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Old 09-10-2012, 08:04 AM   #11
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Trogdog - I have an A128S A-frame so it would be the same fridge you have I would think. In my tests the fridge draws a very solid 10amps when running on 12volts. The 12volt line coming back from the tv should keep the battery up while travelling when the fridge is on 12volt, so I don't need to make the decision of whether to keep propane open when travelling, and the fridge is as cold as when it is run on 120vac. I think you should run some tests using a voltage meter to make sure your 12volt line does have power, and then to see if it is keeping the battery on the trailer charged.
First step is to test the 7way connector at back of the tv to ensure the 12volt connector has power (pin 4 on the attached diagram).
Then, with the tv NOT coupled to the trailer and the shore power disconnected let the fridge run on 12volts for a hour or 2, and check the trailer battery voltage every 15mins. You should see it slowly drop.
Then plug the tv into the trailer and start the tv engine - now when you check the trailers battery voltage it should be going up - slowly. This is the normal operation. If the trailer battery voltage doesn't rise then it sounds like there might be a wiring issue either at the 7-way connector itself, or in the wiring between the 7way and the trailer battery/trailer controller. Keep in mind the ground connections,just as important as the positive side of the equation. I suppose it might also be that the 12volt line providing power to the 7way from the front of the tv may be too small a gauge and can't handle the current draw, but lets hope that isn't the issue.
I can't stress enough the value of a small multi-tester. I picked up a unit that tests DC & AC voltage, DC & AC amps via inductive pickup and of course it has an ohms range for continuity tests. I keep it in the trailer at all times. great for testing battery condition when boondocking etc.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:22 AM   #12
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Randy, I totally agree with you that everyone needs a meter and the
ability to use it for basic voltage tests and the occasional fuse check!

But I am absolutely sure my early trailer that did have a 3 way fridge was
correctly wired. I used to plug in my truck in order to get a little extra
boost if my trailer battery was getting low near the end of a weekend.

I know the alternator is supposed to charge the trailer battery thru the
7 pin plug but it typically doesn't do much.
The problem is the long distance between the engine battery and the
trailer battery and the under size wire in between.
This has been discussed here many times.
Search for "will my trailer battery charge while driving".

I know for a fact that my trailer battery was being slowly drained
by the fridge while on the road. If I left it on during a lunch stop the
truck would barely start when we were done! 10 amps draw is huge.
My advice is still run with LP on. If it works for you great but I had times
I wanted my trailer battery to be absolutely full when I arrived and that
would not happen if I had the fridge on DC operation.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:46 AM   #13
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Maybe a dual battery set up is in order here.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
Maybe a dual battery set up is in order here.
Agreed, I use 2 6 volt golf cart batteries. I would also only run it on propane or 110 volt as that costs a lot less that 2 new batteries. I need 2 6 volt batteries to dry camp for 7 days.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:07 AM   #15
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Hi Dan

No doubt every scenario is different - be it the wiring runs, the charging ability of the tv, the fridge, the battery etc. The quick test I outlined will at least indicate if it will keep the battery up or not, and if not, and there are no obvious wiring issues then the decision can be made re using propane when travelling. My previous pup was not wired for the 12v line so I had no choice but to use propane as the battery would be drained - this new trailer/tv combination works great and I don't have to keep a propane tank open when on the road...so I'm happy.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:10 AM   #16
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I also have to wonder if the battery is in good condition ?
An ailing battery won't last long in that situation.


A good 24 hr 2 amp charge and a load test may be in order.

I have to wonder how old the battery is.
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:29 AM   #17
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What is your tow vehicle? Some of the Chevy's need a fuse installed to charge the trailer battery. My 2006 D/A has a fuse installed from the factory. Friends 2006 did not
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiggerdad
What is your tow vehicle? Some of the Chevy's need a fuse installed to charge the trailer battery. My 2006 D/A has a fuse installed from the factory. Friends 2006 did not
Some Ford's need a relay to work as well.

I guess and here I go again I assumed the charge circuit was known to be working.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:47 AM   #19
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Thanks. That makes me feel better about running with propane on.
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:55 AM   #20
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TV is a 2008 Jeep Rubicon. Trailer battery was all but dead at the end of a two day camp trip. I left the fridge off on the way home, and by the time I got home five hours later the battery had enough juice to run both the lights and the fan. I'm guessing this means the charge line is hooked up?
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