Dometic Fridge short! Power Converter over charging?
Hi my name is Dave, I own a 2013 Flagstaff v-lite wfkss 35ft Diamond package. I have been having troubles with my dometic frigerator. found the problem to be the switch door switch, which also has a heater wire connected. I un plug the wire from the board and it works fine. I was told to check the converter, for AC not DC power, by checking the terminals on the battery with my multi meter. it shows 29 .the technician told me that that is way too high. where is the converter located on my camper?
all my lights and everything in the camper are working fine. I have been hooked up the shore power for about 4 months.battery shows 13.8 volts when I hooked up the shore power for DC.when I unhook shore power it shows 13.8 still.
Not familiar with your trailer. Hopefully somebody who is will chime in. If not, you should be able to trace the cables from your battery or relay back to your inverter ?
Hi my name is Dave, I own a 2013 Flagstaff v-lite wfkss 35ft Diamond package. I have been having troubles with my dometic frigerator. found the problem to be the switch door switch, which also has a heater wire connected. I un plug the wire from the board and it works fine. I was told to check the converter, for AC not DC power, by checking the terminals on the battery with my multi meter. it shows 29 .the technician told me that that is way too high. where is the converter located on my camper?
Dave, I have a rockwood same family, just about all the converts are located at floor level, you have a black cover over it you should see a colored see thur area, press that in and the top half of the door opens, mine is at the door on the right, yours could be there or in that area or look around the refrigerator or at the bottoms of your cabinets.
all my lights and everything in the camper are working fine. I have been hooked up the shore power for about 4 months.battery shows 13.8 volts when I hooked up the shore power for DC.when I unhook shore power it shows 13.8 still.
If you are getting 13.8 unplugged you are overcharging your battery. You should have a WFCO converter 3 stage. it will charge at 14.4 then absorption at 13.6 (when you use your 12v) float is at 13.2, but you can not have any current draw for 21 hrs for it to drop 13.2. You might have a bad convertor. Also check your water in the battery....
Is it 29 or 13.8? It can't be both and doesn't sound like the converter to me. Sound like a switch or control board problem. If the converter is providing 13.8 then it is working ok, but you may want to check the water in your batts.
If you are getting 13.8 unplugged you are overcharging your battery. You should have a WFCO converter 3 stage. it will charge at 14.4 then absorption at 13.6 (when you use your 12v) float is at 13.2, but you can not have any current draw for 21 hrs for it to drop 13.2. You might have a bad convertor. Also check your water in the battery....
Correction, it should be 14.4 bulk at max amps, 14.4 absorbtion at decreasing amps till about 2 amps, or so and the float at 12.3 or so. The 13.8 is typical of many float chargers, but a bit high I agree and will most likely bubble the water out over time.
Still do not see how that could affect the refrigerator tho, it still sounds like a switch or control board on the frig to me.
That, hoever still does not explain the OP's problem IMO.
A proper charging algorithm for the ABS portion for flooded cells should be more like 14.4 v until the charging amps drop pretty low (usually a couple hours). It makes no sense to expect 13.6 volts to do anything after the bulk charge.
Ok thanks. Well the Dometis guy had me check at the battery with my multi meter by putting the multi meter on AC-V on that it measured 29 hooked to shore power. When you check it for DC it is 13.8 without shore power still 13.8 DC. He said there is a so called reverb back from the converter. This all started when my fridfe lights started blinking back and forth when I shut or open the door. I changed out tge board after a rv tech checked all power coming and going and all was good. But that still never fixed it. When I took the far left wire that goes to the switch off it now works. The light starts dim and tgen glows bright and fridge works good and gas. But when I hook the wire up then the lights flicker and fridge will not work on gas or electric. All you here is clicking at tge board relay switch
That, hoever still does not explain the OP's problem IMO.
A proper charging algorithm for the ABS portion for flooded cells should be more like 14.4 v until the charging amps drop pretty low (usually a couple hours). It makes no sense to expect 13.6 volts to do anything after the bulk charge.
To much information, probably, but there it is.
Which is one reason I recommend a progressive dynamics.
Which is one reason I recommend a progressive dynamics.
TURBS
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X's 2 on Progressive. In storage mine stays on 13.2 when I switched to progressive 4 stage. My water has not boiled or gassed out since. plus you have the desalination or cleaning of the plates every 21 hrs. for 15 mins @ 14.4. to pro long your batteries. To me the OP problem is over charging plus a bad board. the wire he is pulling off is the humidity switch I think.
Below the fridge inside I have the power panel but no door for converter
you have to have a convertor some where i guess they hide it pretty good. May be someone who has your unit will chime in, if not call your dealer and ask him where it is located.
me tinks there is confusion between the fridge control board and the Power Converter which is part of or close to the circuit breaker/fuse box. TURBS is showing the power converter and the OP is showing the back of the fridge.
Regardless of the fridge issue, the converter should probable be replaced with a Progressive unit.
The fridge issue still makes no sense to me... Not that that is unusual, I am frequently confused by this stuff.
me tinks there is confusion between the fridge control board and the Power Converter which is part of or close to the circuit breaker/fuse box. TURBS is showing the power converter and the OP is showing the back of the fridge.
Regardless of the fridge issue, the converter should probable be replaced with a Progressive unit.
The fridge issue still makes no sense to me... Not that that is unusual, I am frequently confused by this stuff.
See now im confused I though he was having a fridge issue as well as a converter issue.
So maybe I'm the dumb one eh?
So is he talking about the fridge board calling it a converter?
See now im confused I though he was having a fridge issue as well as a converter issue.
So maybe I'm the dumb one eh?
So is he talking about the fridge board calling it a converter?
TURBS
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Turbs I think he thought that was the convertor, is the way it seems to me. I think that is what he found and thought that was the convertor, He really has two problems. The high voltage problem probably caused the refer problem to begin with, thats why it works when he pulls that wire off. just a guess but that is what I read and see.
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