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Old 08-05-2016, 01:50 PM   #11
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I called Dometic and unfortunately they didn't offer any solutions to this problem. Doxies in the Rockies - Since your dealer is in Colorado maybe they will be able to get yours going. Maybe it is in fact the motherboard. On my generator Champion sent me a high altitude orifice (at no cost by the way) which I installed before we left. Seems like changing out the orifice on the fridge would do the trick.
Back in the day, when I was stationed at Lowry AFB just outside Denver....

Folks getting transferred in found one of the first things they needed to do was change the carburetor jets.

Let us know if it works.
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:03 PM   #12
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North Star - thanks. I'll ask the dealer about that when we take it in. We seldom go anywhere that electrical services are available & I'd sure hate to run the generator all the time! Still wonder why without changing locations, ours works for over a day & then keeps shutting off. Hope there's a "fix" for it!

Campinqueen - interesting read! Thanks. We can't get away from high altitude but hopefully can get our fridge to work MOST of the time!

TsnTexas - that's the generator we're looking at. Does it run your a/c in that Texas heat?
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:07 PM   #13
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TSNTEXAS.....we had the same problem with ours in the Rockies up near Telluride in 2014,,,,the elevation of 9400 feet at Cayton Campground was too much for it,,,,screwwing up the fuel/air mixture.....we just switched it over to electric,,,but you were drydocking, so that won't help you. You're on the outskirts of Austin? We're up at Lake Georgetown just north of you.
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Old 08-05-2016, 04:03 PM   #14
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Yes we reside a bit west of Austin. Hardly ever take the drive into that city - worst traffic I've seen anywhere. Doxies - yes we can run the AC on the generator and once it starts I switch the generator to eco mode which drops rpms and runs much quieter. I have thought about adding a capacitor on the AC to help it start, but so far so good. It's always an option to do that.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:03 AM   #15
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We've had the same trouble with the fridge above 9000'. Runs OK at home, 8500'. Before the last trip at higher elevations, I cleaned out the area behind the unit and finished off with blowing it out with compressed air. It ran for the long weekend without faulting out.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:23 AM   #16
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We just returned from LeBaron Lake, in Beaver County Utah. At an elevation of 9,000 Feet we had several outages with our fridge and water heater while using LP. Our generator also seemed much louder than typical, as well as the RV furnace. I myself had to run up the hill to our campsite to grab a fish stringer, the 100 yards felt like Ragnar! The week before we were at Strawberry Res which was 7600 feet and had no issues. You can try and open up your vent cover allow in more O2.

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Old 08-08-2016, 08:58 AM   #17
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the only thing i know to do at high elevation would be to open the burner cover to allow more air in . I've done this in the past with good results . living in colorado and camping above 8000 ft all the time needed to do something . worth a try
That's what I do over 6000 ft. and hard to find a nice FS campground out here under 6K For the Dometic 3-way 2193 I have, and they only make one jet size.

However, this last camping trip at around 6600 feet it would stay lite but would not cool down the fridge at temps of 75 degrees. Dealer in Denver told me it is four years old, CLEAN THE SYSTEM! Pull the fridge into the trailer and disassemble the stack, and all the parts and pull out the jet and soak in alcohol.

If that doesn't work, check pressure regulator. The fridge is more susceptible
to low pressure than the stove and/or heater.

So how old is your trailer. Dealer said it is a great idea to at least pull the jet and clean every two years if fridge is on propane a lot.
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Old 08-08-2016, 09:06 AM   #18
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Lots of great tips and advice here, Will try all of them and just deal with it like everyone else. Appreciate the help - this forum is great.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:09 PM   #19
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I ran into the same problem when I was visiting my brother in Breckenridge a few years ago. As mentioned, Dometic stated that it had to be taken to an RV service technician for "repair". My symptom was the burner would try to light then I'd hear a thump sound, caused by propane exploding in the combustion chamber. This would repeat a number of times until the fridge went into a "check" state and shut off the propane. If I manually lit the burner with my long grill lighter, the fridge would work until the gas shut off then went back to the same problem.

I disassembled the sheet metal in the burner area to see if I could determine what the problem was. Nothing appeared to be bent or clogged and as I started to reassemble everything, I realized that the gas jet / mixing burner tube was very similar to my home propane grill. The big difference between the two devices was that the fridge has a 1" gap between the gas jet and the burner tube while the grill had a 1" gap with a double walled sleeve filling the gap. The sleeve has two pairs of slits that allows adjusting the air/fuel mixture. This, plus some memories of physics lessons about how gasses behave led me to the conclusion that, at higher altitudes, there isn't enough air pressure to keep the propane confined through the 1" gap to keep it going into the burner tube. The propane flowed into and around the burner tube until it reached a high enough concentration that the spark igniter caused it to explode. The heat from the explosion was enough to be detected by the control board and it shut off the spark generator causing the cycle to repeat itself.

My solution was to add a shield between the jet and the burner tube. There was a sheet metal screw in the back panel sheet metal centered on the gap which made a convenient point to attach the shield. The shield was made from a thin 1" wide strip of brass (K&S metals at your local hobby store) that I bent into a tube shape using a wood dowel to form it. The tube is actually a little more than half a tube with a flange on it to attach it to the rear wall sheet metal where the existing screw was located. The air gap left by the shield is at least the same size as my grill, while the fridge burns only a fraction of the propane that the grill uses. The fridge still has the nice little blue flame at the burner indicating adequate oxygen.

This "fix" has allowed using the fridge on propane at high altitudes. It has no effect on the operation of the unit at lower altitudes.

Phil
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:11 PM   #20
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My solution was to add a shield between the jet and the burner tube. There was a sheet metal screw in the back panel sheet metal centered on the gap which made a convenient point to attach the shield. The shield was made from a thin 1" wide strip of brass (K&S metals at your local hobby store) that I bent into a tube shape using a wood dowel to form it. The tube is actually a little more than half a tube with a flange on it to attach it to the rear wall sheet metal where the existing screw was located. The air gap left by the shield is at least the same size as my grill, while the fridge burns only a fraction of the propane that the grill uses. The fridge still has the nice little blue flame at the burner indicating adequate oxygen.

This "fix" has allowed using the fridge on propane at high altitudes. It has no effect on the operation of the unit at lower altitudes.

Phil
Is it convenient for you to show some pics ?
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