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Old 02-28-2015, 11:54 PM   #21
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There way larger on the inside 6 gallons of milk on the bottom if you so desire.
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:57 PM   #22
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There way larger on the inside 6 gallons of milk on the bottom if you so desire.
Certainly something to look forward to.
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:25 PM   #23
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If you do replace with a residential unit just buy an "inverter" so you could run off of 12VDC later if you need.

What ever you do don't bypass the thermocouple as you could over heat and cause a fire.
Good luck
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:37 PM   #24
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I broke down and called a technician. His immediate opinion was my cooling unit has a blockage. The unit will work fine for at least one cycle on either AC or LP then stops cooling completely. He said it was a particulate in the ammonia/water mix that would get stuck and cause the blockage. New unit costs around $1400 from him. Not entirely convinced yet. Maybe I'm just stubborn. The fridge has been in operation for over 2 1/2 years without a single problem. It's just hard for me to believe that all of a sudden a particle found it's way into or finally dislodged in a closed system.

When I finally throw in the towel it looks like I'll be going residential. How do I cap off the gas line since it will no longer be used?
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:42 PM   #25
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Look at these videos, might help with your issue......

RV Refrigerator Videos
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:11 PM   #26
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dude...just do the direct electric trick i posted. you can have a "floating blockage", but they wont do the same thing everytime. what happened to the 110 fridge home depot idea?
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:24 PM   #27
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dude...just do the direct electric trick i posted. you can have a "floating blockage", but they wont do the same thing everytime. what happened to the 110 fridge home depot idea?
The wife doesn't like the hot wire idea. I'm all for it but even if I made it safe if there truly is a blockage it wouldn't make the fridge reliable. That's why I'm looking at a 110v residential. "official" diagnostics by a service tech would cost me $200+ so I figure save the money and put it toward a reliable fridge with a warranty.
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:26 PM   #28
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Look at these videos, might help with your issue......

RV Refrigerator Videos
Thanks Fonzie. I've been watching Mr. Ford's videos for a week. That's where my suspicion comes in about needing a whole new cooling unit.
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Old 03-01-2015, 02:31 PM   #29
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the direct electric without the thermostat is how you test the core...im just suggesting to test the core...that 300+ fridge is a great fix if you dont need the lp..
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:18 PM   #30
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the direct electric without the thermostat is how you test the core...im just suggesting to test the core...that 300+ fridge is a great fix if you dont need the lp..
That's a very good suggestion. So I would hard wire a male 120V plug onto the connectors of the element? Does it matter which wire to which wire? There aren't any markings I can see that points to the hot wire on the element side.
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