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02-25-2015, 10:08 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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Electrical help needed!
Hello experts and those with more experience than myself!
I purchased a 2013 (brand new) Cascade Cherokee 27BH late in 2014. Haven't used it yet--it's been sitting in the heated shop all winter.
Here is my dilemma and corresponding questions:
1. Is there no battery shutoff switch? I can't find one.
2. Is there no onboard battery charger/alternator to charge from shore power and the TV? I can't find one on the frame anywhere. Is it, possibly, behind the electrical panel/fuse box inside the unit? If so, that is very hard to locate/access.
Larger issue: I have a second battery in the trailer now (because the original drained completely and my charger wouldn't recharge it) that is completely out of charge. Strangely, none of the electronics (including lights, etc) function with shore power, unless the battery is charged (in this case with jumper cables from the wife's rig). Shouldn't everything work without a battery if the trailer is connected to shore power? On my old trailer, I didn't have a battery in it at all--just plugged into power on site.
Any tips would be great! I haven't had time to call the tech at the dealer because I get home from work too late.
thanks!
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02-26-2015, 05:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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Unfortunately I'm not familiar with your TT so i can't give you specifics but... sounds like your converter isn't working. If you know where your breaker panel is, make sure all the breakers are on. Some converters need the battery or they will fry. I'm gonna guess that your converter is located behind the power panel.
Keep in mind that the electronics like the radio, tv amplifier & fridge need 12v from either the battery or converter to work as do the lights. The TV & microwave should work on shore power as they are 120v ac appliances. If your microwave works, then its likely the problem is in converter. Could be a blown fuse or tripped 120v breaker.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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02-26-2015, 05:59 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinstennes
Hello experts and those with more experience than myself!
I purchased a 2013 (brand new) Cascade Cherokee 27BH late in 2014. Haven't used it yet--it's been sitting in the heated shop all winter.
Here is my dilemma and corresponding questions:
1. Is there no battery shutoff switch? I can't find one.
2. Is there no onboard battery charger/alternator to charge from shore power and the TV? I can't find one on the frame anywhere. Is it, possibly, behind the electrical panel/fuse box inside the unit? If so, that is very hard to locate/access.
Larger issue: I have a second battery in the trailer now (because the original drained completely and my charger wouldn't recharge it) that is completely out of charge. Strangely, none of the electronics (including lights, etc) function with shore power, unless the battery is charged (in this case with jumper cables from the wife's rig). Shouldn't everything work without a battery if the trailer is connected to shore power? On my old trailer, I didn't have a battery in it at all--just plugged into power on site.
Any tips would be great! I haven't had time to call the tech at the dealer because I get home from work too late.
thanks!
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It sounds like your convertor is not working, from your description. Your lights would work if it was when plugged in. I'm not sure where yours is located, most are located under the fuse panel or behind it. Also not sure what convertor you have some will work without a battery and some will not. Need to find that puppy first. Call your dealer and ask him where it is, It has to have one that is also your charger.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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02-26-2015, 07:30 AM
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#4
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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You need to find out for sure if you have a battery cut off switch.
Albeit your dealer should have shown you during pdi.
You had a pdi right?
If there is no cut off then you have another issue.
Blown fuse?
Tripped breaker?
Bad converter?
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02-26-2015, 07:45 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,931
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As others have pointed out, your converter isn't being able to provide a charge to the battery or functioning correctly.
Here are some links that explain how the converter works:
RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)
There is also a possibility you blew your converters reverse polarity fuses when hooking up batteries (you stated you replaced the battery). It's very common to do this. Check this thread out, as it might help explain where the reverse polarity fuses are located for you to check:
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...vac-75089.html
Hope it's something that simple, and you get it all solved.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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02-26-2015, 09:53 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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Thanks for the pointers, all! I'll call the dealer today. I'm guessing the converter is behind the panel box. I did a PDI, but don't remember being shown a battery shutoff switch. I appreciate the help and I'm sure I'll have more questions arise!
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02-26-2015, 12:42 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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I will do some final testing, but it seems conclusive that my converter is bad. Unfortunately, the dealer is a 4 hour drive (3 mountain passes) to do warranty work. Good news is it will be covered--bad news is it's a long day and a lot of gas to get it there. And probably another round trip to go pick it up.
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02-26-2015, 12:52 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Palm Coast FL
Posts: 746
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Try to get the dealer have a time slot for you and have the part actually on hand before you make the trip. It should not be a very long repair and if you leave early in the AM then they would have the rig early and get it done. You could out of there in 90 min or less. Of course, they may not do this and I would have to find another dealer. IMO.
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Brenda and John
'14 Ram 3500 MCSB 6.7L HO PullRite 16K S/G, Grey Columbus 320RS Camped '14 - 146 days/'15 - 196 days
USN-EOD(Ret), Master Chief, 30 yrs,
Master Blaster of the Navy
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02-26-2015, 12:54 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTJohn
Try to get the dealer have a time slot for you and have the part actually on hand before you make the trip. It should not be a very long repair and if you leave early in the AM then they would have the rig early and get it done. You could out of there in 90 min or less. Of course, they may not do this and I would have to find another dealer. IMO.
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My plans exactly! I'd hope to get there by 10:30 or 11 and out after lunch. One long expensive round trip instead of two!
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02-26-2015, 01:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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make sure you have white to ground and black to + on the battery when you go in. some converters are not reverse polarity protected and they may try to void the warranty claim on the converter if you got it backwards...
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02-26-2015, 01:55 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
make sure you have white to ground and black to + on the battery when you go in. some converters are not reverse polarity protected and they may try to void the warranty claim on the converter if you got it backwards...
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Thanks Crockett, mine is reverse polarity protected. I haven't touched the converter at all--in fact, haven't located it 100%. But battery is hooked up white to negative and red to positive and has been every time. reverse polarity fuses both look good.
thanks
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02-26-2015, 01:55 PM
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#12
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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And sometimes the black cable is red but still positive.
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02-26-2015, 07:27 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Where the camper is
Posts: 598
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Ask them to install a battery shut off switch for you. They might throw it in free or just charge you for the switch and not the labor. I would.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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02-26-2015, 08:22 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS
And sometimes the black cable is red but still positive.
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my apologies...most manufacturers ditched the red for black when they made the switch to a white ground...or so I thought. Im prolly most amazed at the new 14 gauge charge wire on the new pre-wired trucks. they were burning up the pins in the plugs so they downsized the wire...but thats another thread...
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02-26-2015, 08:44 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 105
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...vac-75089.html
This was my post on what sounds like a similar issue.
You should look through it for ideas for where it maybe located but this worked for me.
SO long story short ... BEFORE you take it back check these few things out.
UNPLUG the units power cord ! THEN
1) look at your fuse / breaker panel- if it has air vents / louvers then the converter is built in and there should be 2 30-40amp fuses. Check them and even replace them. If they are blown (or if you just replace one or both) plug back in and see if it works.
2) If you do not have air vents louvers then it is most likely behind or under the panel box. (you may have to crawl under the unit and find out where the main cables from the battery enter the unit. You may have to put your hands on the cable and follow it all the way.) Mine was in the closet under a false bottom that just popped right out.
I changed the fuse and everything worked.
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02-26-2015, 09:39 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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considering the drive....good advice to just totally troubleshoot before the trip. fuses at the converter a good start...
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