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Old 09-30-2012, 10:39 PM   #21
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My four door Dometic shut down a couple of times due to 120 volt power issues. My dealer had me check the 1 amp glass fuse in the back of the frig behind a covered plastic box. In that same box they had me disconnect a micro plug that connects the circuit board to the rest of the system This resets the circuit board to default settings and restores the frig to normal operations. It worked twice for me. It could be worth a try.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:16 AM   #22
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My four door Dometic shut down a couple of times due to 120 volt power issues. My dealer had me check the 1 amp glass fuse in the back of the frig behind a covered plastic box. In that same box they had me disconnect a micro plug that connects the circuit board to the rest of the system This resets the circuit board to default settings and restores the frig to normal operations. It worked twice for me. It could be worth a try.
Absolutely. Pulling the power center's 12 volt fuse for the fridge should accomplish the reset as well.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:38 PM   #23
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I spoke to an RV repair shop today and he thought it would likely not be the control board. He did say that there is a chance it could be the board at the top of the fridge above the freezer, that has the buttons and indicator lights on it. He thought it could be defective or there could be a loose or pinched wire. So I pulled it off and it looked okay. I wiggled the wires and turned the fridge on again on 120. So far, about 6 hours later, the fridge is doing fine on 120V.

Maybe the connector to this board was loose? Guess we will just have to wait and see.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
I spoke to an RV repair shop today and he thought it would likely not be the control board. He did say that there is a chance it could be the board at the top of the fridge above the freezer, that has the buttons and indicator lights on it. He thought it could be defective or there could be a loose or pinched wire. So I pulled it off and it looked okay. I wiggled the wires and turned the fridge on again on 120. So far, about 6 hours later, the fridge is doing fine on 120V.

Maybe the connector to this board was loose? Guess we will just have to wait and see.
Good find! thats why he's a repair shop. Hope it holds up, I'll file that for my own 1350.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:46 AM   #25
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I will remember that too. I ruled out the "eyebrow" board because the system obviously had 12 volts. I will need to look at a wiring diagram to see why it had an effect on the 120 VAC heater.

Maybe the GAS ONLY button removes power to a 120 VAC relay on the main control board that can then disconnect the 120 VAC.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:48 PM   #26
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If there was an amonia leak it would all leak out, not just a little.

Could the hissing be from a propane leak? Maybe it was air vacuum built up in the box.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:32 PM   #27
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If you have a ammonia Leak it would all leak out. You will also have a strong smell of ammonia in the refrig and if it leaked around the flue pipe or the back there will be a yellow stain hope this helps
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