Dometic on propane, not lighting.

[ArmyAV8R]

2010 Camper with 2010 Dometic elec and gas fridge. Cools perfectly in elec mode; this is newly purchased for me and first attempt to apply gas to fridge.
Bottle is on, small knurled brass knob on gas line is parallel to the gas line, when on/off pressed, clicking, I guess attempts to ignite, no joy. Did this several times to ensure air is purged, even cracked gas line fitting and there’s gas to that point. Downstream of main hex gas line connection here is the knurled knob then a recessed allen-head screw.....tried to “break” it....seems crazy tight, didn’t force the issue, so it remains as is. Could that Allen wrench set screw be shutting gas flow downstream? I do not smell any gas during any start attempts....shouldn’t I smell some......?

Any other thoughts.
- Bryant

[gbaldwin]

Stove top is likely nearby. Light it and let it run a minute or two. Often takes a bit to purge air out of gas lines. Now try fridge again on Gas.

[5picker]

It often takes a crazy amount of purging to get gas to the refrigerator on some models.

I had a SOB (some other brand) that would take sometimes 10 ignition tries to get it to fire on gas. You had to just keep trying, then all was OK once purged.

You should be able to check for voltage at the gas solenoid at the back of the refrigerator. It could be the control board isn't letting the valve open.

[ArmyAV8R]

Purged stove; lights fine.
I just don’t hear any igniter popping, as with my hot water heater...? Should I be?
And I presuming that this is no manually lighted pilot...? Owners manual confirms what you all say. I’ll keep trying.
But I can break the brass nut at brass line, there’s gas. There is an Allen set screw just downstream from there that I can’t budge.

[5picker]

Give us the model # of the fridge.

I assumed it was DSI ignition but... and yes on those with auto light you hear sparking just like your water heater.

[gbaldwin]

HMMM... IDK.... Just as a trial and error..... You are trying to run it in ths GAS mode in which there is no light that comes ON when in this mode. The button is either OUT or IN. to be in Gas mode, which bypassses electric. I always run in auto mode.....I would put it in AUTO mode and unplug my trailer for a few minutes... 15-20..... Lack of power will call for GAS operation. If gass is not getting there... the next time the thermostat calls for cooling, your CHECK light will come ON.

[Iwannacamp]

FWIW I would not be worried about taking anything apart right now. My figuring is not gas flow... its electric/mechanical in the refer controls. I don't guess you can manually try and light the flame as it is lighting? I would try that to help eliminate some of the issues. It could be "losing" the spark along the way...I had a electronic spark ignition leaking at a boot on my WH... corrected and fire went to the appropriate place.

[ArmyAV8R]

2010. DM2652RB1

There is no clicking or popping like HWH, just almost immediate amber check light.

It runs just fine on electricity. I’ll just hold to that’s until I get to Fort Hood. Thank you, Fellas.

[gbaldwin]

Be interested in knowing the outcome on this. Please post. My understanding, (and I have been wrong) is that when driving down the road and if gas is not working, your fridge is not cooling. It will hold cool temps for a for long time (6-8 hours or more) if not opening. We always leave in auto which runs off power if plugged in and auto switches to gas if power is not plugged in the genny or shore power. Gas driven when on the road.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by ArmyAV8R

2010. DM2652RB1

There is no clicking or popping like HWH, just almost immediate amber check light.

It runs just fine on electricity. I’ll just hold to that’s until I get to Fort Hood. Thank you, Fellas.

It is a two way (gas/electric) with DSI ignition.
It should spark like your water heater.

I know they had issues with what is called the 'brow board' (the part with the on/off/gas switches) as my brother had to replace two of those in a R/V that had that same refrigerator.
It would get condensation on the board from cooling in high humidity areas.


Here is a link to the manual (with some troubleshooting guides) in case you don't have it.

Dometic Refrigerator Manual

Here is an excerpt...
GAS MODE
When operating in the GAS mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off. This mode provides LP gas operation only. The control system will activate the ignition
system and will make three attempts to light the burner for
a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes a period of approximately 45 seconds with two minutes (purge) interval after each trial. If unsuccessful, the
CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate. To restart GAS
operation, press the main power ON/OFF button (1) to
the OFF and then ON position. The control system will
attempt a new ignition sequence. If the refrigerator has
not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just
been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To
purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main
power ON/OFF button (1) three or four times. If repeated
attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make
sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all
manual shutoff valves in the lines are turned on.

[JLeising]

I recently experienced a problem with my Dometic 2 way fridge not running on gas. Turned out to be a failed gas solenoid coil. Yours may well be a different problem, but it easy to check - unplug the two wires to the solenoid coil and check the coil with an ohmmeter. Mine was open. I posted my experience:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ed-183221.html

[BobHanke]

Especially at the beginning of each season and any time this problem shows up in fridge or hot water heater, check to be sure insects haven't set up house keeping and blocking the chamber.

[ArmyAV8R]

I will indeed reply with the solution.
I get gas all the to the big brass hex nut. There is an inset Allen head screw that I can’t budge. Makes me wonder. Just prior to that Allen screw is a small knurled knob that I’ve ensured is open...at least according to the OFF inscribed on line.
I hear no popping of ignition so I’m thinking it’s electrical....board, hell I guess.
I can the hair off of Army helicopters and fix most stuff, but testing electrical will likely compel a visit to an “expert”....

[Scrapper]

Don't try turning that allen screw. It is a factory pressure test port used to adjust the pressure of gas flow.


Attached is the service manual.

[JLeising]

Originally Posted by ArmyAV8R

I hear no popping of ignition so I’m thinking it’s electrical....board, hell I guess.
I can the hair off of Army helicopters and fix most stuff, but testing electrical will likely compel a visit to an “expert”....

When the solenoid coil failed on mine (see post #11) I also did not hear “popping of ignition “.

FYI, Jim

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by ArmyAV8R

I will indeed reply with the solution.

I get gas all the to the big brass hex nut. There is an inset Allen head screw that I can’t budge. Makes me wonder. Just prior to that Allen screw is a small knurled knob that I’ve ensured is open...at least according to the OFF inscribed on line.

I hear no popping of ignition so I’m thinking it’s electrical....board, hell I guess.

I can the hair off of Army helicopters and fix most stuff, but testing electrical will likely compel a visit to an “expert”....

I gotta ask....

I can the hair off???

[twohand]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

I gotta ask....

I can the hair off???

X2