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06-04-2014, 09:02 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 40
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Fridge Cooling Unit Diagnosis - Bypass Electronics
I have a Norcold N611 fridge. Neither the fridge nor freezer cool properly on either electric or gas. I seem to have proper 12 volt and 110 volt power. There are no error codes flashing. I have replaced the thermister and it did not fix the problem. I do not smell ammonia. I do not see any yellowish crusty stuff. There is some white crusty stuff in the access panel area though.
I understand there is a way to directly test the cooling unit by plugging in the 110 volt leads directly to an extension cord. I have located those two 110 volt leads. However, the two 110 volt leads are both black and are not labeled. I am unsure as to what lead on the cooling unit is common and hot, as they are both black wires and are not labeled.
Is there any advice you can give me?
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Travis * Norman, OK
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06-04-2014, 09:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrelltravis
I have a Norcold N611 fridge. Neither the fridge nor freezer cool properly on either electric or gas. I seem to have proper 12 volt and 110 volt power. There are no error codes flashing. I have replaced the thermister and it did not fix the problem. I do not smell ammonia. I do not see any yellowish crusty stuff. There is some white crusty stuff in the access panel area though.
I understand there is a way to directly test the cooling unit by plugging in the 110 volt leads directly to an extension cord. I have located those two 110 volt leads. However, the two 110 volt leads are both black and are not labeled. I am unsure as to what lead on the cooling unit is common and hot, as they are both black wires and are not labeled.
Is there any advice you can give me?
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You should just have to unplug the electrical plug and plug it in. Do you have a fan in that compartment behind the unit? that will help also install a 12v computer fan on the coils inside the refer area. Just find a hot 12v wire and add a alligator clamp to the other side clamp it to your fins to complete the circuit. You could get the 12v from the light bulb but keep it on the hot side so the fan will stay on while the light is not when you close the door....hope that helps.
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06-04-2014, 09:19 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 40
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I appreciate the reply, but I was looking to bypass the electronics to determine if the cooling unit has gone out. The plug currently has proper 110 volt power. But, that plug goes to the circuit board. The 110 volt power goes from the plug, to the circuit board, and then out to the cooling unit. I am trying to bypass the circuit board. So, the 110 volt leads from the cooling unit are both black and not labeled.
Trying to figure out how to test those leads.
I do not have any fans installed. I understand they help. However, as of right now, the freezer cools to about 60 degrees. The fridge cools to about 70 degrees. I don't think adding a fan is going to get those temps down enough.
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Travis * Norman, OK
- 2011 Forest River Rockwood 8285WS 5er - FOR SALE!!
- F350 Crew Cab Dually Diesel King Ranch
- See 'ya on the road! Typically on 146.520 for the other traveling hams!
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06-04-2014, 09:49 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Sask. Canada
Posts: 69
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I don't think that you want to apply 110v to the heater in the cooling unit! It is probably a different voltage after it comes out of the board. Could even be reduced to 12 volts-if you hook to 110 you will probably burn out the heating element If it seems that the unit is being heated up from the propane or electricity I would say that the fridge has leaked some of the fluid out.
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06-04-2014, 09:52 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 40
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This video shows what I am trying to do. At about 0:34 is what I am trying to do.
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Travis * Norman, OK
- 2011 Forest River Rockwood 8285WS 5er - FOR SALE!!
- F350 Crew Cab Dually Diesel King Ranch
- See 'ya on the road! Typically on 146.520 for the other traveling hams!
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06-04-2014, 09:56 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 40
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Here is the schematics to the 2 wires I am trying to figure out about :
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
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Travis * Norman, OK
- 2011 Forest River Rockwood 8285WS 5er - FOR SALE!!
- F350 Crew Cab Dually Diesel King Ranch
- See 'ya on the road! Typically on 146.520 for the other traveling hams!
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06-04-2014, 10:54 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrelltravis
Here is the schematics to the 2 wires I am trying to figure out about :
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
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Polarity makes no difference in this application. Either lead can be black or white, all going the same place. Good luck
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06-04-2014, 10:57 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Norman, OK
Posts: 40
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I was afraid the answer might be that simple! I just wanted some confirmation. Didnt want to burn something up!
Thanks so much!
Lets hope the cooling unit still works and my problem is some small issue.
Do you agree that the leads I have highlighted and circled are the correct leads for the cooling unit?
__________________
Travis * Norman, OK
- 2011 Forest River Rockwood 8285WS 5er - FOR SALE!!
- F350 Crew Cab Dually Diesel King Ranch
- See 'ya on the road! Typically on 146.520 for the other traveling hams!
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06-04-2014, 11:11 AM
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#9
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
You could get the 12v from the light bulb but keep it on the hot side so the fan will stay on while the light is not when you close the door....hope that helps.
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We have a Norcold and the light power source cannot be used as it is controlled by the circuit board. I tried. The light only comes on when the door is opened and then after about 15 seconds it goes off even tho' the door is still open.
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06-04-2014, 11:56 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Connect at furnace stack, disconnect board connections, no back feed
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06-04-2014, 12:31 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lake Wales
Posts: 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
We have a Norcold and the light power source cannot be used as it is controlled by the circuit board. I tried. The light only comes on when the door is opened and then after about 15 seconds it goes off even tho' the door is still open.
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OC
Where did you get your power for the inside fans on the Norcold? I am about to begin this inside mod.
Paul
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