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Old 09-11-2016, 01:21 PM   #11
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Check the circuit breaker switch.

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Old 09-11-2016, 01:55 PM   #12
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The sail switch is a safety feature that will prevent the furnace from lighting ( opening propane valve and activating igniter ) if the fan is not moving sufficient air volume. If the propane solenoid is activating the sail switch is working.


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Old 09-11-2016, 02:07 PM   #13
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There does not appear to be any other shutoff between the tank and the furnace gas valve. When you watch the process with the front grill off the furnace, you can hear the gas valve click open and I would assume the gas should be flowing.

I've seen such behavior from home furnaces -- when the gas supply line has air pockets -- but after you repeat the process a few times -- and the air is bled out and they will usually light.

Following the click of the gas valve, the ignitor immediately starts arcing across the electrode gap -- very clearly visible through the window. Its as if no gas is getting through the valve to the burner.

It's important to note that there is NO smell of gas at the furnace during these tests, but you can turn on the stove burners right above the furnace and you get that mercaptan smell immediately. As I said earlier, the stove works fine.

As far as an obstructed orifice -- that could be -- but this is a brand new unit and the only firing of the furnace would have been at the factory or by the dealer's tech who went through it prior to delivery.

I'm reluctant to take the unit apart and inspect for things like a broken electrode on the ignitor or an obstructed orifice because the unit is new. Don't want to be accused of causing the problem myself.

Thanks again...This is quite the mystery.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:12 PM   #14
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I thought of that -- but both the gas valve and the blower seem to be getting power. I would assume that all would be on the same breaker.
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:09 PM   #15
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We bought a new 2016 Rockwood 21SS Roo this past March. I wanted to sleep in it in the driveway one night to check things out. The furnace quit in the middle of the night and would not re-light. It was to cold to stay in the camper so I went inside and would look at it in the morning. Had plenty of LP, the fuse were all good and no breakers were tripped. Call my dealer and he said to bring it in and they would look at it right away. They pulled the furnace out and put it on the techs bench and ran some test. The problem was a "High Limit Switch". They had one in stock and replaced it and reinstalled it in the camper and I was out of there in 1.5 hours max! Have not had to use it this summer but have turned it on a number of times to make sure its working!
Dave & Elaine
Brookfield, WI
2016 Rockwood, ROO 21SS, pulled by a 2015 F150 XT, Super Cab, 2.7L Eco Boost, with 3.55 axle. Electric 6-speed auto trans w/tow mod. Tow package & integrated trailer brake. 7,600 lb. tow capacity. 145 wheel base. Equalizer 4 point W/D hitch.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:51 AM   #16
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Excellent information. Thanks for the input.
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Old 09-12-2016, 03:55 PM   #17
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I think I figured Out My Furnace Problem

You will recall that I'd tried to get the furnace on my brand Palomini to work. I made at least a dozen attempts to light it up, but nothing seemed to work. Fan worked, ignitor worked, gas valve clicked open -- but no heat.

Well...Someone here suggested that I just keep trying. And I did. Finally after about 2 dozen attempts to start it, it mysteriously lit and made heat. I shut it down and restarted it. Worked like a charm. I went through this routine six times --and every time, it started just like it is supposed to.

I can only imagine that, as the poster suggested, there was a large air bubble in the gas supply line -- because it is working just fine now.

Thanks to all who offered their advice.

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furnace, light

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