Fridge Cooling Unit Diagnosis - Bypass Electronics

[farrelltravis]

I have a Norcold N611 fridge. Neither the fridge nor freezer cool properly on either electric or gas. I seem to have proper 12 volt and 110 volt power. There are no error codes flashing. I have replaced the thermister and it did not fix the problem. I do not smell ammonia. I do not see any yellowish crusty stuff. There is some white crusty stuff in the access panel area though.

I understand there is a way to directly test the cooling unit by plugging in the 110 volt leads directly to an extension cord. I have located those two 110 volt leads. However, the two 110 volt leads are both black and are not labeled. I am unsure as to what lead on the cooling unit is common and hot, as they are both black wires and are not labeled.

Is there any advice you can give me?

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by farrelltravis

I have a Norcold N611 fridge. Neither the fridge nor freezer cool properly on either electric or gas. I seem to have proper 12 volt and 110 volt power. There are no error codes flashing. I have replaced the thermister and it did not fix the problem. I do not smell ammonia. I do not see any yellowish crusty stuff. There is some white crusty stuff in the access panel area though.

I understand there is a way to directly test the cooling unit by plugging in the 110 volt leads directly to an extension cord. I have located those two 110 volt leads. However, the two 110 volt leads are both black and are not labeled. I am unsure as to what lead on the cooling unit is common and hot, as they are both black wires and are not labeled.

Is there any advice you can give me?

You should just have to unplug the electrical plug and plug it in. Do you have a fan in that compartment behind the unit? that will help also install a 12v computer fan on the coils inside the refer area. Just find a hot 12v wire and add a alligator clamp to the other side clamp it to your fins to complete the circuit. You could get the 12v from the light bulb but keep it on the hot side so the fan will stay on while the light is not when you close the door....hope that helps.

[farrelltravis]

I appreciate the reply, but I was looking to bypass the electronics to determine if the cooling unit has gone out. The plug currently has proper 110 volt power. But, that plug goes to the circuit board. The 110 volt power goes from the plug, to the circuit board, and then out to the cooling unit. I am trying to bypass the circuit board. So, the 110 volt leads from the cooling unit are both black and not labeled.

Trying to figure out how to test those leads.

I do not have any fans installed. I understand they help. However, as of right now, the freezer cools to about 60 degrees. The fridge cools to about 70 degrees. I don't think adding a fan is going to get those temps down enough.

[ayotte]

I don't think that you want to apply 110v to the heater in the cooling unit! It is probably a different voltage after it comes out of the board. Could even be reduced to 12 volts-if you hook to 110 you will probably burn out the heating element If it seems that the unit is being heated up from the propane or electricity I would say that the fridge has leaked some of the fluid out.

[farrelltravis]

This video shows what I am trying to do. At about 0:34 is what I am trying to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPvsUyfvObA

[farrelltravis]

Here is the schematics to the 2 wires I am trying to figure out about:

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[VinceU]

Originally Posted by farrelltravis

Here is the schematics to the 2 wires I am trying to figure out about:

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Polarity makes no difference in this application. Either lead can be black or white, all going the same place. Good luck

[farrelltravis]

I was afraid the answer might be that simple! I just wanted some confirmation. Didnt want to burn something up!

Thanks so much!

Lets hope the cooling unit still works and my problem is some small issue.

Do you agree that the leads I have highlighted and circled are the correct leads for the cooling unit?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

You could get the 12v from the light bulb but keep it on the hot side so the fan will stay on while the light is not when you close the door....hope that helps.

We have a Norcold and the light power source cannot be used as it is controlled by the circuit board. I tried. The light only comes on when the door is opened and then after about 15 seconds it goes off even tho' the door is still open.

[VinceU]

Connect at furnace stack, disconnect board connections, no back feed

[B D HOWie]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

We have a Norcold and the light power source cannot be used as it is controlled by the circuit board. I tried. The light only comes on when the door is opened and then after about 15 seconds it goes off even tho' the door is still open.

OC
Where did you get your power for the inside fans on the Norcold? I am about to begin this inside mod.
Paul