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Old 07-13-2015, 12:11 AM   #21
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You need food and beverages In the fridge for it to work properly.


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Old 07-13-2015, 12:55 AM   #22
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Why does this forum log me out in less than 10 minutes.

I do have the fridge door full of liquids. I do not see the point of putting good food in a fridge that is as inconsistent as this one is. It would only ruin. And I really do not want to put cold food in the fridge, because that would artificially lower the temperature in the fridge.

Besides my fridge in my previous Wildcat was never kept full and anytime I wanted a cold drink, they were pretty cool.

My wife wants me to buy a new refrigerator, but the cooling unit is working or the Freezer would not get as cold as it gets.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:57 AM   #23
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Thank You Turbs for all your input. I do not mean to rain on a parade, but I want to find the true problem and learn from the experience.
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:00 AM   #24
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One day it is working about the way I feel it should and the next day it is like an oven. I would like to get some consistency.
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:12 AM   #25
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http://youtu.be/oIJYx5j2nPQ

Try these video's Ford has about 20 something video's good stuff.
Ford is the best for help
I did add a fan on the rear of the fridge under the cooling coils.
I'm getting 32 deg. In the fridge.


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Old 07-13-2015, 10:00 PM   #26
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Temperatures at 5:45 PM today were 3 degrees F in the freezer and 52 degrees F in the fridge. I disconnected the thermister at the control board and placed the thermister element in a glass of ice water ("More ice than water"). I checked the ohms and got a reading of 9.14. I thought there was a mistake or a bad meter. I searched for answers and for a known resistance to measure. Finally I realized that the heating element was right there and I knew it was working because the freezer is getting cold like it should. So I measured the resistance and it came to 44 ohms; I stepped up to the next scale and it was 44.1 ohms.

I concluded the reading on the thermister is correct and that the thermister is bad.

Do you folks recommend using the Snip the Tip repair or should I get an exact replacement thermister. Thanks again for all your assistance.
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Old 07-14-2015, 11:09 PM   #27
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Well I never claimed to be the sharpest needle in the haystack, but after posting the information in the previous post, I thought I turned the unit back on. But I left it off and realized that at 8:00 AM. I turned the unit back on using 120V. The outside temp was in the upper 90s today. At 4:00 this afternoon, the Freezer was 8 degrees F and the refrigerator section was at 68 degrees F. After reading some more information, I believe the cooling unit is not working in the refrigerator area. I will probably get more information from the unit tomorrow and order a new cooling unit.

Thanks for your assistance. I will update needed information after the fridge is working correctly again.
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:42 PM   #28
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http://youtu.be/txqAHaTpexc
Try this


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Old 07-18-2015, 04:46 PM   #29
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Might want to check he thermometer I've had ones give you false readings. Later RJD
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:56 PM   #30
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Make sure the fridge condensation tube has a u in it or pee trap shape so warm air from outside can't make it into the fridge compartment. I'd also add a circulation fan to the inside fridge compartment so circulate air throughout the fridge. Also put some bottles of water in it to help hold the cold in the fridge. If there is no pee trap in your drain line warm air can raise the fridge temp 10 deg. Also make sure the fridge drain line isn't cracked and rooted out causing warm air to enter the fridge. Also make sure the fridge light is really going off when you shut the door.
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