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Old 02-15-2014, 04:03 PM   #1
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Furnace not distributing heat to rear compartment, ideas?

I just made a short introduction at the welcome mat, brand new to RVs and it's been kind of a rough transition. It's a 2014 WPT30 toy hauler
and set up in MI for the time being. Going through propane like crazy, finally got some styrofoam type insulation set up over much of the flooring and the interior of the rear cargo loading door, already a huge improvement in retaining heat.

The issue is this, when the furnace is running it's only pumping heat through two vents in the main/forward cabin area. There are what appear to be heating ducts/vents spaced throughout the ceiling of the rear/living area but I'm getting no airflow or heat through them. Been through the furnace manual (can post specifics such as brand/model if necessary) and found no info on this topic, nor any search results here. Not yet finding any obvious solution or control for heat distribution.

So, any idea what I'm missing or is this a case of faulty installation/manufacturing? Any advice or suggestions very much appreciated.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:12 PM   #2
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In my TT, the heat's ducked through the floor, the A/C's ducked in the ceiling. If you have vents in the ceiling, they're probably only for A/C.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:13 PM   #3
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The W&P is not a 4 season trailer so trouble keeping it warm is a problem.

Some type of skirting would help a little.

As for the vents I would bet those are for the A/C.

Extra heat could be a space heater, a large oil type or a small ceramic heater.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:17 PM   #4
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Is the picture you are showing, an actual picture of your trailer? If not do you know the exact model. I have had 3 work & plays and only the a/c is ducted through the ceiling. You should have a brown vent somewhere near the floor that is from the furnace. 1 is usually in the bedroom, another in the kitchen area, and there is usually one in the wall between the garage. If you have an ultra lite the one we had was equipped with a warmer on the a/c unit. If you are getting air out of your ceiling vents, check your thermostat and make sure you have the fan set to auto so that it does not just come on when the furnace turns on. the furnace should be completely separate. Try to give me the exact model and I can tell you more.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:03 PM   #5
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Suggest you invest in a cheap 1500W electric heaters (or two if you 50amp service). This is assuming you're paying a straight charge for electric. Then most of your heat becomes "free" (you've already paid for the electric hookup) and you can set the furnace to make up any difference.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:06 PM   #6
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AC...Ceiling. Heat.... Floor. If you have heat coming out of the ceiling your AC unit is on fire and you need to get out of your unit asap. (call 911)
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Old 02-15-2014, 07:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaadk View Post
In my TT, the heat's ducked through the floor, the A/C's ducked in the ceiling. If you have vents in the ceiling, they're probably only for A/C.
You and everybody else must be right about this, haven't had a chance or needed to test AC yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
The W&P is not a 4 season trailer so trouble keeping it warm is a problem.

Some type of skirting would help a little.

As for the vents I would bet those are for the A/C.

Extra heat could be a space heater, a large oil type or a small ceramic heater.
Definitely not a 4 season trailer and all the vents around the AC unit are a dead giveaway. Makes sense it would be more equipped to cool than heat. Also especially doesn't make sense to have heat vents coming out of a ceiling, hindsight is 20/20 and all that. The insulation I mentioned above was originally meant for skirting, we should have cut it all to size correctly in FL when we had a good chance. Even then it would be tough to be really precise around the various water and electrical connections. We may yet find a way to do some half decent skirting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Colegrove View Post
Is the picture you are showing, an actual picture of your trailer? If not do you know the exact model. I have had 3 work & plays and only the a/c is ducted through the ceiling. You should have a brown vent somewhere near the floor that is from the furnace. 1 is usually in the bedroom, another in the kitchen area, and there is usually one in the wall between the garage. If you have an ultra lite the one we had was equipped with a warmer on the a/c unit. If you are getting air out of your ceiling vents, check your thermostat and make sure you have the fan set to auto so that it does not just come on when the furnace turns on. the furnace should be completely separate. Try to give me the exact model and I can tell you more.
WPT30FLA is as specific as I can get, the picture is the exact model aside from color scheme. There are only two heat vents, 1 in bedroom and 1 routed below the entryway closet towards kitchen/living area.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Suggest you invest in a cheap 1500W electric heaters (or two if you 50amp service). This is assuming you're paying a straight charge for electric. Then most of your heat becomes "free" (you've already paid for the electric hookup) and you can set the furnace to make up any difference.
We're already running two 1500W space heaters on a 30amp system. Needless to say we have some spare fuses on hand. At least one gets unplugged to use the microwave. Electric blankets are worth their weight in gold, no idea what wattage or current they're drawing but apparently it's not too much.

Appreciate the feedback everybody. Here's praying the water discharge tube isn't frozen in the morning... might be time for a separate thread.
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:34 PM   #8
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My wife and I have had a 25 ula, a 30wr, and now a 30wrs. they truly are not 4 season, however, I have learned a little about using them in cold weather since we like to go even in the winter. If you take insulation for a/c piping and put it on the exposed water lines under the trailer it will keep it from freezing in most cold circumstances. I have talked to some other owners who said that having the bottom of the trailer foamed helps with the cold floors immensely. Whoever sold you the trailer should have done a better job helping you. That won't help now, but, here are some things we have done to ours in addition to the insulation on the water pipes and the foam on the bottom. I added a completely separate 20amp service for the trailer so that I could plug it in and then use it to feed 1 of the heaters directly, it will take a lot of load off the power converter and you won't kill fuses and have to make choices as to what you want to power. We have 2 Stanley heaters that look like very small blowers and they do a fantastic job of heating. We use them and then set the thermostat so that in very cold weather between the 3 they will keep the trailer warm. We also have put carpet on the floor in the garage as we use it as a tv/bedroom for guests. We use ours down to about 20degrees without too much trouble. If you are on sewer I would suggest slowly dripping a faucet. It does work. We have done a lot of cold weather camping and gotten by without freezing. We lived in a blue ridge 5ver for a year and it had an arctic package and was considerably different. After moving to a house we went back to the work and play due to it's merit for grandchildren and being at the lake. If you check on this forum there are people who can give you fantastic advice. Hope things go better tomorrow.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:09 PM   #9
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Scott, really appreciate your detailed responses. We've probably already experienced the coldest weather we're going to this year and came out okay in the end. It ended up being about -6 plus windchill that night and we (probably mistakenly) left a cold tap running throughout the night, but the water discharge hose was about 10 ft. too long then and lying flat on the ground, and it froze solid as did the grey and black valves and water supply lines. That could have been disastrous but with a little tinkering everything came back correctly. I think the discharge pipes and hose were already partially frozen and the slow trickle was freezing faster than it was actually evacuating.

The discharge hose now has some slope to it to help evacuate fluids, hopefully it helps.

I think I need to figure out how to get all water out of the trailer overnight while it's still this cold. Shut off water supply, make sure both grey and black tanks are basically empty, run all water out of the system? I know forum etiquette says I should make a new thread, but I'm all ears about how to limit the freezing in the tanks and discharge piping. We're supposed to have 36 on Tue so there's some silver lining.

I'll look into insulating the water pipes, no reason not to do that.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:08 AM   #10
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IF you have a good amount of time to endure the cold left, I would buy the a/c piping wrap and use the aluminized tape to put it on the tank discharge piping. I know that you can buy spray foam, I would consider putting that on the actual tanks. I am hoping to have the complete bottom of my trailer done commercially in foam. Someone on the forum showed me pics of theirs and I can't help but feel it will make things warmer in the winter and help to be cooler in the summer.
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