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Old 07-12-2015, 11:11 PM   #21
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You need food and beverages In the fridge for it to work properly.


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Old 07-12-2015, 11:55 PM   #22
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Why does this forum log me out in less than 10 minutes.

I do have the fridge door full of liquids. I do not see the point of putting good food in a fridge that is as inconsistent as this one is. It would only ruin. And I really do not want to put cold food in the fridge, because that would artificially lower the temperature in the fridge.

Besides my fridge in my previous Wildcat was never kept full and anytime I wanted a cold drink, they were pretty cool.

My wife wants me to buy a new refrigerator, but the cooling unit is working or the Freezer would not get as cold as it gets.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:57 PM   #23
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Thank You Turbs for all your input. I do not mean to rain on a parade, but I want to find the true problem and learn from the experience.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:00 AM   #24
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One day it is working about the way I feel it should and the next day it is like an oven. I would like to get some consistency.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:12 AM   #25
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http://youtu.be/oIJYx5j2nPQ

Try these video's Ford has about 20 something video's good stuff.
Ford is the best for help
I did add a fan on the rear of the fridge under the cooling coils.
I'm getting 32 deg. In the fridge.


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Old 07-13-2015, 09:00 PM   #26
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Temperatures at 5:45 PM today were 3 degrees F in the freezer and 52 degrees F in the fridge. I disconnected the thermister at the control board and placed the thermister element in a glass of ice water ("More ice than water"). I checked the ohms and got a reading of 9.14. I thought there was a mistake or a bad meter. I searched for answers and for a known resistance to measure. Finally I realized that the heating element was right there and I knew it was working because the freezer is getting cold like it should. So I measured the resistance and it came to 44 ohms; I stepped up to the next scale and it was 44.1 ohms.

I concluded the reading on the thermister is correct and that the thermister is bad.

Do you folks recommend using the Snip the Tip repair or should I get an exact replacement thermister. Thanks again for all your assistance.
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Old 07-14-2015, 10:09 PM   #27
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Well I never claimed to be the sharpest needle in the haystack, but after posting the information in the previous post, I thought I turned the unit back on. But I left it off and realized that at 8:00 AM. I turned the unit back on using 120V. The outside temp was in the upper 90s today. At 4:00 this afternoon, the Freezer was 8 degrees F and the refrigerator section was at 68 degrees F. After reading some more information, I believe the cooling unit is not working in the refrigerator area. I will probably get more information from the unit tomorrow and order a new cooling unit.

Thanks for your assistance. I will update needed information after the fridge is working correctly again.
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:42 PM   #28
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http://youtu.be/txqAHaTpexc
Try this


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Old 07-18-2015, 03:46 PM   #29
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Might want to check he thermometer I've had ones give you false readings. Later RJD
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Old 07-18-2015, 03:56 PM   #30
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Make sure the fridge condensation tube has a u in it or pee trap shape so warm air from outside can't make it into the fridge compartment. I'd also add a circulation fan to the inside fridge compartment so circulate air throughout the fridge. Also put some bottles of water in it to help hold the cold in the fridge. If there is no pee trap in your drain line warm air can raise the fridge temp 10 deg. Also make sure the fridge drain line isn't cracked and rooted out causing warm air to enter the fridge. Also make sure the fridge light is really going off when you shut the door.
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:19 PM   #31
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Had problems with mine and took over a year to get it replaced. Never worked from the 1st trip out. The temps were high a lot. Like up to 48 hours at 53. Makes camping not fun when things don't work. Have more issues again with mine. Not frig but A/C now.
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:49 PM   #32
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Thank You Guys so much for the information and guidance. I have pretty much narrowed the problems down to two.

First I decided one day to put my unit on gas and just see if that would help. Four hours later, the temp in my refrigerator had dropped to 36 degrees F from a starting point of 51 degrees F. Meaning it is not the cooling unit but the electrical heating on the unit (second problem).

So I got the Dometic diagnostic guide and started reading word-for-word instead of scanning thru. I had already found that the thermister was not reading the ohms it should be. So I had ordered a new one. Previously, I had measured the ohms resistance on the heating element, but I did not go any further. This time I did an amp check and found it was not drawing but 2.2 amps. Then I checked the voltage to the element and found it to be at the 105 volts area.

Further checking shows that the power supply the trailer is plugged into is where the low voltage problem begins. Meaning I need higher voltage to operate the heater (first problem).

So I have that problem to fix and order a new element to make my final repairs. Meanwhile my thermister has arrived and i will install that when I make the other repairs.

You know the old adage "If at first you don't succeed, read the instructions.

Thanks again for not giving up on my problem.
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Old 07-23-2015, 05:12 PM   #33
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Our Hemisphere has a Dometic fridge with a "automatic refrigerator temperature control"
It's either Auto or Gas. Not familiar with this type. Our other one was a 3-way with a temperature control, so I'm not sure if this is an upgrade or not? When it's in the 'Auto'
mode does this mean that it automatically switches from AC to DC as needed? And the temperature is pre-determined and pre-set at the factory? I'm not sure about this one,
it's larger (our other one was in a Hi-Lo trailer) but not to sure about the controls, or lack thereof.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:04 PM   #34
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I do not know anything about "automatic refrigerator temperature control" so I can not speak to that. The Auto or Gas switch you are referring to controls the heating method. When it is on "Auto" it will check for AC electrical power and will switch to electric if available. In AC electric is not available, it will switch to gas until AC becomes available and switch back to AC. If you place this switch on gas (or off of "Auto) it will power the gas supply and operate the refrigerator on gas. In order for either to work, you must have 12V power to the controls.
Mine has a temperature control has # 1 thru 5 choices with # 5 being the coldest.
Hope this helps.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:28 PM   #35
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My domestic fridge just doesn't stay cool. Had it to dealer twice now and they say it's fine. It will get down in the 30s but can't seem to keep things cool.

Added the interior fan this trip but not sure that has made a difference. Can't get fridge below 46 last two days. Only 85 outside and with AC running 74 in the camper.

Suggestions?
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:03 AM   #36
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That is what mine did only at 1st it would stay at 53 for up to 48 hours. Changed mother boards and then it would be like 46 for many hours. Took over a year but finally got a new one. Have only used 1 time since but will see this next week. Mine is a 4 door RM1350 MX. Found clear back to 2009 that people had the same problem with the same frig. Dometic has to know so why don't they change something.
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:59 AM   #37
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OK, I guess I should read the instruction manual a little closer, the models with the "automatic temperature control" the thermostat is set at the factory. So I hope that's ok, makes me a little nervous not being able to manually adjust if needed or desired.
But will it run and cool when you're not connected to shore power and connected to your
TV driving down the road? Seems like it should/would, someway somehow?
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jas451 View Post
OK, I guess I should read the instruction manual a little closer, the models with the "automatic temperature control" the thermostat is set at the factory. So I hope that's ok, makes me a little nervous not being able to manually adjust if needed or desired.
But will it run and cool when you're not connected to shore power and connected to your
TV driving down the road? Seems like it should/would, someway somehow?
Yes, you just switch to gas operation and the unit will operate when being towed.
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:07 PM   #39
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Ours is too cold. I adjust the slide on the fin. The thermo (thing) is in the slide. Temp in fridge is sometimes 32, with freezer at -1 with food. Also after a week, fins freeze and freezer is frosted up. Normal? Even when it is in 90s.
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