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Old 01-10-2014, 07:20 PM   #21
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Glad you got er taken care of.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:22 PM   #22
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Glad you got er taken care of.
Thanks for your help and suggestions!
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:36 PM   #23
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Ding Ding.
Garbonz you get the prize. Bad relay on module. Warranty covered the $260 price of part + labor. Took about 1 1/2 hrs to replace. Getting good heat now. Got a little nervous when I got RV back to park as the furnace ran for 3 minutes and shut off. I was thinking "crap here we go again" then I remembered the temp outside was in the mid-60's so of course it shut off.
Happy camper now...mostly. Was setting up RV and leveling. NOW the side-to-side leveling jacks aren't working! Oh well, off to do more research on what has gone wrong. Service guy is supposed to call me tomorrow to let me know if he might have loosened a wire to get to furnace.
When it rains....

Can you use boards to level side to side for now?
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:49 PM   #24
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When it rains....

Can you use boards to level side to side for now?
Actually I misspoke. I have electric stabilizing jacks at the corners of the RV. I hear absolutely no sound when I attempt to engage system to lower jacks. Electric tongue jack works well but not the side-to-side stabilizers. Trailer is level. I lowered them manually and will try to find out later what has happened. Can't imagine how the service work on furnace today could be related. No breaker trips. Found a bundle of wires/fuses beneath front of trailer and all looks ok. Will have to check to see if tongue jack and stabilizing jacks are on same circuit or simply run off battery. Oh the joys of ownership....
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:24 PM   #25
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I think that the 12V fuses for the front and rear stabilizers are in the DC side of the fuse panel. Look for a lit red LED light to indicate which fuse is blown.

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Old 01-10-2014, 08:51 PM   #26
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I think that the 12V fuses for the front and rear stabilizers are in the DC side of the fuse panel. Look for a lit red LED light to indicate which fuse is blown.

Dave
Attached is picture of the breaker box. No trips. No red lights. Is there another panel somewhere else? This one is under the fridge next to Battery Disconnect. Battery is 100 % charged.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:12 PM   #27
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Are there 12V fuses marked for front and rear stabilizers? If there is, I'd pull and check it as I've had them blow but without the red LED light on. If there's no 12V fuse there it may be close to the control switches...probably have to be accessed from inside.

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Old 01-10-2014, 09:22 PM   #28
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Are there 12V fuses marked for front and rear stabilizers? If there is, I'd pull and check it as I've had them blow but without the red LED light on. If there's no 12V fuse there it may be close to the control switches...probably have to be accessed from inside.

Dave
Nothing marked for stabilizers on panel. I'll look tomorrow @ the control switches and follow the cables and see if I can locate a fuse there. I understand that sometimes a fuse for these are located near the battery under the front of the trailer. Was raining when I got back to RV park and didn't get to look at it as closely as I would have liked. I'm wondering if the service technician might have accidently pried a wire loose when he crawled into the outside storage compartment to get to the back of the furnace. I'll take a look there as well. Now wish I had tested everything before I left shop but was so overjoyed to finally have heat.

Thanks
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:58 PM   #29
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On my fiver the rear stabs have a inline fuse at the motor on the jacks you might look there.
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:09 PM   #30
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Might want to check up by the battery, my buddy's Surveyer by Forest River has electric stabilizer jacks and he has a fuse right there at the terminal for each front and rear set of jacks. I hope you find it, and it's something simple.
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:39 PM   #31
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Might want to check up by the battery, my buddy's Surveyer by Forest River has electric stabilizer jacks and he has a fuse right there at the terminal for each front and rear set of jacks. I hope you find it, and it's something simple.
I think I found what you're referring to (see attached photo). Would be odd for both fuses to blow simultaneously without some type of surge. I would also think if only the fuse for front jack were bad the rear jacks would be operational unless there is some mechanism shutting down all jacks if 1 pair is inoperable. No sure about that. If fuses are ok (will check a little later) then I guess I might have a ground wire loose in the bundle. Quick visual inspection doesn't reveal this. One thing is for sure...this has to be electrical in nature as front and rear use 2 different motors.
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Old 01-11-2014, 01:36 PM   #32
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Looking at your DC panel, it looks like the bottom yellow 20 amp fuse is label "PSJ" for power stabilizing jack?? Just to be on safe side, I would pull it out and make sure it is not burnt.

ps: glad your furnace is fix
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:10 PM   #33
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Looking at your DC panel, it looks like the bottom yellow 20 amp fuse is label "PSJ" for power stabilizing jack?? Just to be on safe side, I would pull it out and make sure it is not burnt.

ps: glad your furnace is fix
You nailed it Fonzie. 20 amp fuse was dead, replaced, and stabs are now working.
Called service technician where I bought RV. He looked at same model on site. There is not an external fuse or reset button for this model. Everything is in the panel. Interestingly, the models at RV dealership ALL had 30 amp fuses, NOT 20. I replaced the 20 with a 30 amp as Walmart was out of the 20's. I want to test later to see if it blows a 20 when I use stabs again. Documents I received for stabs was minimal at best and doesn't indicate what proper fuse amp should be used.

Thanks for pointing out the obvious.
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