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Old 07-08-2016, 04:28 PM   #21
GSW
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I have plugged the fridge 120v plug directly into an extension cord.
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:51 PM   #22
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How have you decided that it's not working on 120 volts? because the burner flame is still on?

Do the lights look right for it to be in Auto?
Do the buttons 'feel' right when pressing them?

There was a thread a few days ago that had about the same symptoms and they found the button board wasn't making contact when pressing the buttons.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:59 PM   #23
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When I turn it on...press Auto, nothing happens for a few seconds then it tries to ignite the propane (which I have turned off)

Also, I get no 120v 0n the pins to the heater.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:02 PM   #24
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All lights are ok. It works fine on propane....I have been using the propane part of it for months. It quit on 120v many months ago....I am just getting around to trying to fix it now.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:59 PM   #25
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It sounds like it thinks it doesn't have 120 volts to the unit. I'd check the button panel continuity just to be sure that isn't it.

You have 120 volts to all the proper places on the board, right? Except the element terminals of course.
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSW View Post
When I turn it on...press Auto, nothing happens for a few seconds then it tries to ignite the propane (which I have turned off)

Also, I get no 120v 0n the pins to the heater.
Wouldn't be the first time there was a loose connection in the eyebrow board . i would pull that and make sure all connections are made . if you have ac volts , fuse is good , heating element is good ,then it's either wiring or the lower circuit board .
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:38 PM   #27
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Check the GFI in the bathroom it might be tripped!


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Old 07-11-2016, 04:14 PM   #28
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Thanks for the input but I have plugged the fridge into an extension cord directly into the house.....and I read 120 v on the PWC input terminals.
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