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Old 07-13-2008, 10:07 PM   #1
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Dometic Refrigerator Question - Need Advice

Have an 05 Wildwood, very lightly used, and this weekend we replaced the Dometic main board with a Dinosaur board to improve the performance of the Dometic refrigerator. This unit has probably only been used about 12 times, including the original owner's usage and ours. Reason for the replacement: our sucky Dometic RM2852 2-way refirgerator did not have a temperature setpoint adjustment, (thanks Forest River for sourcing the worst piece of crap possible), which the Dinosaur board offers instead as an upgrade.

We did notice an improvement after the normal 12 hour cool-down period. We are reading 40 deg F in the refrigerator compartment with an outside temp of 94 deg f and 90 % RH, which is pretty hot and humid.

Is this par for the course? The freezer is working fine, by the way, but we would like to see a cooler fridge compartment temperature. The new replacement board is set to maximum cooling, by the way.

The reason I ask this is that some folks on Ebay sell a replacement cooling unit (a pre-charged evap coil/accumulator assembly), but I do not want to have to spend that, or take my refrigerator completely apart and replace that, if the performance I am seeing is typical.

Note this excerpt from the Ebay posting, that caught my eye: "Now with both cooling units going with the temps outside in the 100 degree range, competitors unit is on the border at 40 to 42 degrees no thermostat left with it now on max, Amish built cooling units with the special tubing process and the priority charging formulas has the in side food zone at 38 degree's an still not at a max setting still room to make it colder. With the special tubing process it gives a faster flow of ammonia so it has the ability to remove more heat from the inside of the refrigerator."

Sounds like puffery to me, but I want to ask those in this forum if they have checked their fridges and how well they work in the hot summer heat. Again, the Dinosaur replacement board seemed to be a big help, but not sure what to expect...
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:54 AM   #2
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There should be a damper control in the fridge section, mine is located on the right hand side. This damper controls controls the amount of cold air that drops down from the freezer section. This how the refrigerator cools. The temp is pre-set and can not be changed, the more the damper is open the more cold air will fall. RV refrigerator are not like the one you have at home. The RV fridge are absorption systems, they use R-717 (Ammonia) to remove heat. Some people add fans in the vent to force air in the back of the fridge to speed up the cooling process. It can take as much as 36 hours to get the fridge section at normal operating temps. Your fridge at home uses a compressor and the refrigerant is different, some have R-134a, use to be R-12 back in the day and a fan is used on the bottom coil under the fridge which is the evaporator coil, temps are adjustable in your home refrigerators. Normal operating temps in a fridge are between 34 degrees on the low end and NO higher then 45 degrees on the high end. 40 degrees is good. So look for the damper control, make sure it is open all the way.
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Old 07-14-2008, 02:44 PM   #3
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My new Dometic 2 door frige cools to 40 in the bottom and freezes cubes fairly
effortlessly and keeps ice-cream OK.
I'm satisfied.
In order to get really cold beer we use freezable plastic mugs that have liquid
in them kinda like those blue ice packs.
The mugs work great. I can get a 40 deg beer and pour it into a mug and get
ice on top in a couple minutes.
That's cold enough for me!!!
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Old 07-14-2008, 08:01 PM   #4
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Camping World sells a small Battery operated Fan that is made to put on the bottom slelve of the fridge to circulate the air upward. Since the cold air falls and hot air rises this might help.Just a thought.
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:11 PM   #5
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Red face

Thanks everyone, and especially for the damper control tip.

Maybe we have been expecting too much. Again, the replacement with the new Dinosaur Electronics Micro p-711 motherboard with an adj. temp setpoint made a 5 deg F difference, since we are no longer suffering with the fixed resistor setpoint that came on the OEM board (although it appears to have been working as designed, for what it's worth).

Stayed up into the wee hours last night reading up on this and saw many similar postings about Dometic gripes, including several on the Airstream forum and elsewhere. But I did find 2 cool products that can enhance the performance of your RV fridge, one of which is available from Wal-mart.com or your local RV dealer. The other is a kit made by an independent company. Here are the links, in case they help anyone, but I will be trying the damper control thing, if my fridge has one (and we tried the battery fan already, seems to work pretty good, see link #3 for what some other guy did).

1. Camco Solar-powered Refrigerator Vent Fan at Walmart.com:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=7964409


2. Snyders Universal Cooling Kit:

http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/2301.html

(This vent fan idea makes a lot of sense to me, especially in hot climates such as Florida. If the condensor is exposed to hot outside conditions, it really can't cool the refrigerant very well with just natural convection.).

3. Some guy Made a Fan/Light switch Combo Dealie:

http://http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/hints.htm

Hope this helps. Thanks again for your tips.
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Old 07-15-2008, 05:25 PM   #6
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Thanks for the links!!

PS. My dometic 2 door has no damper nor any air passage between
the top and bottom compartments.
BUT it has a decal on the inside wall of the lower compartment with
an arrow going from "cold to warm" like there could have been one.
Odd that they put in the decal on models with no damper.....
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:12 PM   #7
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This is a pic of my Dometic fridge on the in side where the damper control is. This a left handed fridge and the damper control is on the upper right hand side. The model number is RM-2652 and this model made the recall list just before we left for Myrtle Beach, If you look close at the white plastic slide you will see a white wire attached to the bottom and go's out of the back of the fridge, this is what controls the damper action on this model.
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:12 AM   #8
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It's really hard to see in this photo but I think that white wire you refer to
is the thermostat sensor.
It looks to me like you are merely moving the sensor up or down on the cooling fin.
I suppose that might cause the fridge to sense slightly more heat or cool depending
on if it were located near the top or bottom of that cooling fin.
My sensor is attached to the wire shelf you show in the photo.

Are you sure you have an actual damper door that opens and closes???????
Can you see it?
My freezer is separated from the lower compartment. It is totally sealed.
In fact the freezer door often gets vacuum locked and is difficult to pull open.

Today 8 AM we go for our Dometic recall repair and immediately after that
we bug out for 3 days.
Happy camping!!!!!
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Old 07-16-2008, 07:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I suppose that might cause the fridge to sense slightly more heat or cool depending on if it were located near the top or bottom of that cooling fin.
That's the premise. You can move the thermistor up or down and even over a few fins to adjust the fridge temp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
My sensor is attached to the wire shelf you show in the photo.
Sounds like they just put it in the wrong place. AFAIK it should be on the fins for it to work properly. Of course, you can't argue with success. If it's working good you might want to leave it alone.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #10
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My unit is four years old with 11 weeks of summer here camoing every other weekend .IT IS SHOT, over heated due to metal tape below the top vent lossend up covered the hole and over heated the frig. Has any one had the same problem?.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
It's really hard to see in this photo but I think that white wire you refer to
is the thermostat sensor.
It looks to me like you are merely moving the sensor up or down on the cooling fin.
I suppose that might cause the fridge to sense slightly more heat or cool depending
on if it were located near the top or bottom of that cooling fin.
My sensor is attached to the wire shelf you show in the photo.

Are you sure you have an actual damper door that opens and closes???????
Can you see it?
My freezer is separated from the lower compartment. It is totally sealed.
In fact the freezer door often gets vacuum locked and is difficult to pull open.

Today 8 AM we go for our Dometic recall repair and immediately after that
we bug out for 3 days.
Happy camping!!!!!
KyDan - thanks for clearing that up and saying it is the thermistor and not a damper control. Check yesterday's discussion about thermistors for a lot more discussion about this.
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwood06 View Post
This is a pic of my Dometic fridge on the in side where the damper control is. This a left handed fridge and the damper control is on the upper right hand side. The model number is RM-2652 and this model made the recall list just before we left for Myrtle Beach, If you look close at the white plastic slide you will see a white wire attached to the bottom and go's out of the back of the fridge, this is what controls the damper action on this model.
Do a search for Thermistor and you will find a lot of good discussion about them. I believe what you have in your photo is a thermistor and if you push it all the way up on the fin (be sure the cable is under the sliding sleeve) it should bring the frig tenp down and if you slide it down, the frig temp should get warmer.
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