Ok, I've done the "search" thing, looked at old post, reviewed old videos. I would love to have a simple diagram of where to put the six wires from the old thermostat to which terminals on the new honeywell. I will try to attach two photo's of the old wires. The new stat has: B O G Y W not used R/RC jumpered.
Hope the pic worked. I am always amazed at the knowledge base on this forum!
well this sort of thing might be done, but its not what is done on a regular basis. the honeywell is made for a 24 volt ac "household" style system while the rv either has a dometic or coleman ac. the coleman get 12v dc from the furnace while the dometic generates its own control power from the lower board on at least the earlier models.
Will try to post photos again. I may need to research HOW to post pic's. I have the wires connected except 1, a red (splices to gray). Coleman had red wires labeled W1 (from heater), has power all the time, and the other red (gray ) w3 don't know where to put it in the Honeywell. However I put the gray wire the fan runs constantly, even on "auto". Seems with all wires put somewhere, fan on=high, fan auto = low speed. I'll try to post pic's
Did take photos, been trying to send them from my phone to computer so I can add tp post. News! With all "EXCEPT" red/gray wire hooked to new thermostat all seems to work. Fan runs on High but will shut off when temp gets to preset. Evidently the r/g wire is low speed fan. I can live without if unless someone can tell me where to put that wire.
Not sure what an RTHL111B is. I googled it but couldn't really find a description.
I just installed a RTH111 this weekend. It's a non-programable, battery powered T-stat that is designed for a single fan speed. However, I installed a small single pole double throw (SPDT) switch to allow me to pick the fan speed (high or low). I'm attaching pics and a wiring diagram showing the Coleman Mach wiring and the RTH111 wiring.
In the 1st pic, on the right, I had cut out the two pieces of plastic in the "vent" (you can see them in the vent on the far right). However, I ended up having to also cut out plastic all the way to the end of the Electric/gas switch opening to allow the wiring to fit. If you don't want fan speed control, just pick high or low and wire it's wire to the G connection.
Basically:
- Red is power (+12VDC) - feeds the next 4 colors listed below when the T-stat says to; also powers the T-stat if not battery powered.
- White is to the furnace
- Yellow is to the AC
- Gray is the AC fan low speed
- Green is the AC fan high speed
- Blue is ground. If your T-stat is battery powered, you don't need this. If you T-stat is not battery powered, you will need this. (But if it's a 24VDC T-stat, you're in trouble.)
The SPDT switch is very small and I suspect it's not too reliable. I may end up installing a larger rocker switch in the wall next to the T-stat instead. We'll see how well the little guy holds up.
nicely done. the dpdt switch should be heavy enough...the load is light. the yellow is the compressor basically. staying with the battery sounds safest. if its not programmable, whats the advantage over the stock thermostat?
if its not programmable, whats the advantage over the stock thermostat?
The stock one isn't digital, it's analog of some kind. The old Suburban's were bimetallic. Not sure what/how the Coleman Mach works, it's got a slide thing on it.
Digital holds the temperature setpoint better. Plus it reads out the temperature digitally.
ok...the coleman on auto should run on high till it gets close to temp and then automatically switch to a quieter low speed, at least thats dometics function. thats a nice caveat. i dont know what you might be sacrificing with your move to the new control.
ok...the coleman on auto should run on high till it gets close to temp and then automatically switch to a quieter low speed, at least thats dometics function. thats a nice caveat. i dont know what you might be sacrificing with your move to the new control.
I got no operating manual with the Coleman Mach, but I haven't found anything on the web that says it will switch to a quieter speed close to the setpoint. There's actually very little difference between the fan speeds, you can hardly tell the difference.
Here's a diagram that I drew and used. Only drawback is the batteries power the unit, not the 24 volts that a residential home supplies, thus when the batteries go then your system doesn't work. However I can go through a whole season on the batteries in the unit
Hope this helps and I hope I uploaded it correctly!
Ronzo
I had mentioned using the batteries as a power source being a drawback for the instalation of a digital thermostat. I meant that for information purposes only and should have used "other wording". Realisticly I have found no drawbacks doing this install and have used this procedure on my past 3 units,
Thanks
forum!
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