy with the product and now that it is out of warranty I am going to look at replacing the unit with something else.

I do have a question. I am comfortable with 12 volt systems and understand it pretty well, but why does the unit stay powered up when I disconnect the black wire on the power side on the wiring harness?

Thanks all, Have a good evening.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:00 AM   #5
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All,

Got up this morning and wanted to find out way my ZX-75 stayed on after disconnecting the ground wire from the wiring harness. I was able to troubleshoot it to the Video Out (yellow plug in cable) that goes from the ZX-75 to the TV. The ZX-75 is using the Video Cable as a ground for the power to return to the battery. Is this correct? Or, does this mean the unit has an internal problem? Not sure I understand why this is like this and now concerns me that this could be a bigger problem with the unit. Thanks,
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:33 PM   #6
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Video cable is acting as ground

The yellow Video cable is acting as a ground, using the braided shield wire
on the video cable back through the television into the 110Vac ground wire for the TV.

And you are correct, the black wire you traced back to the RV chassie (frame) is the earth ground. Sombody got lazy, did not hook it up.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingsuppo46 View Post
All,

Got up this morning and wanted to find out way my ZX-75 stayed on after disconnecting the ground wire from the wiring harness. I was able to troubleshoot it to the Video Out (yellow plug in cable) that goes from the ZX-75 to the TV. The ZX-75 is using the Video Cable as a ground for the power to return to the battery. Is this correct? Or, does this mean the unit has an internal problem? Not sure I understand why this is like this and now concerns me that this could be a bigger problem with the unit. Thanks,

One thing you might try is to diconnect the connections between the TV and the ZX-75 and see if the noise goes away. When I did marine electronics, it was common to use a 12VDC automotive radio in the staterooms/ cabins and connect the audio to the 120VAC TV for "quality" sound. Well, anytime you connect an AC device to a DC device, you can get noise (aka static). If disconnecting the cables between the ZX-75 and the TV works clearing the noise, an easy fix can be to connect a small wire between the chasis of the ZX-75 to the chasis of the TV. You might stick a voltmeter between the chassis' and see if you have any AC voltage between them. If it is a small amount the small wire between the two devices should work. If there is a substantial amount, you may want to try to isolate where the AC is coming from, something may not be wired correctly and is going to ground (often the frame of the TT).
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:10 PM   #8
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All,
Thanks for the information. I was able to get it to sound better, but not great. I used all of your suggestions. I can't say for sure what was the one thing that made it better, but the quality of the ZX-75 is lacking and will never be that good. This is the one thing that I have been the most disappointted in with my TT. So, I ordered a Jensen 975 this morning to replace it. It will require a small amount of modifications to the hole where the ZX-75 is located, but I measured it and have plenty of room. Plus, it lets me clean up the wiring mess in the wall.

I was looking at the wiring for the Jensen and see that it has three 12 volt (+) supplies: 1) ignition, 2) trigger, and 2) direct connect. I know some of you have replaced your concertone systems and I would like to know how you handled the three "hot" wires since there is no ignition and I do not plan on using the trigger wire? Do I need to connect thiese wires in some manner or can I connect the 12(+) from the panel and ground the unit using the black wire that is directly connected to the frame....thank you FR for installing that for me. Appreciate any information you might have. Thanks,
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingsuppo46 View Post
All,
Thanks for the information. I was able to get it to sound better, but not great. I used all of your suggestions. I can't say for sure what was the one thing that made it better, but the quality of the ZX-75 is lacking and will never be that good. This is the one thing that I have been the most disappointted in with my TT. So, I ordered a Jensen 975 this morning to replace it. It will require a small amount of modifications to the hole where the ZX-75 is located, but I measured it and have plenty of room. Plus, it lets me clean up the wiring mess in the wall.

I was looking at the wiring for the Jensen and see that it has three 12 volt (+) supplies: 1) ignition, 2) trigger, and 2) direct connect. I know some of you have replaced your concertone systems and I would like to know how you handled the three "hot" wires since there is no ignition and I do not plan on using the trigger wire? Do I need to connect thiese wires in some manner or can I connect the 12(+) from the panel and ground the unit using the black wire that is directly connected to the frame....thank you FR for installing that for me. Appreciate any information you might have. Thanks,

The ingnition and direct connect can be combined. The Trigger usually refers to a 12VDC out to trigger an amplifier to turn on, so I would say unless you are using an automotive typ amp, don't connect it. I would connect the DC (-) negitive to the (-) from the battery, chasis ground to the frame.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:16 PM   #10
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Kirk,

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing. No use for the trigger wire, so I would cap it off and tape it. Appreciate the info on the ground. I will connect as you stated and see how things go. I should get the unit on Thursday and have it installed by the weekend. We are heading out for a week on Sunday, so it would be nice to have it in and tested before heading out. Thanks again.
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