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Old 12-05-2011, 04:04 PM   #1
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Furnace Problems in 2008 Rockwood

I've got a 2008 Rockwood, 8280SS, 5th Wheel that's developed a problem with the furnace. Out of the blue the furnace no longer will stay on. It starts, lights, and runs for about 8 min with nice hot air and then shuts off. It will come back on only if I change the switch from Furnace to Off and then back to Furnace OR change the Temp Setting all the way up to 90 and then back down again. Changing the Temp Setting just slightly upward a little at a time doesn't do it. While camping a couple of weeks ago on a cold night I continued to change the Furnace/Off switch but it didn't stay on. The next night I chnged the switch a couple of times and it finally worked fine all night the 2nd night. I noticed my rig doesn't have a Suburban Thermostat but is a Duo Therm by Dometic. I'm making an assumption that my problem is with my Thermostat (or one of the switches) and not the furnace itself since it starts, lights and produces hot air for awhile. Any suggested solutions? I just joined this Forum so forgive me if this is a repeat from the past.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:24 PM   #2
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By your description,I too am thinking the problem is in your thermostat, though you may have a whacky hi-limit switch. It'll be interesting to find out what is causing your headache...Let us know when you find the fix.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:03 PM   #3
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I was just now talking with a neighbor here at the RV park and he was experiencing the same symptoms with his furnace as you described. It ended up being his furnace wasn't bolted down at the factory resulting in the heat runs shaking loose of the pluntum/bonnet. The heat from the furnace never made it out of the furnace area overheating the hi-limit switch and shutting it down.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:15 PM   #4
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Very Interesting

Oh, Wow, that's interesting. Now for my question as a rookie at something like this. Do I access the furnace from underneath to see if my furnace too has been loose all this time and the connection to the heat runs are no longer secure? I've been pretty successful at fixing minor "stuff" on this camper and would like to give this a try first if it's something I could do. Thanks very much for your fast replies.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:25 PM   #5
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Sorry, I have no idea where your furnace is or how it's accessed. Look around, I bet you can figure it out....or....someone with a 2008 Rockwood, 8280SS can give you direction. If all else fails, give Forrest River Support a call in the morning and they'll help you out.

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Old 12-05-2011, 07:40 PM   #6
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Your Answer Made the Light Go On

Boyd, as soon as I read your last reply about looking around I believe the obvious was right in front of me. My furnace on this Rockwood model is directly below my stove/range. I'll bet I'll have the access to my furnace that I need by pulling out the stove/range. I'll confirm this before I jump into that but appreciate your phone numbers for FR Customer Spt. I believe this is certainly worth looking into (and less expensive) before I go replacing my thermostat. Thanks again!
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:04 PM   #7
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You should have some limited access to the furnace by removing the intake grill below the oven.

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Old 12-05-2011, 08:48 PM   #8
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I had a similar problem with the furnace in my Wildcat two years ago and after replacing the thermostat the problem was resolved.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:11 PM   #9
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Replacing My Thermostat

I'm leaning toward replacing my thermostat. Are there digital models out there that will easily replace my analog stat? If so (or not) where's the best place to look for a replacement stat, either digital or analog, Lowe's, Home Depot, other??
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:42 PM   #10
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A simple search on thermostat, on any RV forum, will get you lots of info and pics.
RV.net has the best info on thermostat upgrades, Hunter being the most popular.
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:53 PM   #11
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Decided not to go with a digital replacement thermostat since wiring is different and I'm not the world's best when it comes to that stuff. Anyway, got a replacemnt analog thermostat, same brand, same wiring. Changed it out and now the furnace comes on, no hot/warm air and shuts down in about 6 min. Same problem as before except I'm no longer getting hot/warm air during the time it runs for about 6 min. Any thoughts or suggestions??
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:07 PM   #12
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Now it sounds like its not lighting...does the stove light? If your propane bottles have been shut off, open them very, very slowly and see if the furnace will light then.

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Old 12-20-2011, 01:43 PM   #13
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Propane Answer

Propane has always been on (I hadn't turned it off). I don't believe I even hear the clicking sound for it to light now whereas before it did.
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckeyeByBirth View Post
I'm leaning toward replacing my thermostat. Are there digital models out there that will easily replace my analog stat? If so (or not) where's the best place to look for a replacement stat, either digital or analog, Lowe's, Home Depot, other??

Research this in detail. I don't think all furnaces are compatable with digital thermos unless you also do a circuit board upgrade on the heater to be compatable with the digital thermo. And the wiring is also more involved.
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckeyeByBirth View Post
Propane has always been on (I hadn't turned it off). I don't believe I even hear the clicking sound for it to light now whereas before it did.

Recheck your wire connections to the thermostat. Sounds like you got the blower wires hooked up but maybe the burner control wires fell off?
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:44 PM   #16
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Burner Control Wire

Would the burner control wire you're speaking of be the one for "furnace?" These wires (not very big) are very touchy when feeding them into the "hole" on the thermo to then tighten them down. I'll check that wire but wanted to doublecheck back with you to make sure I'm concentrating on the correct wire. All other functions seem to be working, i.e., fan, fan hi/lo, and cool.

Thanks fro your input!
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Old 12-22-2011, 11:59 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BuckeyeByBirth View Post
Would the burner control wire you're speaking of be the one for "furnace?" These wires (not very big) are very touchy when feeding them into the "hole" on the thermo to then tighten them down. I'll check that wire but wanted to doublecheck back with you to make sure I'm concentrating on the correct wire. All other functions seem to be working, i.e., fan, fan hi/lo, and cool.

Thanks fro your input!

Sound like a possibility. That wire may have a contact problem or fell off completely when you remounted to the wall. Good Luck!
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:23 AM   #18
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just some thoughts shared

Burner ignites - goes out after a few seconds


Possible causes:
  • low gas pressure
  • intake or exhaust vents obstructed
  • dirty burner
  • electrode(s) out of adjustment, dirty, or defective
  • bad control board
Definitions:
sail switch - micro switch with an arm that extends into the blower air stream which closes when the blower reaches approximately 75% of its rated speed. Also called an air prover switch.
limit switch - safety switch, a normally closed switch that opens if it gets to hot, opening turns off power to the gas valve and ignitor board
fan switch - a normally open switch that closes at a preset temperature, causes the furnace to run for a short time after the thermostat opens, allowing the furnace to cool down. time delay relay - same function as fan switch, only has its own heater, also used instead of a thermostat relay in newer models.
ignitor electrode - similar to a spark plug, 2 versions, 3 probe (remote sense) or 2 probe (local sense.)
ignition control board - when powered, initiates gas valve opening and spark sequence which lasts approximately 7 seconds. Older models are 1 try, thermostat must be cycled off for at least 10 seconds before another ignition cycle is attempted. Newer boards are 3 try, will attempt to ignite 3 times at approximately 60 second intervals.
Some furnaces now come with a fan control ignition board. Fan control boards will shut the blower down if ignition does not occur after 3 attempts. Some models will shut down the blower and wait an hour and recycle, if ignition does not occur the furnace is then shut down. Older DSI furnaces, with some exceptions can be upgraded to fan control. See Fan 50 Plus.
gas pressure - LP gas pressure must be 11" of water column (6.25 oz per sq. in.), checking and adjusting requires a manometer.

Marksrv.com rv furnace troubleshooting
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