Fridge works on Shore power but not gas/12VDC

[Leever2000]

I will leave the flue tube alone for now and clean the orifice.
How do I check the propane pressure?
The orifice is the brass tip or end of the burner jet and I assume I can remove the very end without removing the whole thing?
Also should I shut the manual shutoff below the solenoid valve?

I know I am asking a lot of questions but want to be sure not screwing something up. Also going out to get some brake cleaner for cleaning orifice.Appreciate the help.

David

[waiter21]

Yes, the orifice will come off by itself.

Turn the propane off at the tanks to make sure there is no gas.

[Leever2000]

I removed the orifice and immersed in brake cleaner. Plan to let soak for an hour or so.
Would it hurt to spray the brake cleaner down the throat of the flue tube?

[Leever2000]

So far I have cleaned the orifice, igniter and generally everything. The freezer portion gets down to 18 degrees and the fridge barely gets down to 50 degrees. As I stated before the fridge works as it should on AC but DC/Propane is the issue. I don't know what else to do? The fact that the fridge works on AC means that the fridge works and there is a problem with the DC/Propane side. Maybe I will hook up to shore power today and confirm that it really does work on AC.

[Leever2000]

Status update - wanted to double check the claim that the fridge works on AC/Shore power. Plugged camper in last night to shore power and the fridge temperature is right around 34 degrees and the freezer is right around 18 degrees. What is the possible cause? The only item I do not know how to check is the propane pressure of 11 inches of water - how do I check that?

waiter21 You flame should be twice as high as it is. thats why I also suggest you check your propane pressure, it should be 11 inches of water.

[waiter21]

The reason it seems to work on AC is because the heating element is providing more heat to the boiler tube than that wimpy flame.

Testing Propane pressure- You need a manometer. If I were doing this, this is what I would do:

Make my manometer like the one I use to calibrate airspeed indicators.

I FLY EZ

Connect it to the test fitting on the burner. (You need to look at the drawing, there's an allen fitting you remove and install a test fitting to connect to the manometer.

Turn on the propane and see what the pressure is. NOTE - If you have an airspeed indicator laying around, 11 inches of water is almost exactly 130 KIAS (Knots Indicated Airspeed)

If its low, you may want to hook up the manometer on the LP line near the stove and see if its also low. If it is, you either have a bad regulator or need to adjust the regulator.

WARNING - You're dealing with a highly flammable gas. All it needs is a spark and you have a bomb. You need to be 100% comfortable dealing with this.

[Leever2000]

The fact that it does work on AC at least proves that it is not too serious.

Can I remove the regulator and take to a propane company and have them test?

[waiter21]

It would probably be faster, easier, and less expensive just to replace it.

[Leever2000]

Update - this is what I discovered over the weekend. The fridge works on AC (shore power) and does not work on propane in Auto position. My fridge has a "Auto" button which is suppose to default to what ever is available. One thing I may not have mentioned was that when I was running on propane I left my "Auto" switch selected and when I would plug in to AC the fridge would be in the "Auto" position. I had not actually tried to select propane manually until this past weekend. Surprise the fridge works on propane, it just doesn't work when Auto is selected and propane is supplied. Not quite sure why it why but it is working with propane. (Freezer 18 degrees/ Fridge 36-40 degrees)

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Leever2000

Update - this is what I discovered over the weekend. The fridge works on AC (shore power) and does not work on propane in Auto position. My fridge has a "Auto" button which is suppose to default to what ever is available. One thing I may not have mentioned was that when I was running on propane I left my "Auto" switch selected and when I would plug in to AC the fridge would be in the "Auto" position. I had not actually tried to select propane manually until this past weekend. Surprise the fridge works on propane, it just doesn't work when Auto is selected and propane is supplied. Not quite sure why it why but it is working with propane. (Freezer 18 degrees/ Fridge 36-40 degrees)

Most interesting.
Do you notice a difference in the flame size when 'propane' is selected -vs- when the propane function is being used on 'Auto'?

I can't think of anything on the control side that would regulate the propane supply between the two sources of propane control.

[Leever2000]

Honestly I have not looked at the flame. Almost afraid if I look it will stop working correctly. I don't understand either - just know the fridge is working.