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Old 06-02-2015, 06:19 PM   #21
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When I had a problem with my then new TT and the A/C quit. It too is a 15k unit. I called Dominic and they replaced unit. With a new one. Took less than a week at a. Nonselling dealer.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:29 PM   #22
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perseverance pays off!!!! I just received this email from Forest River.

Good afternoon,
It is my understanding that Dometic has authorized replacement of the air conditioner and has been in contact with (dealer) to make those arrangements. Please let me know if further assistance is needed.
(signed)

Thanks to everyone who paid attention to this thread and gave input. Even though i did not respond to each, i did read and think about everyones comments.

I really want to send out a MAJOR thanks to HERK. Without his knowledge, expertise and support, i never would have been able to get through this. I'm lucky he lives nearby and i really feel sorry for everyone else in the country that needs help and does not have him to lean on.

With that being said, yesterday we called Dometic and spoke to a person who took the time to listen to our situation, contacted her supervisor, and i guess they watched the video. But 24 hours later i received the above email indicating that the unit exchange was approved.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:45 PM   #23
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:18 PM   #24
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I dropped mine off at an authorized Dometic service dealer today. Based on the symptoms, they think the unit will be replaced and said Dometic is very good about standing behind their stuff. I will post an update when I get it.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:25 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
My guess from your description:

1) Heat Load. By not opening a roof vent to let the hot air escape as the trailer filled with cold air (which sinks) you forced the air conditioner to try and remove ALL of the btus of heat in the camper. This will cause continuous operation of the compressor which, like any motor, will eventually will over heat and shut down. This is bad for the air conditioner's health.

2) Humidity. The air conditioner cools by two primary methods (in effect) by lowering the air temperature and removing humidity. Of the two, removing humidity is the most effective in you "feeling" cool. You will "feel" cooler in 80 degree air at 60% humidity, than in 80 degree air at 98% humidity.

To remove humidity, the air conditioner MUST cycle. Shut off and let the coils warm up so frost and ice formed during the ON cycle can melt and be removed via the roof drain. By setting the thermostat at 70 with an outside air temp at 80, you were doing a "good thing."

BUT, the air conditioner never got to see that outside 80 degree air because it was working with 104 degree air; see the importance of lowering the heat load?

3) Ice detector probe. There is supposed to be an ice detector probe in the cooling coils to protect the compressor. The probe detects icing and will shut the compressor down to clear it. The fan motor still runs but the compressor does not while the coil tries to warm up. Depending on how fast the ice accreted (built up), this could take a long time during which no cooling and low, or NO, air flow is coming out of the air conditioner regardless of fan setting.

4) Short Cycling (start up then shutdown in a few seconds) has several possible causes.

4a) Voltage is one. 15K BTU air conditioners draw many more start up amps than the 13.5K variety. If you are running the AC off of a small diameter extension cord for example (or low voltage at the source from a heavily tasked campground), the start up amps required can exceed the ability of the motor's internal thermal protection to handle. It can open and shut down the compressor well before 20 amp circuit breaker can heat up enough to open.

4b) An air leak between the intake and the forced air outlet sides of the air handler section. Note the metal tape in the frost sensor picture. If the leak allows a significant amount of hot air to bypass the coils, the frost detector will "think" the coils are frozen and will shut the compressor down. It will "immediately" reset (few seconds) and try to restart the compressor. HOWEVER, the compressor will still have liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor; causing rotor lock (and again with the thermal switch in the compressor motor).

In the photo you can see my 15K BTU Coleman Mach III. The "Running Amps" is 11.9 BUT the locked rotor amps is 58 and THAT is at 115 volts.
Yes, if the thermal switch "hangs in there" long enough the 20 amp circuit breaker will open but the compressor should have shut down long before enough heat occurred in the circuit breaker to open it.

As volts go down, AMPS go UP with an inductive motor like a compressor.

5) I have seen cases where that probe has fallen out of the coils (or was never inserted or the coils were extremely dirty from running without a filter) and caused the coils to look like a solid block of ice. The only cure is to let the unit sit OFF for several hours and put a pail under it because there will be water in the camper as the ice melts from the outside, in and the drip pan under the coils will be frozen).

Cleaning the coils on your air conditioners should be a regular maintenance item. AC-Safe Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner-AC-920 - The Home Depot
1. if your delta T is over 20 degrees between outside and inside air when first firing the AC then maybe vent for a little, but Id worry about introducing more and more moisture laden air to dehume. Im from NorCal and the AC compressors run continuously here through the day.

2. the AC compressor does not need to cycle to dehume. in a properly operating environment, the moisture condenses and runs to the tray to drain with no icing.

3. this probe is not found on manually controlled models indicating it is not an essential on an AC. little or no air flow is an indication of icing. just run on fan for 15 to 20 minutes, this should be long enough to clear most icing issues.

4b. a poor seal between intake and output, allows COLD air from discharge to be readmitted to intake resulting in a precursor to icing condition. now extra cold air is present at evaporator coils. condensate will freeze and compressor will short cycle as lou describes.

5. prolly the safest bet. i just pull the grill and run the fan. pulled off 1/2" slabs or better but water will get blown to output side of ducting with grill on.

in closing...a delta T of 22 is considered ideal. the old piston models might see 25. higher than that and you might have icing issues. these are the parameters these ACs were built to perform at. if its 110 in you coach when you first fire it, expect about 88 degree output air. once your down to 90, then you might see 68. this takes a while. tried to post respectfully. only stating things as I see them. subject to much debate no doubt...
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Old 06-09-2015, 08:59 PM   #26
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Thanks for the info...
1. my delta T would eventually get to 20 degrees, but then the unit would shut off and turn back on.
2/3. I never saw any indication of icing. in fact sometimes the A/C would produce condensation running off the roof. ( a good sign i assume) but when i figured out about the temp probe, it was in the right spot. And, the coils where the probe was located never got cold.

one night when we ran it overnight (outdoor temp in the 50's overnight and 70's before noon) it was actually in the 80's inside the trailer after running the A/C all night....

Hopefully when they swap it out, we will see better temperatures consistent with the thermostat settings!

thanks again for the input. this whole thing has been a huge learning experience...

db
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:41 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by slapshot12 View Post
I dropped mine off at an authorized Dometic service dealer today. Based on the symptoms, they think the unit will be replaced and said Dometic is very good about standing behind their stuff. I will post an update when I get it.
Yea, Dometic was great to work with. Very understanding and willing to go the extra mile to help out. I would say if ever your domestic unit craps out, they should be your first call. Warranty or not.

Db
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:12 PM   #28
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Dave,

You fixed yet?

How is it working??

Inquiring minds and all...
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Old 06-13-2015, 06:33 PM   #29
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They are replacing my unit under warranty. Hope to have it back by the end of next week.
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:08 PM   #30
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Dave,

You fixed yet?

How is it working??

Inquiring minds and all...
Just got it back yesterday AM. they ran it for 15 mins and it was a world of difference. We got it home and ran it for an hour and the temp came down almost immediately compared to before. Excellent unit. works great!

Thanks again for your help Lou. We will be doing a home camping this coming weekend to get andrew used to the camper and the following weekend in Hershey. I'll keep you posted!

db
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