Gas Water Heater takes at least 5 tries to light

[wmtire]

OK Great, those pics tell it all. You have the Suburban SWDEL model.


This FAQ thread will explain the operation of the SWDE and your SWDEL (two switches to control the 120 volt AC electric heating element) models electric heating element...as well as the propane/DSI and what the fault lights means.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html


We do need to troubleshoot why the ignitor is not igniting properly and will do this in another post.

[wmtire]

You see the orangish wire down at the bottom left (correction, bottom right) of your water heater. That is the spark ignitor wire, that comes from your module board to the spark ignitor/electrode assembly. It has a push on connection to the Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) and to the electrode assembly. First off make sure this connection is firmly pushed in place to the electrode. See this post



http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post2088024


and this thread:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262

[pmsherman]

The gas explosion you heard is an indication of a serious problem in the burner area of the water heater. It could easily be a problem with the spark igniter, mixing tube where propane and air mix before the burner area, an issue with the propane orifice, or a problem with the pressure at which the propane is being delivered.


This is nothing to mess around with. I'd very strongly recommend getting a service technician to check it out before you end up loosing the rig and possibly someone's life.


Phil

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by pmsherman

The gas explosion you heard is an indication of a serious problem in the burner area of the water heater. It could easily be a problem with the spark igniter, mixing tube where propane and air mix before the burner area, an issue with the propane orifice, or a problem with the pressure at which the propane is being delivered.


This is nothing to mess around with. I'd very strongly recommend getting a service technician to check it out before you end up loosing the rig and possibly someone's life.


Phil

The gas explosion is probably due to the igniter not lighting the propane and it builds up. If you try to reignite right away, you add more propane to the mix and there isn't sufficient time for it to dissipate. When the igniter finally catches it....WOOOOSH ! big flame.

[DustinMobley232]

Originally Posted by wmtire

You see the orangish wire down at the bottom left of your water heater. That is the spark ignitor wire, that comes from your module board to the spark ignitor/electrode assembly. It has a push on connection to the Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) and to the electrode assembly. First off make sure this connection is firmly pushed in place to the electrode. See this post



http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post2088024


and this thread:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262

You mean Bottom Right, correct?

Also, when using electric option, will the batteries be sufficient or I have to be plugged into 30amp?

[DustinMobley232]

Originally Posted by wmtire

You see the orangish wire down at the bottom left of your water heater. That is the spark ignitor wire, that comes from your module board to the spark ignitor/electrode assembly. It has a push on connection to the Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) and to the electrode assembly. First off make sure this connection is firmly pushed in place to the electrode. See this post



http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post2088024


and this thread:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262

What is funny now that you mention it, the time it did light, I had messed around with the ignitor in the bottom right and corner. I took off the black plug and put back on.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

What is funny now that you mention it, the time it did light, I had messed around with the ignitor in the bottom right and corner. I took off the black plug and put back on.

Maybe clean up that connection and go thru the links wmtire sent you, it's good material.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

You mean Bottom Right, correct?

Also, when using electric option, will the batteries be sufficient or I have to be plugged into 30amp?

YEP, bottom right, as you stated.


Electric only works off of 120 volt AC. It's explained fully in the very first link I sent you. It's long reading, but you need to understand how it works if you want to really understand what could be wrong.


This link has a lot of troubleshooting on the gas side. Problem is, I never really finished all of the procedures and stopped right at where you are having the problem.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262


But it will show you the connections and you can see if they are tight. Sometimes it just as simple as pushing the spade wire connections (or tightening the spade connectors) as per post #15 in the link above

[DustinMobley232]

Originally Posted by wmtire

YEP, bottom right, as you stated.


Electric only works off of 120 volt AC. It's explained fully in the very first link I sent you. It's long reading, but you need to understand how it works if you want to really understand what could be wrong.


This link has a lot of troubleshooting on the gas side. Problem is, I never really finished all of the procedures and stopped right at where you are having the problem.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262


But it will show you the connections and you can see if they are tight. Sometimes it just as simple as pushing the spade wire connections (or tightening the spade connectors) as per post #15 in the link above

Will do. Appreciate it. As soon as there is daylight will start troubleshooting with what you said and provided and fill you in. Thank You.

[RandK-M]

I had a similar problem with the same model water heater last year. I don't know if it was 5 times tempting to start, but it would try a few times and end up stuck on DSI fault. Anyway, I removed the spark electrode connected to the orange wire with the one hex screw as shown in the photos in the previous posts. Once removed I cleaned the contact surfaces where it mounts and also where the spark jumps to. Once I put it back together, I haven't had a problem since in almost two seasons. It was about a 10 minute job.

Might not solve your particular problem, but it's worth a try.

Ray

[DustinMobley232]

Originally Posted by wmtire

You see the orangish wire down at the bottom left of your water heater. That is the spark ignitor wire, that comes from your module board to the spark ignitor/electrode assembly. It has a push on connection to the Direct Spark Ignitor (DSI) and to the electrode assembly. First off make sure this connection is firmly pushed in place to the electrode. See this post



http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post2088024


and this thread:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1827262

It is connected firmly. Took off and put back on.

[llr]

If it stays on manually lighting it. Then I would think it needs to be the gap between the electrodes although it looks ok in the picture, or the control board, assuming the transformer is on it.

The control board has to be getting a signal from the electrode or the gas would shut off.

Lighting with a lighter is not an option as you would need to do it every time it needs to heat the water. I have done it with mid trip failures, then replaced the board when I got home.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

It is connected firmly. Took off and put back on.

Well that's the easier stuff to check. Are you hearing any kind of rapid clicking at the electrode when you turn on the inside dsi/propane switch........assuming the water is cool enough in the tank for the thermostat to close to start the ignition process.

[5picker]

At this point I'd suspect the control board is bad.

I believe you said it did spark one time out of those 20 or so attempts.
It should spark multiple times, every time it needs to fire up the burner. (as long as the conditions are met wmtire mentioned)

Once the burner is lit, that center spark electrode sends a signal back to the control board (by turning red hot from the flame) saying the water heater has ignited and stops the sparking.

I can't remember if it is still under warranty but if not, look into control boards made by Dinosaur Electronics. They build good stuff.

[Beardface]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

The Gas Water Heater on my 2019 EPro 19FBS takes at least 5 times switching on/off before it will finally light. Is this normal? Think I am just going to start carrying a BIC flex wand lighters, and light it that way.
On another note, we have never been able to get the water heater water hot using the Electric option. Anyone have this issue?

Mine was doing that, i just adjusted the ignition probes per the manufacturers spec and has never been a problem since, This was on a new leftover Wildwood, and i really did not want to haul it back to the dealer

[kwindrem]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

The Gas Water Heater on my 2019 EPro 19FBS takes at least 5 times switching on/off before it will finally light. Is this normal? Think I am just going to start carrying a BIC flex wand lighters, and light it that way.
On another note, we have never been able to get the water heater water hot using the Electric option. Anyone have this issue?

I have a similar trailer (2019 Geo Pro 19QB) and began having the same problem with it's water heater. It would usually light after a couple of retrys with the same bang/whoosh you hear.

I first cleaned the fire box as mentioned here without improvement.

I found a service manual on line and checked the alignment of the igniter. It was not correct and made the adjustment only to have the problem get worse! It now would never light.

On the assumption that my unit needed a different position, I bent the bracket holding the igniter so it was closer to the flame. It now starts on the first or second click every time it starts.

As far as the electric element goes: 30 minutes is not long enough to heat the water completely. You'll need to run on electric for a 45-60 minutes depending on the temperature of your cold water.

If it's not heating at all, there are actually four switches: the two already mentioned plus the high temperature cutout (ones for electric and gas are independent) and the AC circuit breaker in the power panel. And you also need shore power. The trailer's inverter will not run the water heater.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by kwindrem

I have a similar trailer (2019 Geo Pro 19QB) and began having the same problem with it's water heater. It would usually light after a couple of retrys with the same bang/whoosh you hear.

I first cleaned the fire box as mentioned here without improvement.

I found a service manual on line and checked the alignment of the igniter. It was not correct and made the adjustment only to have the problem get worse! It now would never light.

On the assumption that my unit needed a different position, I bent the bracket holding the igniter so it was closer to the flame. It now starts on the first or second click every time it starts.

As far as the electric element goes: 30 minutes is not long enough to heat the water completely. You'll need to run on electric for a 45-60 minutes depending on the temperature of your cold water.

If it's not heating at all, there are actually four switches: the two already mentioned plus the high temperature cutout (ones for electric and gas are independent) and the AC circuit breaker in the power panel. And you also need shore power. The trailer's inverter will not run the water heater.

30 mins is all it should take to heat the water on electric . if yours takes longer you may have a issue . I know mine is ready in 20

[tc cruiser]

Originally Posted by DustinMobley232

The Gas Water Heater on my 2019 EPro 19FBS takes at least 5 times switching on/off before it will finally light. Is this normal? Think I am just going to start carrying a BIC flex wand lighters, and light it that way.
On another note, we have never been able to get the water heater water hot using the Electric option. Anyone have this issue?

So Dustin, what did you find to be your problem?
TC

[mharrel]

This is really a simple diagnosis. If it clicks, it's getting power. If it lights with the Bic, it's getting gas. The problem is the igniter--get a new one. $15 on Amazon.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by wmtire

The cause of the propane not lighting could be caused by several issues. The first one is a clogged burner flue not allowing the gas to get to the ignitor sufficiently. Spiders and other creatures love to nest in the flue. They make special brushes that are flexible to clean the flue, as well as sometimes you can squirt some compressed air if it's not too bad. The brushes work better.

Another thing is the spark ignitor is out of alignment with the flue or the ignition gap is too wide which creates a weak spark.

Can you take a pic of this water heater and post it here. That will help tremendously in the troubleshooting

That was my problem and after carefully bending the igniter closer to the burner, it lights first time, every time.