Fridge question

tomngo8 · 05-26-2014, 11:00 PM

I have a question about the fridge button for auto/gas. For some reason my button won't engage the auto. I have to press it several times. Is it a bad switch or does the unit does some evaluating prior to engaging is allowed? I am plugged into electrical and have propane on.

captainchaos · 05-26-2014, 11:31 PM

Yes, mine doesn't work on auto either. Propane is OK but no auto. Taking it into the dealers soon and let them figure it out.

tomngo8 · 05-27-2014, 12:56 AM

Keep me posted on your dealer visit.

Mine engages but with several tries and only if I turn the unit off and then on again. Thus I asked if the unit does an evaluation first.

Anyone else unit working?

Ford Idaho · 05-27-2014, 01:07 AM

I am having a like problem with mine.
Works fine on auto /gas but not on 115v I will be looking at the fuses behind a plastic cover in the access panel outside.
The cover is on the left side behind the power cord.

tomngo8 · 05-27-2014, 01:20 AM

So your button for auto/gas engages easily every time?

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 05:17 AM

Is this the fridge we are talking about?

tomngo8 · 05-27-2014, 08:39 AM

Yes. That is the fridge.

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 11:31 AM

OK, the LEFT button is the ON/OFF button; it must be in for the fridge to work at all. With this button IN and the GAS button OUT the fridge is in AUTO (light ON) and will use AC power, IF it is available, and will switch to GAS automatically if the AC power fails (DC is still required from the battery).

The right button FORCES the fridge out of AUTO. It MAKES it use gas and it will never switch back to AC if it is restored. With the gas button IN, ALL lights should be OFF. If the CHECK light comes on it means the gas did not light.

tomngo8 · 05-27-2014, 11:39 AM

I understand how it works. But i think you have it backward. The button OUT means gas only. The button IN means auto. Mine will not stay IN (auto). The button won't stick in the IN position.

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomngo8

I understand how it works. But i think you have it backward. The button OUT means gas only. The button IN means auto. Mine will not stay IN (auto). The button won't stick in the IN position.

That could be. Camper is in the driveway, but I am out of commission with a severe allergic reaction to the tree pollen. Anyway, the auto light only works when you have de-selected gas.

If the button is broken you will need a new display board.

Part 18 - 2932771013 A B Panel, Display Board

Ford Idaho · 05-27-2014, 02:59 PM

So with only the on button selected it should work on shore power, correct?

What does it mean if the check light comes on when on power only?

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

So with only the on button selected it should work on shore power, correct?

What does it mean if the check light comes on when on power only?

Assuming the display board and the control board are working as advertised; yes. If a tracing on either is broken (like from pounding on the switch in frustration) all bets are off.

With 12 volts DC to control the switches and control board, and 120 VAC to power the heater (the only thing it does), the fridge should cool just fine.

If you are not getting an "AUTO" light when the left button is pressed (making sure the GAS is off whether in or out (?)), check the 15 amp blue fuse in the power center labeled fridge. Then check the glass fuse on the control board (3 amp I think) for DC. The other one is for the AC heater and is 5 amps (I think).

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

What does it mean if the check light comes on when on power only?

It means you don't actually have AC at the control board. The check light only comes on when the fridge is trying to start the propane heater and there is no propane AND no AC power.

So, check your "GAS" button is off and the AC breaker for the fridge circuit is on. Also check the outlet the fridge is plugged into for power. (GFCI could have tripped).

Check glass 120 VAC 5 amp fuse on control board for continuity.

Check around the boiler for ammonia leaks (green crud).

Ford Idaho · 05-27-2014, 03:38 PM

I pulled both fuses inside the plastic cover and did a continuity test, both tested good.

In as much as I wanted to beat the @&&!!@ out of the switches I did not (to many witnesses).....

Ran it on gas all weekend past ant it worked great that way but I would rather not burn thru propane like that when power is available.

I am going to go pull the 15 amps and check them as non are marked for fridge.

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

I pulled both fuses inside the plastic cover and did a continuity test, both tested good.

In as much as I wanted to beat the @&&!!@ out of the switches I did not (to many witnesses).....

Ran it on gas all weekend past ant it worked great that way but I would rather not burn thru propane like that when power is available.

I am going to go pull the 15 amps and check them as non are marked for fridge.

Use a plug tester and check the outlet the fridge is plugged into. It could be a bad outlet. They are notorious for losing conductivity.

Ford Idaho · 05-27-2014, 04:00 PM

I do not have a tester like that but my Fluke multi says I have power to the plug.

WFCO #8955PEC
All the 15 amps looked good.

A question about the converter, each fuse has a red lamp/bulb next to them does the light come on when a fuse is out?

Witch Doctor · 05-27-2014, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

I do not have a tester like that but my Fluke multi says I have power to the plug.

WFCO #8955PEC
All the 15 amps looked good.

A question about the converter, each fuse has a red lamp/bulb next to them does the light come on when a fuse is out?

simple answer yes, but don't trust it. .......

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 06:17 PM

Sorry, lost power there and had to get the generator running for the DW's cycler. Started on the first pull

and just as I was about to hook it in to the house when I saw the lights go on across the street. That is my signal to undo everything.

So, socket is good. Fuses in the fridge are good; still no heat from the AC heater. Runs good on propane.

We set so far? If so, it gets expensive from here and a friend with the equipment to do board level troubleshooting is next. Or a Dometic Certified Repair Center.

If not you could try the military fix (LLR). It is the most expensive kind of repair, but WTH; its only money.

Buy the most likely candidate and swap it out. Then the next one until its fixed. You "might" wind up with a drawer full of good spare parts, or you could just as easily fry the new boards trying them out. While this is a great way to run an air force, it would most likely suck for you.

I would look up the closest Tech at this point. http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas...=Refrigerators
Might be closer than you think. Mine was across the street as it turned out.

Ford Idaho · 05-27-2014, 06:50 PM

I figured it was gonna get spendy (throw another grand at her) called the dealer he said drop it off.

I do not have time for this......AAAHHHHHHGGGGGGG!

I feel better now...

Thank you for the help....

**Herk7769** · 05-27-2014, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

I figured it was gonna get spendy (throw another grand at her) called the dealer he said drop it off.

FYI, my Dometic guy was NOT an "RV dealer." He just fixes their fridges.
Works out of a body shop just up the highway. Would never have known if I did not check the site.

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