Fridge - residential vs. traditional

[rockfordroo]

You said the electricity was knocked out. What would have been different if you'd had a residential fridge with no electricity? Seems like the same spoiled food issue.

Also, you say you "replaced the failed refrigerator." But it didn't fail. The gas regulator did.

So I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have learned from this story.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Lawrosa

I assume you need to be plugged in 24/7 and the inverter is for when traveling.

I wonder the amp draw it puts on the alternator when driving.


ummm

500 watts / 120 = 4.1 amps x 10 = 41 amps draw from batts? Sound logical?

You pretty much have the math down. We are almost never on hookups so gas for us. But with big rv roof you COULD mount enough solar that with a four or six battery system I would think you could support a residential frig. I prefer to let my solar give me the luxury of running my tv and sat dish when ever I want to. Let the gas run the frig.

[DouglasReid]

We prefer the traditional. It keeps working on propane while traveling and we never have any issues with our food warming up even on long trips.

Ok, it does not cool down quickly when it has been turned off for a while but so what, we just turn it on the day or two before leaving and all is golden.

[thetinhouse]

Sorry I didn't elaborate any more but thought my original message was long enough.
We didn't go out to the RV to check on it after the original storm as, (1) the area of the campground frequently experiences heavy rains and thunderstorms and we were not notified that power had been lost, (2) we were both employed full-time when this occurred and our schedules didn't allow either of us to travel out to the RV to check on its integrity, and (3) the unit has a functional in-line surge-suppressor, but this device is understandably ineffective when the source electricity is interrupted.
The failure of the propane regulator/cross-over allowed propane to flow from both tanks without giving any indication that one tank was empty, as both still had propane in them.
The thawing meat juices in the freezer collected in the bottom tray until they overflowed into the cooling ducts and down into the operating system. This could not be cleaned out and gave off a foul odor by the heating process of the ammonia gas.
While the refrigerator did still function, the insurance company paid for a new replacement unit.
The 'destination trailer' which we now own is considered an RV as it rides on dual axles but is being used in a location close to home but far enough away from the urban area where we live to be considered "getting away from it all" without the need to tow it from place to place.
I hope this has clarified the confusion created in the original message.
The Tin House

[Jim34RL]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

I like the fact that I dont have to be plugged in to start the reefer for a trip. Evening before we leave, turn on the propane, hit the on button, done. Come back in the morning, ready to load. 32 degrees in the fridge.

I do not need to be plugged in to the house electrical system either with my residential fridge. I can just turn on the inverter and the fridge will work off of the batteries.
My residential fridge can get down to 20F on battery power only in the fridge part. My DW accidently set the cooling switch to the high side once and she ended up with frozen water in the celery container.

[trees]

Again, the propane fridge does a wonderful job for Rv industry and is the most popular refrigerator. It has been that way since I was a child more than fifty years ago. When I was a child it was a wonderful refrigerator and still is.

It is a loser proposition to attempt battery operation of modern compressor refrigerator. You can make it happen, but it will require an expensive investment. Also, it will take much diligence as the power hungry device can quickly drain batteries. Review the Gone with the Wynns video and understand the huge investment they made to make compressor refrigerator work when boondocking. They describe the compressor fridge as a love hate relationship.

If you are constantly hooked up, well, then go with conventional fridge. Same with all your electric appliances. Most don't do that and prefer the camping sites that may not have power. Rvs have a wonderful flexible power system and most put the flexibility to good use.

I think we have some that post defensively as they are reacting to the perceived threat to their decision to go electric. I do know many that will read discussions and react as a personal threat to their personal choice. Really, the two fridges do not compare. It's and apple to oranges comparison. It depends on what you use your rig for? I like propane refrigerators, but later in life I will purchase a Park Model RV and chose an electric fridge.

The propane fridge does operate differently. There is a learning curve. For one the absorption fridge does not automatically defrost. So, we hear stories of this class of refrigerator not working well. It's probably needs a defrost. Also, this auto defrost feature of modern compressor fridge does come with a penalty. The auto defrost actually utilizes a heater element. It is very inefficient and a component that often fails. Same with auto ice cube maker. Horribly inefficient, but if your always hooked up, who cares. Some camper complain of horrible power at the RV park. They describe power spikes, low voltage, or outage. Maybe a propane gas refrigerator is more robust to perform. I think so. Some RV parks charge so much for power the economical choice is propane.

[A32Deuce]

X2!

[K4DCF]

Well we have had propane/electric in all the rigs prior to this. I went with a residential unit for the big freezer and other features. I agree that for true off grid it would not be what I would use but when we attend events that others would call boondocking I run the genny 24/7 for the AC and other modern convenances. So all my battery has to do is maintain the fridg for brief stops when I have to turn off the TV but not start the Jenny as the TV supplies up to 30 amps while driving down the road. All other times I stay at a full hookup where power is not an issue.

[The_Rhino]

Last year our 5 year-old 8 cu. ft. Dometic RV fridge would not maintain 40 in 90 degree weather & a thorough DIY diagnosis revealed that the cooling unit needed replaced. Rebuilt cooling units for my unit are $400 - $500 & about a day of DIY labor...

I noticed that RV manufacturers were installing the Whirlpool 10.7 residential w/inverter & 2nd battery as a pricey upgrade on new models... However, I found the SAME 10.7 at a Sears Outlet for $300 & matched it to a $100 2000W inverter & 2nd 12V Battery ($75). Our family of 5 helped me to remove old fridge through dinette window & move new one in. I spent about a day running (3) outlets from the inverter & additional outlets from a 2nd 30A source I installed at the same time - which will eventually power a 2nd A/C...

I kept it simple. I just installed a 2nd inverter-powered outlet beside the existing fridge outlet & manually switch it by opening the outdoor fridge hatch. And, while I was at it, I installed a couple other inverter-powered outlets elsewhere in the TT. This way I have more control over what is pulling amps from my batteries...

I LOVE how the residential cools in 1 hour & is ready to load on short notice. I LOVE how our family of 5 can open & close it all day long, even on hot days, and it always maintains 40. Ice cream is great. Ice is great. The door holds a couple of gallons of milk, so we have a LOT of space for everything else. We make less grocery trips on longer trips... Plus I can turn-off the propane for peace-of-mind & don't have to pull-over for tunnels heading South/East of us...

Tests show that on (1) older & (1) newer economy 12V batteries I get about 18 hours in 90 degree heat... If I upgrade to (2) 6V golf cart batteries, I'll get more. We boondock 1 week each year on the beach & just run (quiet) generators during specified hours. We even have enough juice to watch TV for a couple hours & run (2) MaxxAir fans at night.

The bad... We have to be a little more careful about 110V power management unless I leave the fridge running off the inverter (batteries are charging anyway when hooked-up to 110...) Besides powering the 2nd A/C the 2nd 30A panel allows us to power the microwave, (2) skillets, etc. when just main A/C is running. Also, I don't like to leave the generators run while we are gone all-day... I worry about safety/other folks' kids getting shocked, etc. although I box them in somewhat to keep blowing sand off of them... If we're not around to charge them, then they won't last for 2 nights in a row... Also, batteries must be replaced every few years...

[Lawrosa]

Originally Posted by thetinhouse

Sorry I didn't elaborate any more but thought my original message was long enough.
We didn't go out to the RV to check on it after the original storm as, (1) the area of the campground frequently experiences heavy rains and thunderstorms and we were not notified that power had been lost, (2) we were both employed full-time when this occurred and our schedules didn't allow either of us to travel out to the RV to check on its integrity, and (3) the unit has a functional in-line surge-suppressor, but this device is understandably ineffective when the source electricity is interrupted.
The failure of the propane regulator/cross-over allowed propane to flow from both tanks without giving any indication that one tank was empty, as both still had propane in them.
The thawing meat juices in the freezer collected in the bottom tray until they overflowed into the cooling ducts and down into the operating system. This could not be cleaned out and gave off a foul odor by the heating process of the ammonia gas.
While the refrigerator did still function, the insurance company paid for a new replacement unit.
The 'destination trailer' which we now own is considered an RV as it rides on dual axles but is being used in a location close to home but far enough away from the urban area where we live to be considered "getting away from it all" without the need to tow it from place to place.
I hope this has clarified the confusion created in the original message.
The Tin House

Story is a mute point here and not understood by reading.

probably not important anymore as it seems it does not have anything to do with the question asked.

what we know..

1. Power went out. (A residential unit, the food would go bad until power came back on.)

2. So your unit went to propane. Great. But you said regulator failed. So both tanks were being used? Still if these tanks had propane the refridge can run for a month or more on one tank.

I would have my gas off, and always turn it off unless im using the trailer.

Even if the re-fridge was drawing both tanks only so much gas can get through that orifice.

The story would make more sense that the battery died after the power failure. Typical of park models. Without 12 volts the fridge will not run.

well thats how I read the story anyway. And just my opinion is all.

Dont get offended...

[banda]

I know this is from their marketing dept., but they do make some good points:
Norcold - Interior

[Delco Bobby]

Wow, lots of good conversation to my original question. Thanks one and all.

It seems that in my current situation it doesn't matter which type of fridge I get.

I ill probably just take whatever is standard. If I am ordering a new RV weight and cost will be the primary considerations.

Be chilled,

Bobby