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Old 06-28-2016, 04:04 PM   #1
GSW
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Dometic fridge not working on 120 volts

My Dometic fridge does not work on 120v. ok on propane DM2852RBFX

120 volts read at J5 & J6. All fuses ok. No 120 v at J7 & J8. Replaced card 50-965201-E...still does not work.

Does heater element have to be plugged in to J7 and J8 to read 120v at those terminals?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Gordon
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:34 PM   #2
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Looking at the schematic, I don't think you'll read 120v between pins J7 & J8.
You'll probably need to read voltage between J7 and ground -or- J8 and ground.

J7 & J8 are where the 120v element plugs onto the board and appears to be the same line at that point. I assume it goes to ground inside the control board somewhere to turn it on and off.

Also, does the heating element have continuity/resistance?
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Old 06-28-2016, 04:44 PM   #3
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I forgot to mention that when I turn on the fridge 120v should appear at terminals J7 & J8...based on the trouble shooting guide. I have also bought a new heating element..still not working.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:20 PM   #4
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When you turn the fridge on, and put it in Auto, and it sees 120 volts on J5 & J6, and it's calling for cool, it should have 120 volts on J7 & J8. I'm not sure if the board looks for continuity thru the element, but I suspect that it doesn't.

Did you replace the board with a Dometic part or the Dinosaur board?

Also, did you test the fuses with a meter? If not they could be blown and not look like it.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:38 PM   #5
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My brand new Flagstaff 29KSWS with the Dometic refrigerator didn't work on 120 vac when we went out on my first trip. I got the flashing error code. I was ready to haul it down to my dealer for repairs after checking fuses which were ok. I decided to pop the cover off on the outside access before I committed to the 150 mile round trip. What I found was that the AC power was never plugged into the outlet. Needless to say I was upset after paying for the initial setup and almost making the long trip. Their service department got a piece of my mind. It may not be your problem, but sometimes it's the easy fix.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:45 PM   #6
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Replacement board is Dometic. Checked fuses with a meter..all ok.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:59 PM   #7
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So you replaced the board and the heater element and you're still not getting 120 volts between J7 & J8?

Check between J5 & J7 to see if you get 120 volts. That'll tell you if the neutral is good thru J7. Then check between J6 & J8.

Report back what you find.
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Old 06-29-2016, 06:15 PM   #8
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120v between j5 and j7. 120v between both sides of 5 amp fuse to j6 and j7

Nothing between j7 and j8 or j6 and j8. looks like neutral is good but hot side not being closed between 5 amp fuse and j8....relay not activated?
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Old 06-30-2016, 04:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSW View Post
120v between j5 and j7. 120v between both sides of 5 amp fuse to j6 and j7

Nothing between j7 and j8 or j6 and j8. looks like neutral is good but hot side not being closed between 5 amp fuse and j8....relay not activated?
That's what it's looking like. Is the relay integral to the board that you replaced, or is it separate?
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Old 06-30-2016, 05:54 PM   #10
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Relay is PWC mounted.
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