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Old 08-25-2013, 07:23 PM   #1
rce
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Dometic Fridge Propane problems

Don't know where to start! Tried out for the first time Dometic DM2652 fridge on propane while towing. Worked perfect on way to campground (one hour).

On return trip left campground with it running as it should on propane. had been connected to power all weekend so supposedly battery charged. Got home an hour later and and the CHECK light was on. Ran stove to make sure gas was good, it was. Checked battery indicator in bathroom which said battery was dead and sure enough no 12 volt lights! Battery tester indicates 12 to 12.5 volts. Charging battery on my battery tender as I write this. Water levels good.

Could the battery be bad (new last fall)? Or charging system from truck? Does the fridge on propane draw that much current to kill a battery that quick? Fridge was working fine on 120 volts.

Don't know where to start with getting the fridge checked, or the battery or the truck or all three! Trailer is Forest River Surveyor Ultralight 186
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:30 PM   #2
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Another clue is fridge would start at home if propane stove was running. And turn off when stove was turned off. If stove not running then endless clicking heard.

Trailer is 2009 model.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:44 PM   #3
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To draw a good battery from full to dead in a weekend, would be a "big" load.... were multiple lights left on all weekend? Did someone pull the cable on the "emergency" brake (about the worse thing that you can do to an RV battery)? Was the "condensation" heater turned on, on the fridge doors (big draw)? Any other power hogs?
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #4
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...Could the battery be bad (new last fall)? Or charging system from truck? Does the fridge on propane draw that much current to kill a battery that quick? Fridge was working fine on 120 volts...
To answer the question about the frig running the battery down that fast is NO. The frig uses minimal 12v for ignition of the burner and holding the gas valve open and you have to remember the burner is not on very long at a time, maybe 15 minutes to maintain the temperature.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:22 PM   #5
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To draw a good battery from full to dead in a weekend, would be a "big" load.... were multiple lights left on all weekend? Did someone pull the cable on the "emergency" brake (about the worse thing that you can do to an RV battery)? Was the "condensation" heater turned on, on the fridge doors (big draw)? Any other power hogs?
Actually I was hooked up to 120V electricity all weekend. I assume the battery was being charged. No problems whatsoever over the weekend. Battery seemed dead at home so wondering if the propane fridge could drain a battery that fast if not being properly charged as I drove? I suppose I'm not certain the battery was working well over the weekend as the trailer was hooked up to 120v & everything seemed to be working.

I'm also wondering if truck wasn't charging the battery as I drove?

By emergency brake you mean the breakaway cable? Wouldn't that lock the trailer brakes?
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:31 PM   #6
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The breakaway cable "locks" the brakes by applying a VERY heavy electrical load to them. It'll drain a good battery in a very short time, and may cause damage to the coils and electronics in the brake system. This should NEVER be used as an emergency brake, though we often see posts from folks who, because they weren't told differently, tried....

Otherwise, it sounds like either the 120v to 12v converter isn't charging your battery, or you had another very heavy 12v load drawing it down.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #7
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do you have a two way fridge (110v & propane) or a three-way (110v, 12v, & propane)?
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #8
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I think the "Climate Control" was turned on on the fridge, forgot all about that! But would that really draw so heavily while driving that the battery would not be sufficiently charged by the truck as I drove and go dead in anhour? Or maybe my truck doesn't charge the battery as I drive as I assumed?

Actually what is "Climate Control" on this fridge and should I just leave it off?
Really hoping that was the culprit but not too optomistic as l never experienced my battery discharge like that. I take really good care of it too!
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:50 PM   #9
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do you have a two way fridge (110v & propane) or a three-way (110v, 12v, & propane)?
Pretty sure it is 2 way 110v & propane only. No 12v or DC setting anywhere. Manual is quite uselss. I did have it set on LP gas only mode when I left for home.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:02 PM   #10
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Don't know where to start! Tried out for the first time Dometic DM2652 fridge on propane while towing. Worked perfect on way to campground (one hour).

On return trip left campground with it running as it should on propane. had been connected to power all weekend so supposedly battery charged. Got home an hour later and and the CHECK light was on. Ran stove to make sure gas was good, it was. Checked battery indicator in bathroom which said battery was dead and sure enough no 12 volt lights! Battery tester indicates 12 to 12.5 volts. Charging battery on my battery tender as I write this. Water levels good.

Could the battery be bad (new last fall)? Or charging system from truck? Does the fridge on propane draw that much current to kill a battery that quick? Fridge was working fine on 120 volts.

Don't know where to start with getting the fridge checked, or the battery or the truck or all three! Trailer is Forest River Surveyor Ultra light 186

RCE, Your fridge is a duel power fridge. Electric (110) or propane. To run the controls on the fridge you will need 12v power. At the camp ground the 'converter' will change electricity to 12v to run your Domestic controls, you do not need a battery to run the 12v systems in the camper since the converter is taking that over. imo your battery was never 'charging' while you were on your camping trip. Do you have a disconnect and it was 'disconnected' from the batt. Your towing unit in the connection power cable has a wire to 'charge your battery going down the road. If the battery was dead when you got home... same thing, wire off batt. or disconnect somewhere. When you unplugged the 110 at the campground the propane will auto switch over and try to light the propane. The 'switch over' is powered by 12v power.... no power (12v batt or 12v coming from converter) then the 12v igniter can not light and the propane 'valve' can not be opened (which is a good thing)

Find out if you had a loose batt wire or a disconnect was off or a fuse is popped and needs to be changed or reset.

To check to see if the converter is charging the batt. Disconnect your batt. (have wires not touching each other or any metal part) Plug into 110 and take a volt meter and check for 14v coming from the convertor. If there is not power (12v) coming from the converter, narrow down the causes.
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