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Old 09-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #21
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There is no thermocouple. Please refer to the instruction manual given earlier. Sensing by Flame Rectification is not the same as shorting out the electrode.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:25 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
There is no thermocouple. Please refer to the instruction manual given earlier. Sensing by Flame Rectification is not the same as shorting out the electrode.
I love it when you talk dirty... Might want to splain the Flame ........ concept. I know what it is, but many may not. good information
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:04 AM   #23
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Barry is correct, their is a long splane if you google flame rectification, and Robertshaw has a good explanation how it works. In the 1980's standing pilots where no longer the norm. In basic terms the electrode which will create a spark to the pilot will send a signal back to the ignitor box or board which in reality will go to ground and stop the sparking sensing the pilot is lit and open the main valve.( there is no burner in the refer section only the pilot) When the electrode cools it will start the cycle again, or if it times out and the pilot still is not lit. That is why your unit will try to lite 3x's then lock out on the furnace or water heater, not the refer. The same concept is used on the furnace and water heater. The electrode will knock you on your butt if you touch it when sparking. Most of them have to be set at 1/8 to 1/4" from the pilot hood. Depending on the application it could spark directly to the burner if you didn't have a pilot. When it lights the pilot it then will open the burner valve. I hope I didn't confuse anyone, but robertshaw has a very good definition. Most of the time if it will not work the ignitor part of the board is out. Which will call for a replacement, They use to have a separate box for the ignitor but things change.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:46 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Barry is correct, their is a long splane if you google flame rectification, and Robertshaw has a good explanation how it works. In the 1980's standing pilots where no longer the norm. In basic terms the electrode which will create a spark to the pilot will send a signal back to the ignitor box or board which in reality will go to ground and stop the sparking sensing the pilot is lit and open the main valve.( there is no burner in the refer section only the pilot) When the electrode cools it will start the cycle again, or if it times out and the pilot still is not lit. That is why your unit will try to lite 3x's then lock out on the furnace or water heater, not the refer. The same concept is used on the furnace and water heater. The electrode will knock you on your butt if you touch it when sparking. Most of them have to be set at 1/8 to 1/4" from the pilot hood. Depending on the application it could spark directly to the burner if you didn't have a pilot. When it lights the pilot it then will open the burner valve. I hope I didn't confuse anyone, but robertshaw has a very good definition. Most of the time if it will not work the ignitor part of the board is out. Which will call for a replacement, They use to have a separate box for the ignitor but things change.
Cool. I knew someone would know to use Google.

A few points of disagreement with the above.
  • A "pilot" is, by definition, something used to light another flame, so you can have only a burner, but you can't have only a pilot. A refer burner is small, I'll agree, but it's not a pilot.
  • The temperature of the electrode has nothing to do with it. If the flame goes away, that will start the ignition process again, unless it's tried too many times.
  • My refer locks out after three trys. What does yours do? Just continue trying to light for ever?
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:24 PM   #25
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I think it is on page 2 or 3 of my manual, it states after 30 sec of continuing trying to lite it will lock out not try 3 times such as your water heater or furnace. Then you have to reset the control, If you look at the diagram supplied in the back of the book it will show a 1 piece part and unit, To me it is easier to explain it that way with the burner as you call it and a pilot as I call it. It is one piece. (I agree bad terminology) I'm surprised that yours will try 3 x's. My unit is a Norcold what brand do you have, not that I doubt you, you should know how your unit works. Never mentioned temp on the electrode at all. I said it will go to ground which stops the ignition process. Same as Robertshaw def. say's
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:38 PM   #26
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See blue text above. You said "when electrode cools" (which sounds like temp to me, but perhaps you were referring to its popularity on FaceBook).
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #27
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See blue text above. You said "when electrode cools" (which sounds like temp to me, but perhaps you were referring to its popularity on FaceBook).
You must be joking, I ment after the cycle only, I would think anyone would know that and what I meant. I guess sometimes people just get picky. I'm a layman not an engineer.....
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:11 PM   #28
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I would check to see if the termal couple is working. Sounds like it isn't.
When you have ignition it heats up the tube and puts pressure back to the regulator and says keep valve open.
If this doesn't work the regulator valve shuts down and doesn't allow propane to flow.

It is like the oven. You light it and it heats the thermocouple and allows the propane to ignite the full burner. If it doesn't work it shuts everyhting back down.

Let us know what you find out at the dealer.
Feep the beer an wine cool Nigel...
Hi John, Our Norcold has a spark/sensor all in one, and the shut off valve is a solenoid valve, that seems to work corecty. I was hoping it was the spark/sensor that was causing the problem, so for $20 replaced it, to no avail. So it looks like its the flame sensing part of the board is at fault which means buying the whole board so have ordered one. Should arrive next week, Ill let you know.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:12 AM   #29
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Thumbs up Conclusion

The new board arrived today, 5 minute install and the refrigerator at last works on propane

Here's the thing. This forum saved me big $, thanks Guys for the info and pdfs. I wasted $20 on the spark/sensor, part of the analysis I suppose, and then paid $100 on Ebay inc shipping for a new board and now I am a happy chappy.

I have to recommend this ebay company, $100 inc shipping:

Norcold Refrigerator Board PN 628661 1172 100 | eBay

I got various prices on the Web from $139 to over $200 for the same thing, time will tell. What CWorld with labor would have charged who knows?

At least my beer keeps cold when we are on the road
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:40 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Nigels View Post
The new board arrived today, 5 minute install and the refrigerator at last works on propane

Here's the thing. This forum saved me big $, thanks Guys for the info and pdfs. I wasted $20 on the spark/sensor, part of the analysis I suppose, and then paid $100 on Ebay inc shipping for a new board and now I am a happy chappy.

I have to recommend this ebay company, $100 inc shipping:

Norcold Refrigerator Board PN 628661 1172 100 | eBay

I got various prices on the Web from $139 to over $200 for the same thing, time will tell. What CWorld with labor would have charged who knows?

At least my beer keeps cold when we are on the road
Well that is great cold beer again !!! Thanks for the link on parts. Glad you got it working on your own. My guess would be $250.00 for CW to do.....
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