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Old 11-22-2014, 02:25 PM   #21
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There might be a relay involved in the control board that switches from 12 to 120v, that runs off of 12 volt. Just a guess what model is it? There has to be relay somewhere that tells it when to switch. being they all switch automatically when you plug in or unplug as long as your switch is on. The relay would control the gas valve and ignitor. Just a guess but can't tell how else it would know...Good luck
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:35 PM   #22
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No the fridge isn't in a slide. And the heater is the only thing I have unhooked and the fuse didn't blow.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #23
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The heater is easy to change and it is also a common thing to go out on the fridg. You can pull yours up out of the heat exchanger and look on it to see what wattage is stamped on it. There may also be a part number stamped on it. Also they are easy to find.
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud yapster View Post
The heater is easy to change and it is also a common thing to go out on the fridg. You can pull yours up out of the heat exchanger and look on it to see what wattage is stamped on it. There may also be a part number stamped on it. Also they are easy to find.
Can you pull it out from the outside access?
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:01 PM   #25
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Can you pull it out from the outside access?
If it is the AC Heater you will need to remove the fridge from the cabinet to work on it. Bit of a hassle and involves disconnecting the gas line.

Might need to bring it in for service.

Just so I am clear, the fuse that is blowing is in the control panel located under the plastic cover accessed from outside the camper.
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Old 11-28-2014, 04:24 PM   #26
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Here's a good source of information on troubleshooting your RV refrigerator.


RV Refrigerator Videos


Pay close attention to his Heater Elements Part II video. He said he received a batch of bad elements that would work but did not have enough wattage to operate the refrigerator properly. Check out your replacement element before you install it.


The 120 volt heating element in our Sunseeker is accessible from the outside access panel. You don't have to remove the refrigerator to get to it.


The 120 volt heater is visible in Herk's photos, the fourth and fifth from the top. It's the silver rod that goes into the vertical tube on the right. The element has two black wires. Be sure 120 volt power has been off for a while because it can be very hot.
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Old 11-28-2014, 05:07 PM   #27
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That is correct, the black thing stuck in the side of the flue is the heating element. However it "turns the corner" and goes downward for several inches making it (I would assume) impossible to remove without disassembly of the flue stack.

I have never done a replacement, so I could easily be wrong.
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:36 AM   #28
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Correction: You DO have to remove the refrigerator to get the 120 volt electric heater element out. I found the following web page that describes the removal and replacement.


Dometic DM2652 RV Refrigerator Repair - Faulty Electric Heater Element


The heater element is in a tube that is attached to the side of the flue and you simply slide it up to remove it, but it's covered by a sheet metal shroud that can only be removed with the refrigerator out of the cabinet. The RV Refrigerator Video I referenced in post #26 showed it being simply lifted out of a refrigerator on the shop floor. It did not show how you got to that point, and did not mention that you cannot get the shroud off with the refrigerator in place.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:16 AM   #29
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I didn't have to remove my fridg to replace the heating element, I was able to get the metal covering back enough to slide the heater up and out and then slide the new heater in and put the metal back in place. Maybe yours is different but I'd try before I'd remove the fridg.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:40 PM   #30
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Kitchen fuse keeps blowing a 15 amp fuse on my 2013 wild cat sterling edition. any suggestions ?
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