Hello, I'm new here and arent sure I'm in the right place , feel free to redirect me. I bought a 2013 rockwood 5th wheel in Nov '12. I love it. However.... Iwas in Oliver BC over Xmas and got held up there w/ some health issues for a while. As a result I used my furnace a lot. Normally Im much further south. Now this is sold as a polar pack...but..at -10C I had to use 2 electric heaters to keep it at 21C. Country RV inPenticton replaced some elecronic boards 2x.I think they burned out because the furnace runs 24/7 trying to keep up. Took it in to the shop and they said that was just the way it is.If you are kind enough to reply please ignore the obvious , this is my 3rd 5thW and the others pumped out 5x the heat. Iwould appreciate any thoughts.
If I understand correctly, you're having to run 2 electric heaters in addition to the furnace to keep the inside temp at 21C while the outside is -10C. We have done a fair amount of camping at temp of -1 to -4C but not keeping the inside temp that high. With the colder temperature I'm not surprised that you need the furnace running a lot. Is the furnace vent air hot? Is the furnace cycling on/off?
If I understand correctly, you're having to run 2 electric heaters in addition to the furnace to keep the inside temp at 21C while the outside is -10C. We have done a fair amount of camping at temp of -1 to -4C but not keeping the inside temp that high. With the colder temperature I'm not surprised that you need the furnace running a lot. Is the furnace vent air hot? Is the furnace cycling on/off?
Dave
The outside vent seems to pump about 10x the heat outside as inside. Inside , tho you can here the fan come on low it is almost like no fan at all in the register right above the furnace and little to no heat comes through the other vents.If the electric heater (s) can maintain the temperature , yes it cycles off. The furnace appears to have no hi fan. This is with a skirt and insul in the vents. I used my old Komfort at -25C and didnt have the problem(now that was a bad year)
The outside vent seems to pump about 10x the heat outside as inside. Inside , tho you can here the fan come on low it is almost like no fan at all in the register right above the furnace and little to no heat comes through the other vents.If the electric heater (s) can maintain the temperature , yes it cycles off. The furnace appears to have no hi fan. This is with a skirt and insul in the vents. I used my old Komfort at -25C and didnt have the problem(now that was a bad year)
The outside vent seems to pump about 10x the heat outside as inside. Inside , tho you can here the fan come on low it is almost like no fan at all in the register right above the furnace and little to no heat comes through the other vents.If the electric heater (s) can maintain the temperature , yes it cycles off. The furnace appears to have no hi fan. This is with a skirt and insul in the vents. I used my old Komfort at -25C and didnt have the problem(now that was a bad year)
I believe that they use only a single speed fan for the furnace...mine is the same. Sounds like it's time to remove the return air/access panel and see if the ducts are properly connected to the furnace and ensure that there's no restriction on the intake side.
yup did that, the problem is that for a forced air furnace there is just no forced air.Its like the fan forces all the air outside and inside there's only rising heat. Put it on last night at 10C and it stayed on all night temp went to 16c inside. Trying to find someone here who does FR warranty work (prince george) , no luck so far. Im a little skeptical about the place in Penticton "its suppose to be like that" . I dont think so. Do other people w/ these units get adequite heat?
Some info. The fans are on a common shaft motor. There is an "inside fan" on one end and an "outside fan" (for the combustion air) on the other. There is just the single motor.
Fan speed is determined by battery voltage. Low voltage = low fan (and higher than normal exhaust temperatures).
It can also be slowed by lack of lubrication, bug nests in the outside fan cage, and overheating motor. If the motor slows enough the sail switch will not close and the furnace will not run at all.
Air velocity at the outlet is a function of the duct work. Crushed hoses, disconnected hoses, separated plenum can cause lack of airflow from an otherwise perfectly health heater.
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
The sail switch to ensure airflow before opening the gas valve, is it only on the combustion side? Is it possible that the fan for the room airflow is loose on the shaft and not delivering proper airflow?
The sail switch to ensure airflow before opening the gas valve, is it only on the combustion side? Is it possible that the fan for the room airflow is loose on the shaft and not delivering proper airflow?
Dave
I believe the sail switch is on the room side. I would think the blower has to be on to cool the combustion chamber (that is how the house side air gets hot).
This is why I think it is a distribution problem and not a furnace problem. My guess is a torn or disconnected heat duct.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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